Edited the post title. It was previously range extender rattle but I've rules that out.
Anyway, H30...
The last couple of rides I've done, I've fitted a range extender. I've also noticed a nasty rattle occasionally when hitting high frequency small bumps.
I've been over all the frame...
It's easy enough but you'll have to drop the motor.
You'll also realise that you need a specific chainring tool to be able to drop the motor... Park tool LRT-2 definitely works. I've seen reports that some of the cheaper ones are too large OD and foul the chainring so don't fit.
Personally, I wouldn't run anything that couldn't be serviced and tuned DIY so for me it would be the DVO or as above, a Mara Pro.
Shame neither are easily procured in the UK.
I actually quite like the DPS which suprised me. I thought I'd hate it but it's actually handled everything I've asked...
It's a good choice! Although I may be biased...
Have you ridden it yet? I was suprised by how natural it feels when pedalling. I wanted something that felt like a mountain bike with a bit of extra help and the Rise does that perfectly.
I'm getting 40 miles/7000' out of the battery and doing...
I was going to say that I'm still using some lithium grease from halfords that must be 15 years old but I can see that would be considered young by some of you lot 😂
If it still feels greasy, I reckon you're good to go.
I'm guessing you're warranty is gone as soon as this is fitted?
Genuine question... Do people think the linkage needs more progression? Going from 20% stock to 27% is a 35% increase so hardly a small amount.
I guess if you're running a coil or your on the heavy side it could help but for me...
I upped the travel on my Mezzer to 160. Didn't notice on the downs but it feels too light on the front on steep climbs so I'm going back to 150.
The answer to pedal strikes is shorter cranks.
If you think your bottoming out hard enough to crack the frame then either you need to set the shock...
Pretty sure the Shimano eTube app will tell you the capacity of the battery.
I'm about 160lbs and ride an H30 with the 504wH battery. I will easily double that ride (30 miles with 4000') and use about 70% of the battery if I leave it in trail.
I'd say you've got the 360wH battery.
Yep, as above. All Mezzers start out as 180mm and come with enough spacers to drop the travel to 140mm. You can go lower with extra spacers but you start to mess up the positive/ negative volume ratios. It's easy to do provided you're happy to pull the air spring out. The spacers clip onto the...
There are 2 metal spacers, one either side of the linkage.
Highlighted in yellow below. It can be a bit fiddly to get them to stay in place while you slot the linkage arm into the seat stay. A blob of grease on either spacer helps keep them in place. Having the other end of the seat stay loose...
This about what I got from an SLX cassette and a 6100 chain that came standard on my Rise.
I do a lot of pedalling on my rides and love climbing but I'm not a pedal masher and make full use of the gears. They just didn't last all that well.
II reckon swapping the chain earlier would probably...
It is a good system. The shifts are crisp even with a load of power going through the pedals.
I've just had to replace my slx cassette though after only 890 miles which is disappointing given that I see people running thousands of miles on them.
Is there any functional difference between a...
Is the Wolftooth that you've bought the direct mount version? If it is, you can't space it out so you'll be stuck at 55mm.
I actually emailed them asking if they had any plans to offer reduced chainline and they basically said not at the moment. They did say that if there was enough demand...
I find the 53mm chainline bad enough so 55 must be pretty terrible in the larger sprockets on the cassette.
I've been looking at replacing the original e13 chainring too. I'm planning on using a shimano 4 bolt adaptor and a hope retainer ring. Going 4 bolt means you can space the chainring out...
Another thing that I found helped, once you've got the metal spacers in place (blob of grease to hold them), use a 10mm allen key through the hole to make sure everything is aligned properly. You should be able to thread it right through the seatstay and linkage. Then fit the bolt.
I had a nightmare with these too.
Best way I found was to disassemble the rear triangle. Take out the bolts for the rear dropouts and then start off with the bolts you've pictured. Once those are in, do the driveside rear axle bolt and lastly, the non drive side.
Definitely not. The bolts are...
Oh, 100%
No regrets. I bought it in July and had 2 weeks off work to ride it. Did some amazing rides that I'd never had managed on a non assisted bike.
It played on my mind a bit when I saw the prices coming down but it was still totally worth it.
I know! Sounds expensive but to replace the crappy standard 'pull and turn' retainer, you have to buy the whole mounting kit from Orbea at €25 a time.
The original one on my bike lasted exactly 1 wheel removal. I bought a new one and it's knackered already. It's not the end of the world, it...