if we're getting into physics, consider rotor size alone! It's simply a longer lever. Even with the modulation argument, bigger rotors will take you in that direction. A longer lever = more finesse, TO SLAM IT HARD :ROFLMAO:. Ooops, brain fart :ROFLMAO:; it will give you more finesse :)
I'm in the modulation camp, but not in this instance :ROFLMAO:. I ride a couple of long steep techy rocky descents most days - that's why I put metal pads on the back. Usually it's a quick grab on about a meter of flat before a mess of washouts and rock. That meter is just part of a second...
I've been running resin pads on the front, metal on the rear. I was running organic on the rear, but it just gets too hot. It's been about a month now and I still lock the rear at times - something I never used to. Still it seems to be the best mix for me and I'm still hoping to adjust.
I think the op is talking about a totally different time frame. Oh, geez, I found your other post; quite a theory based on very little tolerance if correct. So as soon as the battery is charged, it starts discharging by design if you don't remove the charger right at the time the charging has...
I've been keeping an eye out, but I don't think I can do better than what I have; Merida e140 ltd 2020. It's a budget bike. I used to think that I should have got an e160, but the e140 has better geo for climbing and nimbleness. I'm also appreciative of it now that I'm getting into jumps. I've...
I think there is a limit to things, eg bar length getting bigger for everyone, and crank length getting smaller for everyone, and reach / wheelbase getting longer. Some of these things seem to be just a sales grab for the mindless. Kind of like the past pixel wars with cameras - actual image...
Oh, I wouldn't use superglue, ever. Contact adhesive - lots of different brands and much safer. It doesn't dry hard. As with most things, it's the details that matter. I did try the fiber grip on bars and stems. I don't like damaging bars at the mount area where the clamp bites in a bit. I went...
I would have preferred if it worked; I did buy the stuff. Admittedly it was with a dropper seat post. It would hold for some months, then start to slip more than ever when the grease started to run. After a thorough clean to get rid of the grease, I used a very small amount of contact adhesive...
No. It's something that has to be re applied when things start to slip again. From memory that's not long, like 3 months maybe. I still have a near full container from years ago now. I should just throw it away - I can't think of anything it is good for.
I think I understand the problem. I'd just use some contact adhesive in one spot, or maybe two spots opposite each other. You'd still be able to lever it off without much force.
Carbon paste is really grease with carbon particles in it. The grease runs after a while and everything goes loose...
I don't think gps can account for ups and downs - the satellites are in low orbit of the earth. If strava uses gps then it should read something a bit shorter than actual ground covered. 1.2 miles does seem to be too much of a discrepency over an approx. 20 mile ride, although it wouldn't be...
based on.....? I live in steep country; it's up or down. All the ups and downs are around 1km. Grab a brake, let go; when you let go you instantly fly, and it's rowdy. Bigger rotors weigh bugger all. They're more effective, which means less time on the brake - less heat generated. They also...
Are you equalizing the shock as you pump it up? If you are and it really is at 325, then phone your lbs and ask them to order in the maximum amount of tokens for that shock.
well yeah. That seems obvious without having to search. Just looking at rekon and ikon both have shallow center knobs and packed together; they'd be good on road and hardpack?