have a look at my solution to the sensor position issue in this post SZZS specific CEF50-main thread (initial builds and troubleshooting related only) (strong neodymium magnet glued to the rotor at proper place). The magnet is 8x3-3 variant from this offer 1.79￡ 3% OFF|2 50 pcs Strong Magnets...
my investigation into battery level indicator jumping by large values continues... I see the contacts of battery XT30 connector are covered by some kind of dark patina. They are supposed to be gold plated so I don't quite understand why this happens but who knows, maybe they are the culprit. The...
mine was aluminum one. I'm very doubtful about plastic cup, this would probably bend flex and break when tightening the preload screw. Maybe you've mistaken it with the info about the cone, which is plastic (PTFE)?
As a curiosity, I just used a contraption like in the pic to have a leisure trip with my 4yrs old daughter. Quite ridable setup, she loved it. Now she demands that I teach her to send jumps and drops on her Woom 3.
are they 3d printed? could you share the CAD files for them or describe where you sourced the chain guide and how you adapted it? I just dropped the chain for the first time a moment ago...
I have ongoing discussion about this issue with Jean, she forwarded this to technical staff and I'm awaiting their response. I need yet to see if the firmware she sent helped with E09, so far I didn't have a chance to put this into action.
I also experienced E09 2 times so far. Both happened after steep ascent, 2nd time in B mode, soon after displayed battery level drop occured. I've checked a moment ago that upgrading firmware to version CRX30PC4813E102004.3 I got from Jean today didn't solve the battery level issue, dunno if...
Thanks, could you elaborate on "my battery drop quality when I turn lazy", I couldn't quite get it and this sounds interesting.
Just to explain, this was my one and only ride in B mode, with the intention to record the movie of my battery level indicator dropping by large values as I wrote few...
folks, my evening flash ride, 25km; 500m elev. gain almost entirely in B mode, 22% of 480Wh battery left. seems like it's eating the battery like a hungry hog. does this battery consumption look ok to you? I was hoping I could squeeze more from this battery...
for the time being I put it back in but I'm planning to replace it with Nukeproof ZS56 headset waiting in my parts bin for a suitable moment to make cut outs in the head tube sides
fortunately (?) I didn't have to as it fell out on its own.
according to the docs loctite 603 is for glueing metal to metal (netting or polymerization is initiated by presence of metal ions), so this might be the reason why it became loose so easily with my top cup. I think trying to delicately...
yup, same here. 1mm spacer (4x0.25mm) helped but it still becomes a bit loose after day of jumps. I have a hypothesis that this is caused by the fact the top race is made from PTFE which has very low friction compared to the usual metal ones and allows for minor movements even when tightened to...
on my frame the top cup indeed bears marks of glue, however the general loosness and knocking in the headset caused that the cup became loose and falls out without any special treatment. so you know, try jumping a few times with preaload screw nod fullt tightened and it may fall out too...
I don't think this is the case. This doesn't happen during high load but rather right after high load ends, like right after steep climb in B mode. I believe the battery level was roughly static during the climb and dropped after the load ceased. TBH I've seen such behavior once with chinese...
I started noticing sudden drops in battery level on the dislay. When it happened for the first time I thought I wasn't paying attention and I wasn't sure this happened but today I'm sure I've seen battery level drops from 43% to 19% in a blink of an eye. Is this something normal or should I be...
yes, but…. this is based on idealized view that engineers design sth that is „100% accurate for 36V” while I believe the real approach is to design sth that is „~95% accurate” but cheap so that it will statistically break right after the warranty period
i'm not claiming the 36V/48V versions differ to make savings in weight. what I'm saying is that engineers sometimes make savings at the cost of equipment lifetime. in such case using 48V version will allow to improve the lifetime by ensuring higher thermal safety margins.