I had good experience with PSWpower. I bought Tongsheng TSDZ2B kit from them and the included battery performs well, seems to have the advertised capacity. Their support was good. For me the key point was that they ship from EU (warehouse in France) so fast delivery and no additional costs...
I just noticed one of the gaskets in the suspension hinge has broken. These gaskets are made of aluminium and seem to be very fragile. I was very careful not to overtorque them when assembling the bike so I used calibrated torque wrench set to 12Nm. Seems like the material fatigue. Thankfully...
correct
you should not need using bearing press to insert bearings into zero stack headset cups, usually they fit without any resistance
preloading the cap that hard may lead to pulling star nut indeed. using this much force should not be necessary and it won't solve this issue. this is a...
I use BESST. I have 48V system, which is originally 36V engine reprogrammed by SZZT to 48V firmware, so Go app will identify it as 36V using serial number and will update FW to 36V version. This will immediately cause engine error (too high battery voltage) requiring to manually flash 48V...
I do use 12 speed Shimano and as stated above, it takes time to setup and is fragile, ie. once tuned right, will detune fast. The region where downshifting and upshifting is perfect and there's no noticeable chain rubbing on bigger cogs is very narrow. I like having my drivetrain operating...
I like experimenting and I'm curious to try out the 9-50t cassettes and "mullet drivetrain" setups like SRAM RD/Shimano cassette (because have lots of Shimano cassettes and they are cheap). I guess not using dedicated SRAM cassette will likely wipe out many T-Type benefits?
Hey, I've seen this question asked before but I can't find any answers: has anyone tried installing SRAM T-Type (Transmission) drivetrain on CEF50? Did you have any issues with installation, tuning?
I'm not really happy with the way my cable-actuated Shimano HG+ drivetrain behaves, it seems...
there is none, I investigated this area. many folks will tell that with good riding habits (decrease tension on pedals while shifting) none is needed in torque-sensing engine. the problem I see is that the engine shutoff isn't immediate after you stop pushing on pedals and there is a slight...
So eventually I finished my conversion by gluing both top and bottom assemblies into the headtube with Loctite 638. I couldn't find lots of resources covering use of cyanoacrylates with carbon fiber, except for one article by one Hambini, where he claims that glueing the bearing cups is now...
probably they put BT antenna in the display so that it's not enclosed by the carbon on all sides. anyway, it's not like the carbon shell makes good quality faraday cage. first, graphite is not as good a conductor as metals, second, the fibers are sandwitched with resin which increases the...
1. There is no "canonical" way, there are some hacks documented in the forum
2. The engine provides 12V/0.5A via the light cable, so the choice is limited to lights < 6W. You can hack a circuit which will use the light cable to switch main battery output to the light via optocoupler, I...
Yup, there was upgrade prompt. With the caveats that the version check relied on engine SN, which in our case led to downloading 36V FW version instead of 48V. Anyway, IDK if Bafang even officially releases 48V FW for M820 or if this is hacked by rewriting some registers with values for 48V in...
Maybe you could ask Linda if she can share Release Notes for this firmware as well? Would be interesting to know what was changed in this version. If only Bagang publishes this data...
tip: I was able to squeeze the display cable through the cable guide hole without cutting guide side after grinding the hole a bit wider with 6mm burr. this way the guide cover will not flex under dropper cable pressure when turning handlebar to the right
correct
yup, without any effort, the glue wasn't strong
there is no noticeable play on the handlebar while riding nor in the bearings. the only real problem is that the bowls can be removed with ease without any tools.
no resistance at all, the lower bowl falls out on its own, see New...
I have this idea regarding loose bearing cups: I could take strips of carbon fiber cloth (or even CF prepeg) and glue it inside the headtube openings with resin or structural adhesive like 3M DP190, maybe even using a latex baloon to ensure proper pressure for bonding to the frame. This will...
the good
carving holes in the frame went without issues
existing cable housings are long enough so that I don't have to replace them
so far no creaking or knocking on impact, even though I replaced only the upper headset assembly with Nukeproof
the bad
my worries about loose cups were valid...