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Strange, Switches are Current rated. There is often also a Voltage marking, but for isolation, irrelevant here. Most things you experienced are completely different than what I saw. You installed the switch between +36V from the bike and the buck converter ? The commercial page of your...

This kind of adjustable mounts work very good the first 5 minutes on our MTB :-) For your original dakota mount, think the surface to the bars and the tension isn't big enough. Enjoy your new christmas present !

It's on page 2 from this tread, with pictures, for the Garmin 830. For the Garmin 1040 I had to add a stem ring to get the Garmin mount a bit higher. The Garmin Dakota doesn't seem to have a Garmin mount at the back, you will have to buy or invent something else.

This was the beginning: Ready to solder those 22AWG wires: While removing the "old" front light cable, the connector got stuck, so I had to detach the motor:

It's done. The front light (left) is now directly connected to the 36V (41V) of the battery. The small one (right) has a battery inside, will be removed or stay there as spare. Left side with BT remote for the Lupine helmet light: Right side with bell and switches for the new front light...

2.5 years ago, worked exactly how I wanted on this hardtail, didn't last very long...

I went from 165mm to 160mm to avoid pedal strikes. Didn't like it, and after a few rides I changed it back.

As a lot of the parts are made from oil, it surely is due to climate change.

Both my Garmin 830 and 1040 are set to record in Ebike profile, and automatically transfer to Strava as Emtb ride.

The Cube Stereo 140 is the version with 29" wheels, and also exists in SL, TM, AT,.. versions. But I don't think they're available in size XL at the moment.

Is there a good Cube dealer in your area? I have a 160SL in Large (which is Medium-Large at Cube) and have a comparable height/weight. With the 160mm you never bottom out, and keep a reasonable comfort. It has 27.5" wheels, for the same riding height with 29" it would have had a higher toptube...

I went from 27.5" 2.8 to 29" 2.2, so the geometry didn't change at all. On the other bike I have 27.5" 2.4, which is much better for most cases. Even if the geometry changed, i'm not the kind of world champ that notices that.

With this 10sp 11-50t china/hyperglide "hg500" system I am completely satisfied. Somebody has a clue why Shimano had to "invent" the uncompatible Linkglide system (10-speed version) Doesn't seem lighter, doesn't seem cheaper, the only claims I see are bold, "up to 300% more... improved...

That's how the LSS and that Badass boxes work. Badass does it electronically by faking a slower sensor, the LSS is a pure mech solution based on planetary gears. https://www.emtbforums.com/threads/i-created-a-purely-mechanical-turbo-levo-speed-limit-increase.3072/

...and derailleur-shifter-cassette-chain kits are cheaper too. Better to order a complete XT set at the beginning, for spares.

The advantages of ABS are clear, no way to miss that. But the system adds 2 speed sensors to the bike, and that's something I really don't want.

I have a Cube 750Wh with this lock and key: https://www.bike-discount.de/en/abus-xplus-locking-cylinder-for-bosch-powertube-750-the-smart-system It can't be too difficult to modify the lock, so it accepts a 5 or 6mm Allen key.

I recently bent the derailleur cage a bit. Bent it back, everything's fine again. So looked up the price of 2 derailleur cage plates, and from the start I also wanted a spare set of derailleur wheels. Better to buy it complete:

One for spares, when I hit something again, or the bearings are worn. .

I also have this cover, but now also need one for the battery side connector. When carrying a spare battery in the backpack.