Voima. My Opinion matters. Why I didn't buy a Voima.

[Sijmes]

Well I'm still on the fence.

What's holding me back?
* It's not carbon. That means I cant repair it easily if I break it and its my fault.

* There is no crash replacement policy. Just a "we look after our customers" response. This could be anything from free parts to having to pay full retail for replacement parts. It's an increased risk

* I want mullet option. Pole dont officially offer mullet and cannot configure the sensor in the factory for mullet config. This means I have to try and get a local bosch agent to configure. That's more cost and time and a small possibility it is not available locally. It just adds another level of hassle and admin. Other manufacturers can configure sensors to mullet config in the factory as a standard option.

* I would prefer the race motor. However the race motor option is only available in either complete or frame only with other non removable options I dont neccessarily want. Making the race motor a very expensive option. As an example you cant option the race motor with raw finish no protective film. That means if i chose race motor i would be paying for $800nzd of color and protective film option. I would much prefer to have raw finish and race motor at a reduced price.

*No local support. Pricing at similar pricing to brands supported locally.

* Seat tube geo is too steep for my liking. It leads to compromised having to be made with sizing. 78° would be ideal for me.

* Only one battery size available. I would love a 500wh option for this bike as most of my rides would be within a 500wh capacity. I could then shed another 1.5kg of weight. Plus I could retain the 750wh for longer riders and have 1300wh capacity for big bike park days.

* This is a heavy bike 25-26kg for standard spec. Its a good 2kg heavier than a carbon equivalent.

* Failure of 2022 swingarm from at least one customer suggests more development is needed on the bonded 7075 frame design. Its a concern particularly for hard riders. I do ride hard.

In the frame reach size I want the seated riding position is more cramped than I ideally want. It makes for less comfortable riding position when riding milder terrain. (when riding stupid steep up, and down the geo makes perfect sense)

What do I like?
* 190mm front and rear. ( I cant find any other e-bikes with descent geo with this much travel)
The pole ride somewhere in between my DH bike and enduro bike for descending capability

* Good slack Geo, bb that's not stupid low. and kinematics look awesome

* Even thou alloy is a disadvantage, I to love the crazy cnc'd 2 piece frame. It is "Pole"erising.. hehehe. I could use this bike as advertisment for my bike rack business.

* Bosch motor is the motor I want.

* Freight options are reasonable compared to US procured bikes.

* Awesome consumer feedback. Every boby without except states this is the best e-bike they have ridden/owned.

* Small adaptable company where the owner is actively involved in forum feed back. I like to support the little guy rather that the big corporates.

* 5 year warrantee kind of offsets the concerns of frame delamination.

*Climbs like a damn mountain goat.

You can always ditch the rim magnet and place a chainstay sensor for not much money, should work out of the box. Although I reckon that ground clearance may be an issue as a mullet and you wouldn't want it any slacker than it is. TBH, when you've tried one, you'll agree it's a pretty dialled bike standard, I'd be surprised if you would instantly want to change much.

 

[Sijmes]

You can always ditch the rim magnet and place a chainstay sensor for not much money, should work out of the box. Although I reckon that ground clearance may be an issue as a mullet and you wouldn't want it any slacker than it is. TBH, when you've tried one, you'll agree it's a pretty dialled bike standard, I'd be surprised if you would instantly want to change much.

I went from a Focus Jam2 medium to a K2. I was worried about the longer chainstays, wheelbase, higher BB etc. Well it was all for nothing, my K2 felt instantly nimble, corners on rails. I can still manual 180, huck, bump jump and bunny hop as high and far as my smaller bike whilst feeling far more stable at speed. Finale Ligure was the ultimate testing grounds, mega tight switch backs and fast descents. Manuals are harder to initiate, that's the only negative I can think of. The Voima isn't much more expensive than 2023 Focus Jam2 that I was considering... There are plenty of bikes around for much more money, some aren't even E-bikes.

