considering a further upgrade to my rail 9 my2020 - going to zebs from lyrik select+ as the lyriks don't seem to track or hold a line as well as i'd like and i end up on all sorts of interesting lines. although to be fair i am a 16 stone man riding a 50lb bike and what ever the lyriks get me...
anyone know what the max size One Up V2 dropper is you can fit on a the trek rail frame size large?
they used to have a really handy diagram on their site which gave all the dimension but they've now replaced it with a calculator thingy which doesn't give me the info i need.
the 170mm...
has anyone tried fitting a meg neg to the Deluxe RT3 re:aktiv / thru shaft shock that comes stock on a number of the rails?
does it fit ok? has i improved the shock?
fitted one to the super deluxe on my bronson and it improved the small bump and mid stroke support no end, hoping to replicate...
to establish if you can get full travel, take all the air out and fully compress them, the max travel should be just over the kashima logo. it's often very difficult to get the last 10-15mm of travel out of them in real world riding though unless you case something hard
if the fork isn't fully...
Rail 9 - large
swapped out the stock tyres fairly quickly - currently on magic Mary front and Eddie current rear, but tempted by an e-wild for the front
One up carbon bars - the stock alloys were overly harsh
Ditched the organic pads in the SLX brakes for metallic - better stopping power...
for those of you that have had the upgrade done, any idea how to consistently get boost feature to work? i thought it was meant to be a quick stamp on the pedal to drive you over techy stuff where you didn't want to risk a pedal strike. works sometimes, but not others?
now that the e-wilds are available in 29x2.6, any reports on how they size up in stans rims or similar 29/30mm internal diameter. currently using a magic mary 2.6 up fornt as it's my normal go to tyre, but it's a very skinny 2.6 so would like something with a a bit more volume. how do they...
problem solved, the freehub came with the wrong end cap. swapped at the LBS and now all works fine.
yes, the hanger on the rail is a sram universal hanger, designed to fit shimano and sram
converting my rail 9 from sram GX drive train to shimano XT / SLX mix (not getting on with eagle). have had a new wheel built up with microspline free hub (hope pro 4 boost / 148) as had virtually destroyed the soft as cheese bontrager rear rim anyhow. however once the cassette is fitted the...
the tyres are nice enough in the dry on more hardpack stuff, but rubbish as a front on the mud and too flimsy - running pretty low tyre pressures tubeless they just deform too much and lead to lots of rim impact (have had to replace the stock bontrager rear rim already as they are made out of...
Just take the rim strips out and use stans tape, makes it so much easier and your tyre levers shouldn’t damage the tape when fitting (least not a problem I’ve ever come across in 10+ years on tubless)
I’d probably upgrade the shock as I’m not a fan of the super deluxe (just swapped it out for an X2 on my bronson ), but depending on what lyriks you have, I’d think long and hard before swapping for the 36’s. I’ve got both, lyriks on the ebike and 36’s on the bronson. Lyriks are more comfortable...
the plastic rim strips are just a cheap & quick way of making the rims airtight at the factory do they are tubless ready. Tubless tape works just as well if you take a bit of care fitting it (5 minute job) and makes it a hell of a lot easier to get tyres on and off as the central rim well is...
it’ll definitely be the plastic rim strips. They’re hateful things. I had a similar c 40mm that there wasn’t a hope in hell I was going to get on to the rim. Since getting rid of the strips and replacing with tape I can fit tyres by hand without levers. God knows how they get them on when...
Is this on the original Bontrager rims that came on the bike? If so, do they still have the plastic rim strip inserts in them that make them tubeless ready? If so, cut them out (you can always use stans tape or similar to re-tape if you want to go tubeless) and you’ll have a far easier job...