Which for steep techy dh between SL or Rise?

Mteam

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Okay so this will make you all happy and I get to prove doubters wrong at the same time! ?

ebikeshop I’ve just stuck £200 deposit down as the 12/12 order (next batch is the new model in November) but the bike isn’t ready until July so I get to see if I can solve any current issues.

If by July the wild has redeemed itself I’ll give to the missus! (larger than normal *cough cough*). There’s 18 months interest free, so £300 ish per month, it’s not really 7k is it then and my target then well I can sell stuff, maybe do clinical trials or the odd body part, by all accounts it probably won’t impact on any performance so happy days, actually if anything the lighter weight would gain me more agility!! :ROFLMAO:

My lbs annoyingly can’t commit me a bike, but can offer a demo and ‘maybe’ a bike, I’ve no idea, have to wait back, kicker as they do 10% off.....no doubt an M10 will just pop up law of the sod and all that
Nice, you can never have too many bikes.
 

hainman

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Apr 8, 2021
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Hey welcome to the fun house new member! ?

This was the LBS as they had an M20
available and after doing a quick comparison it would have made more sense to go the upgrade route and end up with better parts.

What’s eeb stand for? I bet your carbon version is lovely! Good to hear some adjustments have made things good for you, hopefully I’m as fortunate.....this sport you have to push the boundaries as there’s so little time hence my enormous amount of enquiry but at least I’m not giving up just yet!
I’m on the Orbea wild owners page on FB and a lot of guys have went 170 with some going 180 and have been confirmed by Orbea it’s ok to up the travel
Most manufacturers will allow 10-20mm travel upgrade
 

carlbiker

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I’m on the Orbea wild owners page on FB and a lot of guys have went 170 with some going 180 and have been confirmed by Orbea it’s ok to up the travel
Most manufacturers will allow 10-20mm travel upgrade
My reference related to the rise which top end mteam has 140 travel, one I’m getting is 150, I get the feeling it’s overbiked if pros use 140 but hedging a bet 150 I’m sure will be splendid on that type of quality fork
 
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rod9301

Active member
Oct 10, 2020
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I agree with the OP, in some situations the FF e'bikes do feel tanklike. In tight trails you can't beat a nimble bike, the corner cutting on our local stuff bears witness to that. And strength and fitness won't help that much (I have both) your still fighting a lot of extra weight! Its horses for courses I'm afraid all bike choices are compromises in the end and everybody's 'local stuff' is different. You can't beat 'try before you buy'.
Not true at all, my bike is 24kgs and it turns as quickly as my 14kgs bike.
 

nB2000

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Jul 23, 2020
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29
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Carl, the bike you already have should be
Good at all the things you say it's not good at.

Yes it's heavier than a normal bike and the light ebikes, which gives it strengths and weaknesses in different areas, but to say its only good for shallow dh, straight-line etc is just not correct.

Your thread title 'which for steep techy downhill, rise or sl' - the answer is neither, they're both trailbikes, as defined by their geo, sus travel and other components. Your current bike should be a better fit for steep techy downhill. The rise and sl will be fine at steep techy dh in the hands of a good rider, but shouldn't be as good as what you have.

They should be better at flatter more mellow trails, and will be easier to hop and goof about on - if that's what you're really after rather than steep techy dh then go for it.

Ps what do you mean by this "doesn't modulate well dh and has a sharp pendulum shift".

I don't really understand what handling characteristics you're trying to convey by the above.
I’m 5’10 and came from an S4 Kenevo running 29s, now on a L SL with a bit of extra travel. It definitely goes down hill much better then stock and still has enough power to get back up.
As one can expect the lighter weight ebike is more agile and playful. Definitely no where near the pace of a FF bike but more than enough to make your analogue mates still hate you.
This all works for me, for my style of riding, so I would suggest you ride a lightweight before buying one.

Good luck
A mate of a mate used to ride WC DH. He says he’s faster DH on an SL (with the 34s) than on any other bike.
that made me think SL for sure.
 
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Gary

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Pretty much any mountain bike is rideable on a 250lb dirt bike. Think about that.
Couldn't even imagine the image of a mountain bike being ridden ON a 250lb dirt bike...

Will a 250lb+ guy sat in a folding camp chair having his belly dry humped do?

i7zKJ8T.gif
 

carlbiker

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Can highly recommend this place and this loop in particular, extremely gnarly dh sections, I nearly ended up skidding down a steep embankment (trying to avoid too much slop) but then it’s not advisable to take a high line which requires jumps in slippy terrain needing perfect form (and luck) but was worth the recovery, for reasons unknown after the first warning I tried again right away then decided maybe not 3rd time lucky! ?

Today reminded me why I loved the Wild, sadly run out of battery as we decided to ‘explore’ other areas but was fun riding without power for last few miles up/dh!

