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I'm going to be a broken record here, sorry! Each motor is going to have a wattage/assist level where it's most efficient. My hunch is that, in order to create the most natural feel (and also because it likely has fewest moving parts) the TQ may be optimized for efficiency Eco mode. As a...

Great video, thanks for that. I'm wondering if the TQ motor may just be optimized for efficiency at lower wattage, whereas the Fazua maybe the opposite. Not talking about the app settings, but the actual design of the motor. Given the difference in torque it kind of makes sense. The TQ seems...

This is what I have been suspecting. I haven’t noticed any weird sounds on mine yet, but in my experience with other eBikes (shimano/Norco and Specialized) they all have some unfortunate quirks. Unless it stops/interrupts the ride, or leads to a parts failure, it shouldn’t be labeled a defect...

This is what I have been suspecting. I haven’t noticed any weird sounds on mine yet, but in my experience with other eBikes (shimano/Norco and Specialized) they all have some unfortunate quirks. Unless it stops/interrupts the ride, or leads to a parts failure, it shouldn’t be labeled a defect...

BB is at 338mm (13.3”) with the 150mm lyrik, 27.5x2.4dhr (r) and 29x2.6dhf (f). Check out my heat-shrinked cables!

I'll try and get you a measurement tonight. I'm with you on 27.5" rear wheels. I definitely prefer the mullet, and slacker head angles. Personal preference, for sure! So the first two rides/40 miles, with the Stock Lyrik 150mm and Mullet, I rode a mix of flow/jump trails and enduro DH trails...

I'm running the mullet wheels. Comparing against my garmin, I found the speeds were off less than 1mph. Beware if you get the Fuel 9.8 though, the air shaft needed to set the Lyrik up at 160mm (as suggested by Trek) won't be available until February. Bike rides fine with the fork at 150mm...

Thanks Towser. Looks like that would fit into different style of CL lock ring than I have (mine has splines around the OD rather than the ID). I‘m running King hubs which won’t work with that ID Lockring. My temp fix seems to be OK for now- I just sandwiched the 6-bolt magnet clip between the...

Haha, all good- I had actually been searching for the RT-EM900. Thanks for the links. In other news, since I’ve mulleted my Fuel, I was hoping to change the fork travel from 150 to 160, but it sounds like the 2023 Lyrik airsprings won’t be available till February, and the older airsprings won’t...

I have a question for those of you that have over-stroked the stock rear shock. With the stock shock (RockShox Super Deluxe Select+ RT, 205mm x 60mm) I’m getting full travel 1-2x a ride. It’s pushing the o-ring off the end of the shaft. So that has me wondering how removing a travel spacer is...

Thanks Levity, sadly those seem unattainable in the US, at least in a 203mm size. My shop says they don’t exist on Shimanos B2B page. I’m experimenting with a variety of hacks…

I pulled mine, being in between sizes I wanted a shorter stem to make the L work for me. The stock RSL bars came with a 45mm stem, I went to a 32mm Raceface. Bars/Stem and carbon wheels are for sale on Pinkbike if you’re interested.

Originally I had a test ride on a stock M and it felt too small (I’m 175cm) and too XC for my tastes, but my hunch that sizing up to a L with the smaller rear wheel and shorter stem might be perfect- and it is! So here’s mine, a 9.8 xt, L, with the following upgrades; NOBL TR37 wheelset...

too soon to say I think, I’ve only test ridden around the neighborhood and not crossed any rivers with it yet! But so far so good. I had noticed the problems occur when I’ve got the bike running hot- long steep climbs etc. I hear that replacing the wiring harness isn’t usually required but I...

Random update on my 2019 Sight VLT: We got a good bit of dry snow and I had several really fun rides in 4-6” deep powder! Then hung the bike up for a bit and the following rides were an error code horror show. My bike has been preciously prone to error codes during the wet seasons. I...

Has anyone cleaned/greased the connections between their battery and motor? I’ve had my 2019 sight VLT for two years now, in the drier months it’s been reliable. Yesterday (2 weeks after a snow ride) I had multiple errors, saying there was an issue with the connection between battery and motor...

Based on my Norco Sight VLT with SHimano E8000 and 630 battery: Don’t leave your bike charging overnight. Using a Garmin+ Shimano EW-En100 I discovered my battery drops to 89% if I leave it plugged in overnight, but 100% if I charge it just 3.5hrs. Eco isn’t neccesarily saving you battery...

So confirmed from Norco, the 2019 era sight VLT’s weren’t designed to accept Shimano steps chainguides. Norco suggests a STFU style chainguide (I actually have one I removed, so back on it goes). I ended up trying both the One-up and E*thirteen and neither worked. I think you could budge...

Hmm, that’s an interesting idea. I think I’d have to space the chainring or spider out (currently a 1-piece e*13 ring) since the chainguide backer plates are hitting the back of the spider/chaining. Still may be worth a shot. I think I’d need 3mm.

Is anyone successfully running a chainguide on a pre-2022 Sight VLT? I’ve been dropping chains, so I purchased an e*thirteen and then a One-up chainguide, both for Shimano Steps, neither seem to fit- too far outboard so the backer plate collides with the chainring.