 

[Plummet]

You can always ditch the rim magnet and place a chainstay sensor for not much money, should work out of the box. Although I reckon that ground clearance may be an issue as a mullet and you wouldn't want it any slacker than it is. TBH, when you've tried one, you'll agree it's a pretty dialled bike standard, I'd be surprised if you would instantly want to change much.

I modelled the changes to the geo by going to mullet.

BB drops 11mm down to 364. My current bike is enduro is 345 and my dh bike 355. So 364 still higher. I'm good on the bb front.

Head angle from 63.5° to 62.7°. My enduro bike is 64° and my DH bike 62.0°. I really like the dh bike slackness for the steep tech I chase. I am a steep tech specialist. I literally hunt down the steepest natural (sometimes unridable)tech I can find and ride it. The problem with the dh bike is that its a real flaming pain in the arse for anything non shuttle assisted. So hunting back country steep isn't and option on the rig.

So.... Voima is going to fit in the DH bike with a motor to get back up the hill category. So I don't mind the extra slackness. The bike isn't there for pedaling the flat. It's there to smash steep mountains both up and down.

I hadn't thought about buying a 27.5 configured rim sensor locally. But that makes perfect sense. Its a shame Pole don't officially offer a mullet config out of the factory. Its a bloody pain to rebuild, get sensors changed after buying the bike.

 

[mustclime]

Like the bike but the top tube is to high on the smallest size….. tall people never think about top tube hight.

 

[Plummet]

A couple things, you can a get raw race id frameset without the protective film, (that’s what I ordered). You just need to ask for it and they’ll take the film off of the order and adjust the cost accordingly. You can also order it with the rotor magnet/swingarm sensor as opposed to the rim magnet, which I’ve heard is easier to change the rear wheel diameter with at the dealer. With the rim magnet, it’s more complicated to change even at the dealer, but it can be done because I had it done on my old one.

You must be special or something. Because this is the response I get when asking for changes to the online specs.

"Unfortunately, we're not able to do any of these upgrades or downgrades. All specifications on both the Voima LED Express and Voima ID Race Pack are set as shown on the website and cannot be modified"

I've made my decision. I'll grab a LED complete on runout special. I really wanted the race motor ID edition. But with all the extra accessories you have to pay for it made the bike prohibitively expensive for me. I then looked at buying a cheaper alternative bike like a whyte E180.

But why the hell not get the fy 22 voima?

I'm not precious about the controller. I would really like the 300g lighter frame. But what I would like more is another smaller size battery. So I will be looking either a 625 or 500 and using adapters to make the battery spacing work.

 

[Paul Mac]

You must be special or something. Because this is the response I get when asking for changes to the online specs.

"Unfortunately, we're not able to do any of these upgrades or downgrades. All specifications on both the Voima LED Express and Voima ID Race Pack are set as shown on the website and cannot be modified"

I've made my decision. I'll grab a LED complete on runout special. I really wanted the race motor ID edition. But with all the extra accessories you have to pay for it made the bike prohibitively expensive for me. I then looked at buying a cheaper alternative bike like a whyte E180.

But why the hell not get the fy 22 voima?

I'm not precious about the controller. I would really like the 300g lighter frame. But what I would like more is another smaller size battery. So I will be looking either a 625 or 500 and using adapters to make the battery spacing work.

What size did you go for in the end?
I noticed Pole are offering a size K0 now.

 

[Plummet]

What size did you go for in the end?
I noticed Pole are offering a size K0 now.

K1 is the size for me. After a long agonizing though experiment and testing....

Side note. I almost bought a K1 second hand with a race motor in it.... one of the ex pro's bikes. But thought I wanted the warrantee more than the race motor. The standard CX is plenty grunty enough for me.

 

[Paul Mac]

K1 is the size for me. After a long agonizing though experiment and testing....

Side note. I almost bought a K1 second hand with a race motor in it.... one of the ex pro's bikes. But thought I wanted the warrantee more than the race motor. The standard CX is plenty grunty enough for me.

