I can't speak for US vendors (I'm in NZ)...but I'd be surprised if there aren't...yes you can buy complete wheels, there's even an eMTB specific set, H1900 Hand-Built Mountain Bike Wheels | DT Swiss
Yes the Bontrager wheels are weak, only 28 spokes vs 32, and the spokes break easily as you've experienced...I would go for DT Swiss good stong wheels, and their star ratchet freehubs are much stronger than ratchet & pawl systems.
I definitely wouldn't be happy with that, to me that is not just "shop soiled", it's a damaged bike, and the price difference of 100£ doesn't make up for it...I would take it back and say you'd rather pay more for a new bike
Yeah emtbs are awesome for that, on my local club trails I would manage maybe 4-5 runs tops on my steam bike, (the climbs are short but punchy...and I'm over 50 so harder to maintain fitness) ...on my emtb I can easily double that, and because I'm smashing more laps each time I'm out I have...
Glad you got the problem sorted ! Shame you had to get a new battery though. A spray cleaner such as this would do a more thorough job than just compressed air, if you need to clean your contacts in the future...
Have you tried cleaning the contacts, you can buy a spray for just this purpose, strange it runs fine with the battery partially out, this was all I could think of
@rzr the torque on the motor bolts is 20nm. Use loctite threadlocker on them when you reassemble. It's really easy to remove the motor...take off the bash guard, unplug the connectors (take a pic beforehand if unsure) split the chain, undo the 6 torx plus 40 bolts and lift it out.
Hello everyone, does anyone know the length / part number for the cable connecting the battery to the motor? (2020 Rail) I haven't had the chance to pull everything to bits yet but I want to order the part today to make sure it's here for Christmas...part number is BOS 12700165xx depending on...
I can't comment on the 55mm since I got the 52mm....but quite a few people are running bigger chainrings with more offset...have a search around the forum you'll find the information you need
Your mishap is unfortunate but not uncommon. I had the same thing happen a few years ago on a near new Trek Remedy (the broken spoke, not the bearing issue ) Trek's Bontrager wheels and hubs are made of cheese...I think Trek make really good and price competitive bikes, but I've come to believe...
The bike shops should be torqueing the lockring nut to spec when assembling, but they don't seem to use loctite on that part, and since the specified torque is only 30-ish nm, and it's a reverse thread, it tends to loosen as you pedal...yes once you've sorted it, and with your new parts, you...
The lockring coming loose is a common Rail issue...you'll need some loctite threadlock and a torque wrench that reads anti-clockwise...you should have no more issues after that 😉👍
Shimano Linkglide is the ebike specific drivetrain that you're wishing for TESTED: Shimano Linkglide XT M8130 Groupset
but you will need to change everything to use it, derailleur, shifter, cassette...but in my experience it's not necessary, I'm still on the original 12sp drivetrain after some...
Not an ideal situation @GlassKnee and I'd be pretty unhappy if I were in your place, but as @JP-NZ says the difference is in the rocker...if evo can't or won't give you the rocker from your original frame it should be possible to source one as a spare part, obviously an unwelcome extra expense...
Not ideal is it ? What if you preferred the qualities of an alloy frame over carbon ? I think they definitely should include a matching battery cover though
I've just bought RC Hellion Elites, first time I've tried anything other than Five Tens. I really like them, they're much more comfortable than the Five Tens, and although not quite as grippy, they're pretty damn close. Sizing runs small however, had to go a whole size up from what I take in...