Not sensitive enough. Best if the specified value falls midrange on the tools torque range...especially on something as finicky as this. There are some torque screwdrivers out there in the $50 range but would you trust them? Capri tools sells a quality looking driver on Amazon for $114 with a...
Al Boneta summarized well:
"Enough shit slinging already, it just doesn’t reflect well on this forum, it’s users or it’s founder".
That's a reasonable suggestion...
Parts via Amazon since I reside in a small city without great hardware stores available:
NIBCO 4551-H Series PVC Pipe Fitting, Flange, Schedule 80, 1-1/2" Socket Stainless T-Nuts, 5/16"-18 (25 Pack), Threaded Insert...
Drop bar hanger would be OK if you're into displaying a bike but not stable at all for working on the bike.
Park rubber jaws are great but do get chewed up over time and debris can get embedded into the surface, hence the old piece of MC tube wrapped around the post prior to clamping around...
Got the work stand, just wondered if simply moving the swingarm thru it's range of motion could identify bearing problems...just in search of a quick and easy way to do a test without disassembling more than necessary. The shock bolt method is a good alternative and would allow a bit more rotation.
Would it be an adaquet occasional test of the bearing condition to release the pressure in the shock, with the rear wheel removed, and manipulate the swing arm thru it's travel while checking for smoothness and lack of sideplay? Could resistance or noise be detected? Never tried it and am...
Evidently Gary is familiar with gt85 and although it's not a common stateside product, it probably contains carrier solvents which would degrade grease and not be good for the bearing.
Also, unlike "seamarsh" I would fill the pivot bearings with grease to avoid gaps which could allow water to...
80% seized bearings after less than a year of riding seems absurd unless the bike was power washed or cleaned with aggressive detergents or solvents. Lucky that the bearings did not spin within the frame and damage the interference fit of the bearing. With this much damage to the swing-arm...
What was their best guess as to why the cable/connector split?
Anyone else have feedback regarding the same?
Twist or pull stress when opening/closing the charge connector cover?
Fingers crossed...all is well after 40 charge cycles (equates to 80 removal cycles?). I treat it with loving care...?
Glad nobody took offense to the ham-fisted adjetive...good group here.
Water in the cable housing would not necessarily penetrate the wire insulation and ultimately the copper wire unless like Mikerb said; "very old condition" with potential cracking of the insulation due the the flexing of the cable when constantly removing it to charge the battery. However...
I don't remember the process exactly when changing phones however you must renter the passcode number for the bike with the new phone. It's the six digit number that came with the bike paperwork and is also applied to the underside of the TCU mounted on your top tube. Good luck
You make get better results by running a tap thru the backside of the crank arm to make sure you don't cross thread when trying to repair the damaged threads. You may be able to realign the threads by running the pedal in from the backside or even a longer bolt. Good luck
Use the compressed air for removal and it avoids the knife slice thru the bar surface and potential for cutting oneself. Oh well :rolleyes: ...to each his own and it does look like they are having fun.
Note: apply compressed air into the handlebar's opposite end of the grip you're trying to...