Wow... Just googled them and boy are they expensive in comparison to the composite version😬
I'm currently borrowing my mates unites until I find a new pair for the new bike... Looks like I may try and do a deal with him for these instead. Can't justify 80quid or more for metal pedals.
Normally...
Would really benefit from knowing your riding style/location before being able to help properly.
Motor that gives its power in accordance to how you pedal(ie are you a masher or a spinner)
Then it comes down to your body dimensions(short/long legged, helps with geometry sizing.. . Likewise upper...
That's what mine did, honestly just pedalling along... Tbf they were 2 years old by then. Would happily by another set if the axle went all the way to the edge of the pedal
I've acquired a pair of unite pedals 2nd hand off a mte which seem fairly large and grippy. Coming from various sets of superstars, dmrs, ht's etc I'd say they're every bit as good.
Been waiting for the new one to arrive for a while now.. Quick pic with the old one.
First ride out yesterday of 25 miles of xc and used 55% battery mainly on settings 1-2(heavy bugger at 175kg so I'd say it's not bad) first impressions are... Tyres are crap and are getting changed this week...
Nothing special.. Just a quid snap of new and old before it's first official outing.
( old focus has been passed onto the lad, for which he is happier than a pig in doodah)
It's based on the leverage ratio of the bike really.
Broadly speaking, there is a certain average ratio of about 2:6-1 whereby at max pressure on a rockshox (350psi) I cannot sit on a bike without it blowing through 50-60% of its travel... Therefore rendering that bike unuseable for me.
Now...
Disagree... You will outdo the limits of the rear shock waaay before you reach the limits of the wheels. Obviously is frame (and leverage ratio) dependant though.
Correctly built wheels can take a hell of a lot of weight (providing you don't ride like a ham-fisted rhino)
Ignore the weight limits... 170kg here on a 2019 jam2 and no issues. Just don't expect amazing battery life unless you spin the gears and use low tread tyres
You should have a groove at either end of the axle which will take 17mm cone spanners to undo, then slide the axle from the hub and the freehub body should come away with the axle... Its fairly simple and self explanatory once you're inside. I make sure the pawls and ratchet ring are clean...
First of all, we need to know what numbers are written on your hubs as that will determine exactly what bearing numbers you'll need and how the hubs are disassembled.
For example it'll read something similar to this
D771sb-b15
Then you can follow the instructions in this video which should be...
Made sure my first ride was around a wet country park so as to coat the downtube with a fine layer of dirt that restricts any of the real bad shit from sticking to the bike. Never wash it as its just a tool.. Not a showpiece.. As long as all the important bits (chain, cassette, shocks and...
Can't wait to get back to the peaks/dales/lakes. Living in the Midlands is shit for any scenic/fun riding and there's only so many places I can go to from my door.
There's no bushes in the frame... The axle sits directly onto the bearings from what I remember.. The only part of the axle that contacts the frame is the drive side wedge... The large diameter section of the axle sits onto a bearing either side and then the cap screws into the axle.
Make sure...
Block of wood on tension cap and tap harder.. It will come out eventually... Once it dislodges.. Remove tension cap and use a drift to knock it all the way out.
It will be a lot easier if you turn the bike upside down and remove the rear wheel as that (although doesn't seem relevant) adds a...