Yep, I’m making enough for everyone that put their hand up plus a couple of extras, we can organise a North America shipment or I can send them individually but shipping will be about $20-25USD so I makes sense to do the same as what we’re doing for the UK.
My plan is to drill and tap these holes as not everyone has the tools to do so.
Since there is adjustment in the bottom battery mount to move the battery assembly up and down the down tube and I have built adjustment into the bracket itself I believe there is enough flexibility to cater for...
Thanks Zimmerframe, this project may have been born out of boredom [emoji23].
These injuries aren’t much fun to be honest, the broken back doesn’t seem to be nearly as painful as the internal injuries. I can perform light duties but cannot lay down, I’m getting about 3 hrs sleep a night.
Ok so I’ve made a jig and can now replicate these little guys. Are we able to confirm that all 13 interested parties are happy with the product?
I will make this initial run for £30 each plus postage (or the equivalent from where you are) but after this lot I’d say the price would go up as...
Ok here’s version 2.
I decided using 6mm angle and relieving some material was the way forward.
Battery interface holes are 6.0mm to allow for some adjustment, but fits perfectly on my bike with it located centrally, using CS screws.
The bottom battery mount is adjustable up and down the down...
If the 750 uses identical part numbers for the lock mechanism I can’t see why it wouldn’t fit both. Though fitting the battery top first as you need to involves a little more faffing (bit of a wiggle and pushing the bottom in and down on an angle) it’d be nice to know the 750 drops in the same...
Possibly, there would be a few things to hash out though:
firstly I’m in Australia so logistically it may mean sending over the entire batch and having someone distribute them locally.
Secondly I agree with Fox’s earlier point regarding the thickness of material where the threaded holes are, so...
They certainly can… sorry I have not been back to this thread, I ended up waiting for and buying the new Fox proframe RS with BOA and it’s great.
However the lid was on its second ride and now I’m sidelined again with 2 broken vertebrae and some internal bruising thanks to a half Witt who left...
As I was whipping up a prototype today I noticed that none of the previously presented versions include a recess for the cables, the factory lock mechanism has a recess and I noticed a flat plate squashes the cables upon tightening, so if you’re going to have one cnc machined then I’d recommend...
Hi all,
Since my Trek Rail was new it’s always needed a bit more tension than the spec’d amount to keep it from having a slack knocking noise or a creak. Which has lead to premature bearing failure, I have replaced the bearings like for like and noticed that the lower bearing fit is quite loose...
@JP-NZ
@Slowroller
Unfortunately the proframe was the worst fitting lid of all the ones I tried.
2023 model Froframe RS is bringing a BOA tensioner which may solve fit fit issue.
@Akiwi, I totally agree, and that’s what I’d prefer, but my funny shaped melon is preventing a good fit on the regular FF lids, it seems I prefer a lid with a BOA tension system, like the Bell And Met helmets.
For what it’s worth my current lid is exactly what I want, regular full face with a...
So I’m currently in a MET Parachute FF, fits well, but it’s cracked, and not from a crash, so I’m not keen to replace like for like.
I’m seeing a lot of helmets are now becoming convertible, Bell Super DH, Super 3r, Super air R, Met parachute MCR etc and I’m wondering, how do these perform in a...