Was that on the Levo?
Vitus E-Sommet VR
- Thread starter Iain at the back
- Start date
No it was on my stumpy but they do do ebike training at pedalabikeaway
I'm actually really enjoying the new learning curve in tranferring skills to the Ebike.
LolYou E bikers and your own special spellings
davosaurusrex
E*POWAH Master
When are you heading to Finale ccrdave? Slim chance but I'm driving over with the family and will be down the road from 12th 19th August, could take it with us if the stars align
Thats a very kind offer mate thank you but i think we are going in june. It looks like we can hire batteries there so problem might have gone away
davosaurusrex
E*POWAH Master
No worries Dave, that's a result then!
davosaurusrex
E*POWAH Master
davosaurusrex
E*POWAH Master
So here's my bike with 2.8 Minion on the back, not masses of clearance but decent
davosaurusrex
E*POWAH Master
And here's the 6000 shifter fitted with Reverb 1x remote. Unfortunately it seems that the Guide RE have different clamps to the Guides so the MMX adaptor doesn't fit, not sure if SRAM make a compatible version. However this setup works well for me although I have big hands, others might want to swap the dropper and brake position to move the brake lever a bit further inboard
Ah... seems a lot more usable fitted in that configuration.
Guide RE/RS etc have 2 styles of clamp. you simply need the MMX split hinged style. they're sold separately at RRP 19.99 but can be found for around £12-13 .online.
what drop reverb do you have fitted? (and what's your inside leg measurement?)
and what was the lower inside of your seattube like? mine has a reinforcing ring/weld stopping the post being inserted below the bottom of the actual tube. I'm wondering if yours is the same being a larger frame size. it stops the post fouling the shock but if it weren't there I could have run a 170/150mm post fine. I did (later) think a shimmed 30.9 post might slide through ok. can't really be bothered with the faff now to go back and test this out.
Guide RE/RS etc have 2 styles of clamp. you simply need the MMX split hinged style. they're sold separately at RRP 19.99 but can be found for around £12-13 .online.
what drop reverb do you have fitted? (and what's your inside leg measurement?)
and what was the lower inside of your seattube like? mine has a reinforcing ring/weld stopping the post being inserted below the bottom of the actual tube. I'm wondering if yours is the same being a larger frame size. it stops the post fouling the shock but if it weren't there I could have run a 170/150mm post fine. I did (later) think a shimmed 30.9 post might slide through ok. can't really be bothered with the faff now to go back and test this out.
davosaurusrex
E*POWAH Master
Cheers, will try it like this but if I do want to move the brake lever slightly left I might get one
170mm Reverb, 36" inside leg. Think you can see from the photo I could run a 200mm dropper. One slightly annoying thing is that because the hose is cable tied to stop it fouling the shock you can't drop the post down to the clamp to get it right out of the way as I like to do at bike parks etc. Well, you can but risk kinking the hose which was what CRC had done with mine when they packed it, kinked the BrandX cable badly enough that the post wouldn't stay up when sat on.
Just been and shone a torch up the bottom of the tube and slid a small allen key up but can't find a reinforcing ring (this is all sounding a bit dodgy...) - you sure it's not just weld penetration blocking it?
Regarding running the new hose through I'll admit that I forgot about the Reverb hose barb doodad but after dropping the motor I found that the cable has been run through a foam tube to stop it rattling. Even with nothing tied on the other end it took a fair yank to pull the BrandX outer out, I suspect that the foam tube compresses and makes it hard to move the hose/cable outer. All I can suggest is that anyone else trying it uses the red connector and tries to pull one end whilst pushing the other extremely gently. There is also a dead-end at the bottom of the downtube where the motor sits so once the cables are detached there is very little chance of fishing another one through, I'm an electrician by trade so pretty good at fishing cables, I gave up and dropped the motor.
The other thing to note is that the cable entries at the top of the downtube have one each side for a 5mm hydraulic hose and one only big enough for a 4mm cable outer. To keep the hose running around the headtube I had to use a Dremel and sanding bit to open the hole out. So yeah, as dropper installs go it was a faff
170mm Reverb, 36" inside leg. Think you can see from the photo I could run a 200mm dropper. One slightly annoying thing is that because the hose is cable tied to stop it fouling the shock you can't drop the post down to the clamp to get it right out of the way as I like to do at bike parks etc. Well, you can but risk kinking the hose which was what CRC had done with mine when they packed it, kinked the BrandX cable badly enough that the post wouldn't stay up when sat on.