Same here still awaiting news of my K1, got a garage full of bits waiting for it

 

[Onetime]

Same here still awaiting news of my K1, got a garage full of bits waiting for it

You and me both brother. I emailed Chris Wright last week and he said the K1’s would be shipping starting this week, but I’ve yet to receive my email notification that mine is on the way. When the full bike race ID was offered, but not the race ID frameset, I asked Chris about making a race ID frameset available for those who wanted their own build spec with the race motor and axles, he took that request to the decision makers and they agreed and it became available. Unfortunately I didn’t immediately order my frameset, I had to wait until I sold my old one, per the wife’s instructions. So mine was ordered on March 8th and paid in full on the 10th. So I’m not sure where I am at on the K1 list. My original K1 was serial #2 K1 off of the assembly line. Anyway I’m thinking i should be near the top of the K1 list of orders in order of payment, but I’m not sure. And Plummet, the raw frame shouldn’t be required to have the full wrap like the storm gray or gold, so I’m not sure who you spoke to, but if you can get ahold of Chris Wright and tell him you want the k1 race ID in raw, but without the full wrap, he would take care of you.

 

[Plummet]

And Plummet, the raw frame shouldn’t be required to have the full wrap like the storm gray or gold, so I’m not sure who you spoke to, but if you can get ahold of Chris Wright and tell him you want the k1 race ID in raw, but without the full wrap, he would take care of you.

Chris was the one that told me no.... but I was looking at complete build not frame set only.

I'm not getting an ID. I've hit go on a LED at run out special. Race Frame and complete build was too expensive and outside my budget.

I decided that I didn't mind the led controller that much and will be spending the money saved on the run out special towards the changes I will be making. I also decided the race motor was a nice to have if I got it at a reasonable upgrade cost. But at $4500 nzd more than the LED on run out special it was off the cards.

Mullet wheel set, ext rear shock. perhaps triple clamps

Now i'm pondering tripple clamp. I really want a Dorado but they are heavy, not in stock in nz and really expensive. So I am having an internal battle between fox40 or boxxer.

I am also very interested in procuring a lighter lower Wh batter and retrofitting it.

 

[Onetime]

Chris was the one that told me no.... but I was looking at complete build not frame set only.

I'm not getting an ID. I've hit go on a LED at run out special. Race Frame and complete build was too expensive and outside my budget.

I decided that I didn't mind the led controller that much and will be spending the money saved on the run out special towards the changes I will be making. I also decided the race motor was a nice to have if I got it at a reasonable upgrade cost. But at $4500 nzd more than the LED on run out special it was off the cards.

Mullet wheel set, ext rear shock. perhaps triple clamps

Now i'm pondering tripple clamp. I really want a Dorado but they are heavy, not in stock in nz and really expensive. So I am having an internal battle between fox40 or boxxer.

I am also very interested in procuring a lighter lower Wh batter and retrofitting it.

Congratulations bro! You’re going to love it. And I maybe partial, but I’d take the 40 over the boxxer.

 

[Plummet]

Congratulations bro! You’re going to love it. And I maybe partial, but I’d take the 40 over the boxxer.

Well i'm usually a Fox man. But I do have a boxxer on my DH rig and it works fine. Fox 40 factory is $500NZD more....

 

[BigG]

Can’t recommend dorado at all, unless you really like noodle twisting self-steering front end. Might be ok for lighter riders though. But if you are 90+kg or seek air time - I’d say avoid. Especially great if it shits oil on your brake, seen it happen couple of times with old 26” models.

 

[Paul Mac]

You and me both brother. I emailed Chris Wright last week and he said the K1’s would be shipping starting this week, but I’ve yet to receive my email notification that mine is on the way. When the full bike race ID was offered, but not the race ID frameset, I asked Chris about making a race ID frameset available for those who wanted their own build spec with the race motor and axles, he took that request to the decision makers and they agreed and it became available. Unfortunately I didn’t immediately order my frameset, I had to wait until I sold my old one, per the wife’s instructions. So mine was ordered on March 8th and paid in full on the 10th. So I’m not sure where I am at on the K1 list. My original K1 was serial #2 K1 off of the assembly line. Anyway I’m thinking i should be near the top of the K1 list of orders in order of payment, but I’m not sure. And Plummet, the raw frame shouldn’t be required to have the full wrap like the storm gray or gold, so I’m not sure who you spoke to, but if you can get ahold of Chris Wright and tell him you want the k1 race ID in raw, but without the full wrap, he would take care of you.

