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For me as an user mentioned test shows that with way I use my ebike I will not overheat Avinox motor, will do more then 2000m ascent and 60+km. All with bike about 20 kg. I really dont care if there is AAA battery 1.5V or 48V another one. If I am involved in next gen ebike motor development...

Guys, I dont understand. This test, steep uphill only in boost 8 times 30s in row with 115kg rider is not enough for you to proof Avinox overheating? Just want to understand your thoughts. https://emtb-test.com/en/e-bike-motor-review/dji-avinox-motor-review/

Thanks guys! I think I go with Sprindex 490-560, hope will fit somewhere in the middle.

Thanks, I know that calculator. I am more interested in personal experience of Levo SL coil riders with weight about 80kg.

Hi there. Would like to fit coil shock to Levo SL gen2 but have no idea which spring rate to start with. I am 80 kg kitted. Any suggestions? Thanks for help!

thanks!

Hello, I would like to be sure: Amflow and Amflow Pro are the same in terms of frame, battery, motor, display. Right? Thanks for answer!

Week ago I broke carbon rim, hit jump landing edge, I am sure shock went max stroke to the bottom. No signs on frame.

Did not check, because before TTX1 I run Float X also 65 stroke with no issues. Have no idea how big bo spacer is inside.

I run TTX1 205x65 as it came from factory. Msize frame, no probs with clearance. I use full stroke (by sag indicator).

No, its not normal, my first and second TQ was quiet when backpedaling.

Logic was that when you want to make inner exact diameter within 0,01 mm (for example 7,88mm) its difficult, because tool presses to thin wall of rotating alu sleeve from inside…. Instead they took existing M10 ss bolt from shelf, took down it on lathe to 7,99mm, did 6mm long M8 thread and job...

I asked in garage for this and was told, that its technically MUCH EASIER to make 7,99 mm outer diameter bolt then to make 0,01 mm wider inner diameter of mounting sleeve/hardware. And, second problem is, that standard bolts are not produced within 0,01 mm tolerance, so every bolt would need...

Perfectly described problem and solution. We where lucky here in Slovakia. We asked clever guys in local garage and they made for me and my friends 5 custom bolts just for 100€. Crazy how big company like Trek is can owerlook and ignore it for two years now.

I changed or removed shock 15+ times, bolts still ok. Use quality and precise alen keys, insert deep into the bolt, dont tight over, always put small drop of loctite.

Orignal shock bolt head is with hex for 6mm alen key. Bolts we made custom ones from where bigger - M10, so have head for 8mm alen key. You machine down just outer diameter, you dont touch hex.

Sorry dont have any drawing. Best way is to take bike to local garage and ask them to make for you custom size bolt. They will measure bike and shock bushing and will make one for you without gap. We took one size bigger standard stainless steel bolt and made it from that one.

Two of my friends got this sound after first 700-800km. Both motor replaced under warranty.

The same with my bike and TQ app

Linked bolt from trek is standard bolt you can buy anywhere and will cause shock rattling and frame damaging. We solved it locally, asked garage guys to make few custom 7,99mm stainless steel bolts for us. No gap, rattling, knocking any more even shock bolt is tighten only 10 Ncm.