This not always the case. If you took a pen that weighted 10lb and tried to write with it you would have very little control. It's very easy to exceed the most sensitive range even if you have very strong hands.
Not all of the energy is in being dissipated by the tires traction limit...
There is an optimum range of finger control. Pick a power level that lets you stay in that range.
Wheels and tires have a much bigger impact on how a brake feels then most people think. The flywheel effect of heavy tires, wheels and Cushcore significantly increase the braking requirements...
Looking at your voltage vs mine at similar percentages shows that they are virtually identical. Within the margin of error.
This means that the battery is suppling the same amount of energy per percentage drop and storing the same amount of total energy. The full and empty points haven't...
It's just you mind messing with you.
You lost 600 watts that you now need to make up and it feels like a wall. In reality there is no drag from the motor because it completely disengages and isn't even conected to the pedals.
voltage is voltage. percentage is a calculated value.
Battery health is a feel good metric with zero value. No battery currently used retains 100% of its health after even a couple cycles. It's a slow degradation thats a function of cycles, heat, charging and storage. A near perfect battery...
Then it would produce more friction. Instead you apply less force to the leaver to achieve the same level of friction as a smaller rotor. Energy dissipated is directly proportional to pad wear.
Another fact is that the size of a pad has no effect on braking performance. Larger pads just...
Can you full charge the battery and immediatly check the voltage in the app? I wonder if they have reduced the max voltage down from 42v max to save the battery? it should be 41.8ish fully charged.
Could you also check the voltage at a much lower state of charge like 15-20 and I will check...
Sag is important. You need it.
But you don't setup your suspension around it. Only after you set the string rate, ramp and damper settings you check to make sure it's in an acceptable range. Then if it's outside a good range you modify the other much more import settings.
Set your sag to X%...
A 220 would always be cooler and therefore have less pad wear. Given the same rotor style was used, although the difference within a good temperature window would be very small.
If you have enough leverage ratio and heat resistance, then going to a larger rotor will not stop you faster. Traction is the limiting factor.
BUT
In practice larger rotors DO stop you faster. On a DH trail with soft grippy tires and high speeds.
1. Hand pressure is reduced and the lockup...
Fork sag can vary by 10% depending on how you measure it. Standing straight up on the pedals vs full attack position. It's one of the last things you should worry.
I tune for bottom out and quality of travel, then look at sag. And yes you need sag.
300 miles seems about right.
If you want tires that last then get an eddy current. They are also reversible so you get 400+ and then rotate for 400 more. Nothing lasts as long.
Your spending too much time worrying about sag. It doesn't matter other than a check at the end to make sure you are not completely screw up with your settings.
You want the least amount of tokens you can run without bottoming. Remove a token and and air until you don't bottom out. If you...