Just had a call from Chris (Pole) this morning, the K1's are delayed because of QC issues.

 

[Onetime]

Just had a call from Chris (Pole) this morning, the K1's are delayed because of QC issues.

Oh nooooo!!! Did he say how long the delays would be or when they would resume production and shipping?

 

[Paul Mac]

Oh nooooo!!! Did he say how long the delays would be or when they would resume production and shipping?

He said he hopes they will be resumed next week

 

[Onetime]

He said he hopes they will be resumed next week

 

[losgatosgtr]

Excuse my dumb question please. Why do you want the raw aluminum without the protective film applied?

 

[Plummet]

Excuse my dumb question please. Why do you want the raw aluminum without the protective film applied?

Cost. Colour change and protective film costs an extra $400euro. That's $725 nzd. That is far too much money imo.

I have roll of 3m protective film. I'll spend a couple of hours cutting and applying my own and save $700.

I'll be honest, I would much prefer storm grey. But not so much that I'll pay $700 difference. Thar $700 will go towards a ext coil shock.

 

[losgatosgtr]

Ride wrap has a pre cut kit for the Voima and it is $125 USD. Pole Voima // RideWrap Tailored Protection™ Frame Kit - RideWrap

I have wrapped 6 bikes in total including one where I made templates myself and cut out the film and I would highly suggest using a pre cut kit if available. Even with a good pre cut kit it still takes a few hours to wrap a new frame with good lighting and properly mixed slip and stick solution. Good luck.

I have no affiliation with ride wrap but have used the kits on several bikes.

 

[Onetime]

Ride wrap has a pre cut kit for the Voima and it is $125 USD. Pole Voima // RideWrap Tailored Protection™ Frame Kit - RideWrap

I have wrapped 6 bikes in total including one where I made templates myself and cut out the film and I would highly suggest using a pre cut kit if available. Even with a good pre cut kit it still takes a few hours to wrap a new frame with good lighting and properly mixed slip and stick solution. Good luck.

I have no affiliation with ride wrap but have used the kits on several bikes.

Yeah, different strokes I guess, but I don’t really like wrap covering my whole frame. I understand the wrap for the gold or storm grey frames, but I had a raw frame with no wrap and it was fine. Even when you get no wrap, it still comes with wrap on the battery cover and on the inside of the lower linkage Which is all that’s really necessary to me. I don’t like thick clear plastic covering my whole bike. It reminds me of old folks that used to keep plastic covering on their couches and lamp shades In the old days. I like the bare metal showing and if it gets some battle scars along the way, I’m ok with it. It just adds character. Also scratches on the raw frame don’t really show like they would on the gold or storm grey.

 

[Plummet]

Ride wrap has a pre cut kit for the Voima and it is $125 USD. Pole Voima // RideWrap Tailored Protection™ Frame Kit - RideWrap

I have wrapped 6 bikes in total including one where I made templates myself and cut out the film and I would highly suggest using a pre cut kit if available. Even with a good pre cut kit it still takes a few hours to wrap a new frame with good lighting and properly mixed slip and stick solution. Good luck.

I have no affiliation with ride wrap but have used the kits on several bikes.

I kind of agree with one time. There is less need on a raw alloy frame.

I have invisi-framed 3 bikes and manually cut and applied maybe 15 more.

Yeah, it is a pain in the arse. And it will take 2-3 hours. But that $700 saving has paid for half the upgrade to the ext shock.

If the upgrade cost was sub $200 I would have gone for it. It's just too expensive.