Just been and shone a torch up the bottom of the tube and slid a small allen key up but can't find a reinforcing ring (this is all sounding a bit dodgy...) - you sure it's not just weld penetration blocking it?
Regarding running the new hose through I'll admit that I forgot about the Reverb hose barb doodad but after dropping the motor I found that the cable has been run through a foam tube to stop it rattling. Even with nothing tied on the other end it took a fair yank to pull the BrandX outer out, I suspect that the foam tube compresses and makes it hard to move the hose/cable outer. All I can suggest is that anyone else trying it uses the red connector and tries to pull one end whilst pushing the other extremely gently. There is also a dead-end at the bottom of the downtube where the motor sits so once the cables are detached there is very little chance of fishing another one through, I'm an electrician by trade so pretty good at fishing cables, I gave up and dropped the motor.
The other thing to note is that the cable entries at the top of the downtube have one each side for a 5mm hydraulic hose and one only big enough for a 4mm cable outer. To keep the hose running around the headtube I had to use a Dremel and sanding bit to open the hole out. So yeah, as dropper installs go it was a faff
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davosaurusrex
E*POWAH Master
could be. will a post slide right through yours?
you have 3" on my legs so i've less room to play with.
I'm out on the bike again tonight so after washing it I'll remove the shock (and maybe the rocker) and take a proper look
No im not but we are considerong buying one and i wondered what will happen if you are in deep mud or riding through bracken or such where it could get knocked out of line
Yes. it has been twisting round out of line on mine. I'm not entirely sure it'd due to getting caught on anything. Initally I thought it might be due to spoke unwind as they are factory built wheels. it's only happend twice. the first time was during one of it's first rides and on national standard DH tracks at full chat rather than on any sort of trails where something was likely to catch the magnet. Last night I noticed it had moved about 30deg out of line. Again on steep rough trails where it's very unlikely anything would have caught the magnet.
Take a spoke key and tighten the spoke a quarter turn and back slightly then tension the spoke by grabbing the adjacent spoke and squeezing the two together. this should seat the spoke and get rid of the wind up. often with a slight twang.
Yeah. the power cut out the first time and became laggy would be how i'd describe it lastnight.
The wheels are built nice and true but aren't tensioned as tight as I would and definitely have a little wind up all over.
I generally re-tension all my wheels after initial use but just haven't goten round to doing it yet as I've been busy with other things or out riding rather a lot.
i've seen other bikes where the magnet attaches to two spokes. this may be a better solution.
The wheels are built nice and true but aren't tensioned as tight as I would and definitely have a little wind up all over.
I generally re-tension all my wheels after initial use but just haven't goten round to doing it yet as I've been busy with other things or out riding rather a lot.
i've seen other bikes where the magnet attaches to two spokes. this may be a better solution.
Iam with you there Dave 3 tokens in my 160 lyric they came with 3 . I find the initial compliance us much better riding on rough chattery surfaces . And I like the ramp up on drops etc . We’re all finding the same including daughters boyfriend who is a seriously quick and skilled rider with great suspension set up experience . I suffer with carpel tunnel wrist problems that cause my fingers to go numb and the 3 tokens helps a lot to relive that . I’ve tried one two and 3 so far in both pikes and the lyric on my ebike .
I guess the ramp up device could be the way to go , but I think I’ll try the new modified 2019 internals when I comes to service time for £40 ish quid it’s bit be worth a go
@Kernow You do realise the more travel, the less tokens are required for that, though eh?and that a Pike's set up preference is not comparable to a Lyrik's. and that suspension preference is just that, A personal preference. and that two very similar fast skilled riders may not want the same suspension set-up.
Which is then? The word according to Gary or a personal preference?
Yes I realise all that , and a linear spring is often preferred , I think for me a heavier rider more tokens is allowing me me to run less pressure which makes the early part of the stroke more complient which helps my numb hand problems , the ramping up on bigger hits is also an advantage for a heavier rider , or a rider who hits things harder . I know it goes against much thinking but I have tried no tokens one token and the two that is standard . And more seems the best feel for me . I have yet to try 4 tokens in the lyric . I always preferred multi rate springs to linear on motorbikes , although the purists will always say a linear spring rate is best although it doesn’t deal with changing concitions as well The adjustable ramp up control would give me all choices , but I expect it would find one setting and stay there in the end
As you say it’s all personal,choice , I seem to run a lot less damping than is recommended too.
