I have that same hub but with a 3 pawl freehub body. I wouldn't say the seal is any good tbh purely due to not actually having a recess for it to into... Unlike something like Hope where the seal sits into a groove both on the freehub and into the shell. Saying that, mine has proven to be...
From looking at your body proportions I'd look at something similar to an older shape Levo/cube equivalent as they tend to have slightly older gen geometry ie shorter top tube/seat tube length ratio compared to the newer stuff.
In my case it helps that ive always lifted weights/rode copious amounts of street bmx and mtb when growing up.... The techniques never leave you?.... That and having the benefit of weight to help me?
Don't get me wrong.. Doing a manny now is much harder with a 470mm chainstay than with my old...
Couldn't agree more?... Regarding the measurements I suppose in my case I used to be a glazier/and window fitter/glass cutter and got used to being given measurements in both languages.. Its kinda stick I guess? apologies if it's annoying
Quite honestly I wouldn't know haha.. Not something I've ever measured.
All I know is that I run a 55mm stem and 800mm bars on my current bike. I'm waiting for my next bike (medium giant reign e which has better geometry more suited to me)
5'9"/175cm here with 28" inseam.
Always preferred a slightly longer reach ie 460-480. I personally think the front centre, seat tube length and stack height matters moreso than reach as the latter can be adjusted a fair bit with seat for and aft position as well as different stem lengths...
A mate of mine is the same height as you with same leg length and rides a large.
I (at 5'9" and 27" inside leg) would also go for a large as the medium is just too short even for me.
Iirc he's even using it with a 50mm stem.
Personally I've never worriwd about the standover height as for the...
Like Gary, I'd not recommend the newer hope hubs as the pawls are a fair bit smaller than the pro2/evo version and at 370lb I can ruin them in quick time on a normal bike, let alone and ebike.
I've had decent reliability from a set of novatecs on my jam2. D0042b15 front and a d462 x12 on the...
Leave the shock pumped up.
Put your foot on the rear wheel as best you can. Then lift/put down a few times the main part of the frame with one hand whilst feeling both top and bottom shock mounts for any movement. Do the same again with the main pivot above the bb and then as best you can with...
Yeah.. Apologies... Thats exactly what I ACTUALLY did haha... I changed from a 162 to a 462 for that very reason. Forgive the braindeadness(is that even a word ?) I'm supposed to asleep as I'm due at work for 0200?
What rear hub do you have? I'm using a d162 and find that using a wet lube on the pawls and ratchet ring better than grease for keeping the insides working as they should. I do check it weekly but only ever need to add a little lube maybe once a month or so. I also prise the bearing seals off...
I just buy the cheapest chains I can find for whatever speed Im using at the time.. The rate these ebikes go though them its pointless getting spendy spendy on a consumable part
Wouldn't worry about that dude... I've been heavy most of my life(you're a lightweight in comparison)
I've always searched for bikes based on the rear shock leverage ratio.. Ie lower the better.
Start by checking out the rear travel and then finding the rear shock stroke and dividing the travel...
I guess it all depends on where you ride. I also have another bike (29er version) with raceface ar30 rims with again the spesh butcher/slaughter combo but in 2.6 guise and for most type of riding I will say the 29er is faster pretty much everywhere.... Although the wheel weights are very similar...
Can I ask why the need to upgrade first?
I have a bikewith (what sounds like) these same wheels and they're pretty good already imo.
Specialized do some decent tyres that fit nicely ie a butcher grid 2.8 for the front and a slaughter grid 2.6 for the rear(obviously depends on what and where...