386C5693-6133-4EF4-AF10-6A0C7A18DCD5.jpeg
 

Mteam

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I nearly ended up skidding down a steep embankment (trying to avoid too much slop) but then it’s not advisable to take a high line which requires jumps in slippy terrain needing perfect form (and luck)
View attachment 61159

I know that loop well, but can't place your description above, where abouts on that map was it?

Next time try to go down the beast instead of potatoe alley
 

carlbiker

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I know that loop well, but can't place your description above, where abouts on that map was it?

Next time try to go down the beast instead of potatoe alley

lockerbrook descent I think it was around point 8

Oh will check beast cheers ?, that potato alley is a pain in the ass going at full speed but my suspension is still really stiff (need to get a cassette tool to remove tokens!)

AD6E0B22-B23E-45BF-B6FA-9C2CF2D7C999.jpeg
 

Mteam

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lockerbrook descent I think it was around point 8

Oh will check beast cheers ?, that potato alley is a pain in the ass going at full speed but my suspension is still really stiff (need to get a cassette tool to remove tokens!)

View attachment 61162
Also, try the 'les arcs' descent down from whin stone Lee tor to the ladybower Inn, it's a footpath officially, but more fun than the bridleway route you took. It's much shorter and steeper too.
 

Rahr85

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this ^ it's vaguely this part at the end of my video. @ 5:50 ->

Although i'm suprised you ran out of range, i still had about 35% left and the levo (500wh) had about 30%

1620714117474.png


we are supposed to be going again on sunday but with a bunch of normal bikes too so it'll be sloooooow up the hills ?
 

carlbiker

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Also, try the 'les arcs' descent down from whin stone Lee tor to the ladybower Inn, it's a footpath officially, but more fun than the bridleway route you took. It's much shorter and steeper too.

I don’t suppose you could piece it together on kommute at all if you get a min? I can’t seem to tie up the bottom parts together to close the loop as it backtracks back up and down the reservoir, defo will to give it a try, I see beast comes back on itself but that’s fine

Although i'm suprised you ran out of range, i still had about 35% left and the levo (500wh) had about 30%

Yeah it’s because we didn’t stick to the route and ended up having trying to get further north west as there’s a few features up there but we couldnt find any for bike access! Descent was very fun coming back though....I knew I could spoil myself with EMTB mode round it all but didn’t factor in the off track stuff although I’m starting to work out using higher cadence is a good practice to get into as this lesson proved! Nice to know it’s just about possible to pedal in off mode though!

4EBC8052-B59B-45E2-A35C-9B6404E123B0.jpeg
 

Mteam

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I don’t suppose you could piece it together on kommute at all if you get a min? I can’t seem to tie up the bottom parts together to close the loop as it backtracks back up and down the reservoir, defo will to give it a try, I see beast comes back on itself but that’s fine

Here you go - ignore the little dog leg on the bottom left as we started/finished in hope. Can email you a gpx file of this if you messsage me your email address
1620731485774.png
 

carlbiker

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Here you go - ignore the little dog leg on the bottom left as we started/finished in hope. Can email you a gpx file of this if you messsage me your email address
View attachment 61201

Awesome or just copy/paste the Komoot link? I think I can download the gpx from there if that’s what the Kiox uses although I find my phone works best, elevation data’s pretty handy to see but I need to find a way to mount my phone onto my frame and not the bars!
 

Mteam

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Awesome or just copy/paste the Komoot link? I think I can download the gpx from there if that’s what the Kiox uses although I find my phone works best, elevation data’s pretty handy to see but I need to find a way to mount my phone onto my frame and not the bars!
Its on strava not komoot, and I have all my rides on strava set to private so only people that follow me can see it , so you wont be able to see it.

If you're on strava I can add you as a follower and then you can see it, or I can just email you the gpx file
 

carlbiker

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So now I’m confused ?!

The normal bike lads mainly get to the session skills type stuff, you know trails, jumps, drops that kind of thing (general mincing) and I’m just starting to build upto jumps and drops (larger ones) but I tend to avoid because I’m still working on the bike setup...

After yesterday I now realise what the Wild is built for and it’s more bigger XC stuff than trail whereas the Rise will be ideal for the trails or session stuff I suspect....the conundrum is having both in ones possession at the same time...I can pretend the other half owns the wild however or the rise ?. My other concern would be what if actually there is little difference between the two....I still have the demo option and now an m20 has popped up for £5k....

After yesterday tyre wise I’m now looking at Assegai to run with the dhr, grip was solid yesterday at speed, almost as though the faster you go the more grip you get ? (you don’t say Gary is thinking). I’ll consider a 27.5 wheelset for mincing days and get something sticky on, not sure what wheel sets are okay.

even a part of me is like....hmmm buy new forks, maybe don’t buy bike 2 at all.......

A friend of mine swapped bikes (cube lad) and we tried a Dh slippy section, I followed and was slipping as usual, I swapped and could modulate his fine and maintain traction but he was able to manage with my bike also!

