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I jump off 10+ foot drops and am 200lbs. Bottoming out the suspension at least 100 times in the last 2 years. With a 600lb spring that's over 1800lbs on the yoke, pivots and close to 800lbs on the wheels and fork. If you drop a bike to shake off the water and it breaks, well you get the idea.

SICK! Looks way better. You should get an Sworks sticker for the downtube.

It's a 42v 4 amp output. At 115v it's less than 2 amps even after factoring in loses.

I feel that elevation is a better metric then time or distance. I'm close to 900,000 feet over the 4300 miles.

4300 miles on my kenevo. Original motor. 15+ sets of brake pads. 1 full set of bearings and a couple sets shock yoke bearings. Custom build and it's holding up great

I would look at getting a solid crown race for the fork. The split ones always seem to creek.

I'll never use it again. It's heavy and the aftermath isn't worth it.

Going to be a sweet build. All it needs is a speedi.

For my bike setup 180 lack the power to stop me, 200 work but requires too much hand force and I can feel them overload on 1 section of trail. 220 give me the best feel and more consistent braking. Better consistency leads to more confidence in where the limit is. I have experienced this on my...

During prolonged threshold braking the interface of the pad and rotor reach a temperature range that starts to decrease the friction coefficient. At this point you need to pull harder to keep the same breaking rate. Adding more pressure doesn't add a linear amount of stopping power...

Stopping distance is not just a matter of crushing the level and locking the wheel. There is a ramp in power from the hydraulic system. There is a ramp in power from the temperature rise of the pads and rotor. There is a decrease in power as gas is expelled from the pads and forms a boundary...

It's not just a physics argument. You are trying to extract maximum stopping distance in an analog system with consequences. If was as simple as can the brake produce more friction than the tire over the stopping distance, we would be done. The answer is NO, adding additional brake power...

Charge to 100 at least once every 5 charges and there is no benefits in going under 20%.

2021 Shimano Wolftooth 34 ring on stock spider.

My 34 is a tight fit. Unless you are going to a larger offset 34 is max.

You would need to de-restrict, fit road style tires and put a bigger chainring on. Even then you will get accelerated wear of the chain and cassette. Only using the small cogs on the rear wears them at a high rate. A road style ebike should have a 50 front chainring.

Again there is a range of control. If you have to drive a nail with a 50lb hammer it's hard to control. if you have a .1lb you have to swing it way to hard. There is always a sweet spot. Most times if you feel you need more power then it = more control.

Actually, my argument is that having the optimum control window will lead to the best braking in the shortest distance. Also single event, flat ground braking is not a good indication of overall performance of a braking system. The majority of my braking is at very high speed fall lines with a...

I just did 12000 feet of elevation yesterday. My hands are thrashed and I couldn't have done it with smaller rotors.

You can get a hybrid coil kit from Avalanche. It sits on top of his damper. I have one in a Boxxer and it's magical.