After tonight's ride I had a little maintenance to do. Drive side crank had play. I'm not surprised TBH. the bike has had hard use and all shimano cranks other than saint (which I run on most of my other bikes) do this. The pinch bolts torqued correctly just don't hold. Saints have a little more material there and can be torqued a little more. overtorqueing their less robust cranks causes the alu to stretch and it just gets worse. I've readjusted the pre-load and torqued the pinch bolts but will be keeping an eye on them. I may try some carbon paste or threadlock.
Does anyone know if the hollowtech (as in hollow arm) E8000 series crank arms have any more meat in this area?
The BrandX post has developed a little sag. So once I sort out longer dropper that'll be going back for warranty. It's a little annoyinh but I can live with it.
while I had the post out to inspect it I dropped the shock from the rocker to take a proper look at what's going on inside the seat tube.
What I found was weld all round the inside down at the bottom, a few spots clearly put there to stop the seatpost dropping through onto the shock.
The seat tube only has 130mm of insertion max.
Sorry. I'm no David Bailey but if you click on the image it should be obvious enough.
Anyway. looks like my only option for a longer seatpost is to ream/dremmel the seat tube (I'll need to call CRC to find out how this'd affect warranty) or swap out my 170mm OneUp for a 150mm (I haven't had time to send it back yet)
The rest of the bike is holding up well
Does anyone know if the hollowtech (as in hollow arm) E8000 series crank arms have any more meat in this area?
The BrandX post has developed a little sag. So once I sort out longer dropper that'll be going back for warranty. It's a little annoyinh but I can live with it.
while I had the post out to inspect it I dropped the shock from the rocker to take a proper look at what's going on inside the seat tube.
What I found was weld all round the inside down at the bottom, a few spots clearly put there to stop the seatpost dropping through onto the shock.
The seat tube only has 130mm of insertion max.
Sorry. I'm no David Bailey but if you click on the image it should be obvious enough.
Anyway. looks like my only option for a longer seatpost is to ream/dremmel the seat tube (I'll need to call CRC to find out how this'd affect warranty) or swap out my 170mm OneUp for a 150mm (I haven't had time to send it back yet)
The rest of the bike is holding up well
Just back from a few hours ride after work at Glentress. Was originally going to ride steep stuff up the Golfie but got slotted in tomorrows uplifts last minute so wanted to ride somewhere with less braking so I'm fresh for tomorrow. Rode a bit of the black, some off-piste enduro stages, spent 20 minutes in the freeride area dialing in tables and whips. Weirdly I was too worried about the cranks not being there to do any no foot stuff. I need to get over that really. :/ finished off with more off-piste and a blue/red mix of descents to finish.
Absolutely loving this bike.
Oh. meant to say. I'm running the fork stiffer than previously. about 8psi more than my other lyrik on the Capra and have left the one stock token in (but it still sags slightly more than the other fork). felt way better jumping and was still great in the chop. Obviously slightly less small bump compliance but I can cope with that. Really happy with the rear suspension performance on this bike too.
Oh. and the spoke that holds the magnet keeps twisting. It's absolutely definitely happenning because the rear wheel's not stiff enough for the riding I'm doing on them. I landed one fairly big whip and didn't bring the back in quite in time and straight after I saw it had twisted 90deg. I'll get round to re-tensioning the wheel soon and I think I'll loctite that one spoke in place at the end of the build
@R120 what alternative magnets did you find? I searched but didn't see anything interesting
Absolutely loving this bike.
Oh. meant to say. I'm running the fork stiffer than previously. about 8psi more than my other lyrik on the Capra and have left the one stock token in (but it still sags slightly more than the other fork). felt way better jumping and was still great in the chop. Obviously slightly less small bump compliance but I can cope with that. Really happy with the rear suspension performance on this bike too.
Oh. and the spoke that holds the magnet keeps twisting. It's absolutely definitely happenning because the rear wheel's not stiff enough for the riding I'm doing on them. I landed one fairly big whip and didn't bring the back in quite in time and straight after I saw it had twisted 90deg. I'll get round to re-tensioning the wheel soon and I think I'll loctite that one spoke in place at the end of the build
@R120 what alternative magnets did you find? I searched but didn't see anything interesting
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- Thread starter
- #150
The only alternative magnets I have found are the Bosch one or the Cateye, but I'm not sure if they will work or not. I did order the Cateye magnet as a backup in case one came off mid ride, but I haven't had cause to use it yet.
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