I think I rode better than him throughout the day but on this particular braking slow dh I seem to suck some ass! That’s good to know it works because now I’ll obsess over it until I beat it....the bite points adjustable but it still seems very loose, you press and It’s like there’s 1mm you can play with at times which gives very little to play with
 

Mteam

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So now I’m confused ?!

The normal bike lads mainly get to the session skills type stuff, you know trails, jumps, drops that kind of thing (general mincing) and I’m just starting to build upto jumps and drops (larger ones) but I tend to avoid because I’m still working on the bike setup...

After yesterday I now realise what the Wild is built for and it’s more bigger XC stuff than trail whereas the Rise will be ideal for the trails or session stuff I suspect....the conundrum is having both in ones possession at the same time...I can pretend the other half owns the wild however or the rise ?. My other concern would be what if actually there is little difference between the two....I still have the demo option and now an m20 has popped up for £5k....

After yesterday tyre wise I’m now looking at Assegai to run with the dhr, grip was solid yesterday at speed, almost as though the faster you go the more grip you get ? (you don’t say Gary is thinking). I’ll consider a 27.5 wheelset for mincing days and get something sticky on, not sure what wheel sets are okay.

even a part of me is like....hmmm buy new forks, maybe don’t buy bike 2 at all.......

A friend of mine swapped bikes (cube lad) and we tried a Dh slippy section, I followed and was slipping as usual, I swapped and could modulate his fine and maintain traction but he was able to manage with my bike also!

I think I rode better than him throughout the day but on this particular braking slow dh I seem to suck some ass! That’s good to know it works because now I’ll obsess over it until I beat it....the bite points adjustable but it still seems very loose, you press and It’s like there’s 1mm you can play with at times which gives very little to play with
With regard to the lack of modulation, you could try running a size smaller brake disc on the back, larger diameter discs are more powerfull but also more grabby and harder to modulate. They're also cheap so easy to give it a try. Might be worth trying smaller on the front too if you find it feels good on the back.

On my ebike I have 203mm disc on the rear and it feels fine for me , but on my normal bikes I use 180mm disc on the back, I tried 203mm on the back and it was way too grabby, not good.
 

Rahr85

E*POWAH Master
Sep 6, 2020
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Ladybower to Whinstone Lee Tor climb | e-mountain bike ride | Komoot this is what we had planned for the next time. Skip the beast and do potato alley again.

Back on topic though, when the going gets gnarly you will undoubtably notice the difference with a better front fork. I wouldn't say i feel like i have full control with my brakes (possibly needing a bleed) but they are substantial...

My point of reference is certainly on the verge of overkill:
180mm fox 38 grip 2. 220/200mm rotors with code rsc brakes. Assegai maxxterra (2.6f 2.5r).

And also referencing a much earlier post, i can only do weekends but happy to meet up one of these locations (greno etc too) and just mess about and do some real world spreadsheeting. :ROFLMAO: ?
 
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Rosemount

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May 23, 2020
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I think I rode better than him throughout the day but on this particular braking slow dh I seem to suck some ass! That’s good to know it works because now I’ll obsess over it until I beat it....the bite points adjustable but it still seems very loose, you press and It’s like there’s 1mm you can play with at times which gives very little to play with
Heels down !
 

carlbiker

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Sep 15, 2020
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leeds england
Ladybower to Whinstone Lee Tor climb | e-mountain bike ride | Komoot this is what we had planned for the next time. Skip the beast and do potato alley again.

Back on topic though, when the going gets gnarly you will undoubtably notice the difference with a better front fork. I wouldn't say i feel like i have full control with my brakes (possibly needing a bleed) but they are substantial...

My point of reference is certainly on the verge of overkill:
180mm fox 38 grip 2. 220/200mm rotors with code rsc brakes. Assegai maxxterra (2.6f 2.5r).

And also referencing a much earlier post, i can only do weekends but happy to meet up one of these locations (greno etc too) and just mess about and do some real world spreadsheeting. :ROFLMAO: ?

yeah up for that, I’m there say for the start of the coaching course.....I’ll take my iPad with me to assess gradients and gforces ?

Or I’ll just feckin SEND IT!
 

carlbiker

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Sep 15, 2020
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leeds england
With regard to the lack of modulation, you could try running a size smaller brake disc on the back, larger diameter discs are more powerfull but also more grabby and harder to modulate. They're also cheap so easy to give it a try. Might be worth trying smaller on the front too if you find it feels good on the back.

On my ebike I have 203mm disc on the rear and it feels fine for me , but on my normal bikes I use 180mm disc on the back, I tried 203mm on the back and it was way too grabby, not good.

That’s pretty interesting hmmmm, I’ll see what coachy man has to say on Saturday about it maybe he can test mine and see what he thinks
 

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