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Since you've done 500 miles chances are you'll get another ride out of the hub (assuming it fits back together). I've been carrying a tow rope just in case :) If you switch to a 6 bolt wheel remember you'll need a magnet - apparently the Bosch 6 hole magnet works if you can't get the Orbea part...

Rapidly tapping the spanner with a small hammer and someone holding the other end was my suggestion, not beat it to death with a sledge hammer, but I deleted my post anyway to avoid any problems.

here's a video showing removal of the hub:

I read somewhere on this forum that Bosch are having issues with their latest smart system too. Might be safer to buy last years models at a discount until they sort out the bugs.

The cable routing is hilarious.

You could try something simple - unscrew the "mid cap assembly" (#8 in the link), apply some light grease, screw it back together and see how it goes. https://can.oneupcomponents.com/pages/dropper-post-v2-service-clean

Personally I don't like the trend towards bigger batteries - stay at 500 to 600Wh, keep the bike looking slimmer and keep the weight down, then if you need more capacity carry a spare.

Good decision. Nobody should accept those defects on any name brand bike and especially not on a premium priced bike.

I think those would be the MT400 if they're cup/cone and they seem to survive ok except for the freehub. The MT410 has sealed bearings afaik.

I didn't realise they used the crappo hubs on the Wild as well. Not great for the reputation of what are otherwise beautiful (and expensive) bikes.

........... be curious to see if the bearings roll smoothly and if the pawls have eaten into the hub. It would be strange to find the hub in good condition while dozens have shown heavy damage. I've ordered a new EXP microspline freehub for a spare DT Swiss wheel that I have, just in case. On...

I have the unbranded hub on my H30, but I've only done 64 kms so far. Has anyone heard of these hubs lasting for a long time or should I expect it to fail within a few hundred kilometres? I guess I'll pull it apart at 100 km and see what condition it's in.

It seems unproductive to increase suspension travel on a hardtail. If the tracks you ride on are rough enough to benefit from better forks, wouldn't you get a lot more benefit from a dual suspension bike? Maybe save you cash and keep your eye out for a deal on a dualie?

If you take the bike to a Shimano motor dealer they can update the firmware to EP8(85nm), authorised by Shimano. I had this done on my Rise before delivery.

I'm a lightweight riding on dirt or mud on dual compound Exo Maxxis dhf/dhr. 18 to 20 psi works best. If I go a few psi higher grip suffers noticeably and the ride is harsher. I'll switch to maxxgrip when these tyres wear out and maybe I can run a couple psi more?

Good to see (y) save some water for the Salmon

RRP does a good front guard that I have on our 3 bikes: RapidRacerProducts | ProGuard BOLT ON Mudhugger also has a nice looking front guard: Mudhugger EVO Bolt-On (LONG) default fitting for FOX (OPTIONS FOR ZEB, RECON, DVO AND OHLINS SEE BELOW)

Nice looking bike and riding terrain.

Mudhugger Mk 2 rear guard attaches with velcro (or zip ties) and has a front extension to protect the charge port and the linkages to an extent - also stops the rider getting a muddy bum.

No NX cassette/AXS problems on my Cube with Bosch CX, but I habitually back off pedal pressure for every gear change. I ride a lot on steep hills too.