Trek RIB Battery Alignment Procedure

[MsO]

I had the same problem the 2 screws that hold the lock in place are made of a soft metal that you can't get them tight enough to hold the battery in place I replaced these with 2 more harder metal screws and haven't had a problem since

 

[rigavaz]

Have you guys seen this manual released for Powerflys? It talks about old and new lock mechanism and explains changing procedure...

https://trek.scene7.com/is/content/TrekBicycleProducts/TK20_2021_PowerflyFS_Manual_USEN.pdf

is this coming for the Rails?

 

[Jumbleross]

Cheers Rigavaz, Glad to see they have finally done something about this issue and looking at the diagram the bracket kind of makes sense to ensure the connector is always mated with the battery even when there can be flex in the frame, let’s hope they do release a bracket for the rail.-

 

[deserthi]

Apparently there is a PDF file that explains how to adjust the battery latches. Does anyone know where to get this? Thanks
I found it but I really don't understand how to align it after reading through the PDF

 

[Sophie777]

Apparently there is a PDF file that explains how to adjust the battery latches. Does anyone know where to get this? Thanks
I found it but I really don't understand how to align it after reading through the PDF

I wish Trek would make a video on how to do this alignment.

 

[tobster]

I wish Trek would make a video on how to do this alignment.

Trek probably hope or expect you to take your bike to your LBS to do the adjustment. The adjustment is fairly straightforward but a little fiddly. I have had no further issues since adjusting mine. Go for it

 

[MsO]

When I had my trek I had to have a new frame cause of the battery wouldn't align after a while same thing happened the battery would stick out a bit from the frame the 2 main locking nuts that hold the lock in place are made from a soft metal you can't get them tight enough before they round off I just replaced those nuts with better ones tightened it right up I didn't move at all after that

 

[tobster]

When I had my trek I had to have a new frame cause of the battery wouldn't align after a while same thing happened the battery would stick out a bit from the frame the 2 main locking nuts that hold the lock in place are made from a soft metal you can't get them tight enough before they round off I just replaced those nuts with better ones tightened it right up I didn't move at all after that

Absolutely replace the crappy single use torx screws with proper allen bolts. I'm slowly working my way through the bike replacing any original "plastic" bolts that I have to remove with metal ones

 

[deserthi]

I just replaced those nuts with better ones

Better ones, My Home Depot has only one choice of 5m lock nuts. Is that what you call better ones? If not, is there a linked for better ones?

 

[Sophie777]

The Trek RIB Battery Alignment Procedure .pdf shows six T25 bolts: four T25 bolts at the top of the downtube, and two T25 bolts at the bottom of the downtube.

Are those the bolts you guys are saying we should replace with allen bolts?

And what is the equivalent size of the allen bolts we need to get? And should they be steel or aluminum (or other)?

Thanks!!

 

[Jumbleross]

We’ll my Rail 9.7 saga continues, 6 months into my new frame and the problem has arisen again. I went to my super helpful LBS and he thinks it could be the lower battery bracket that has come lose then over time, then with Peak District mud has slowly ground the plastic down to the point where it rattles again and puts strain on the battery connector so it disconnects when going through the full travel of the suspension. We put one of his hire bike batteries in my bike and I took it for a spin up some really bumpy tracks, sitting on the bike while going over rocks and down dips to use the full travel and the power didn’t go off. Hopefully a £7 bracket will fix the issue ??If you look at the photos you’ll see one side of the plastic is rough and worn down by about 3mm

 

[GL1]

Well, mine started doing this but after 2500 miles. Cutting out; meaning screen goes dead; on choppy descents. Sometimes it also would just go from whatever mode I was in to off but the screen would stay on. Annoying as all get out.

I did the adjustment (and nearly stripped one of the frame security bolts in the process but got it out and replaced them with small similar sized allens which yes, I can tighten and manage way better.) Anyway, I did that and ALSO tried some foam on the inside of the frame (like 1mm thick.) That seemed to really firm it up in the frame and so far so good. I also added a little dielectric grease to the contacts.

I will say though, one thing is that if I get this working again where it's not cutting out, I'm going to try to NOT take the battery out much from here on out and just charge it with it in the frame. In the winters I like to take it out to store it inside so we'll see but temps are warmer from here on out.

 

[Jumbleross]

Bottom line is that the RIB design does not cater for any flex or mis alignment in the frame which is normal for a mountain bike. The bigger the frame and heavier the combined bike and rider are the more the flex. Selling mine and getting the new Levo SL when it come out in the summer.

 

[GL1]

Bottom line is that the RIB design does not cater for any flex or mis alignment in the frame which is normal for a mountain bike. The bigger the frame and heavier the combined bike and rider are the more the flex. Selling mine and getting the new Levo SL when it come out in the summer.

Okay, so in all honesty I own the Powerfly, a 2019 Kenevo and a 2020 Levo. HANDS DOWN the 2020 Levo is my favorite in ALL ways!

I have it setup mullet and love it! I know they've had some motor issues but I made 2800 on mine and got the warranty motor no problem. Also, I have looked and I think the belt is easy to fix in the future once it's out of warranty. But the new ones (and even my warranty motor) are supposed to have that issue remedied along with firmware updates. And of course the 700w battery makes a HUGE difference. I have done 5000k, 60 mile rides on it.

Mine is full strength but the SL intrigues me. I have ridden with guys that have them. Very cool being a bit lighter and nimble and you can get the extension pack as well for the longer rides.

 

[GL1]

UPDATING POST. Everything I tired to align and secure the battery had no effect. Despite the battery being a LOT more solid and not moving at all that I could tell (by adding foam and such to take up the dead space,) one ride resulted in 30+ disconnection, dead screen or losing the mode it was in and going to OFF. Arrrrghhhh! So, I'm focusing on the connection and seeking out a Trek dealer etc.

 

[Jumbleross]

Bottom line is that the RIB design does not cater for any flex or mis alignment in the frame which is normal for a mountain bike. The bigger the frame and heavier the combined bike and rider are the more the flex. Selling mine and getting the new Levo SL when it come out in the summer.
[/QUOT

Okay, so after some more fiddling here is what I came up with that works!

1) Do the fix per the instructions. Make sure it's aligned per the instructions toward the outside of the frame to make a consistent gap and flush with the outside of the frame. Make sure ALL top and bottom bolts are tight (internal and external security torx.)

2) Use electric connection cleaner (available at the auto parts store) and clean both the battery and plug in the bike. I then used canned air to blow that out and dry it quickly.

3) Put a light coat of dielectric grease on the bike / male connections.

4) Add some soft, sticky foam and / or cheap double sided / mounting tape that is about 1-3 mm thick along the back side of the frame and the bottom of the frame on the sides of the cables and in the top corners as well. Basically cover the back of the frame and all four corners especially. (Just Hobby Lobby / Walmart stuff and just leave the other side covered with the film it comes with.) Just make a cushion in there for the battery to press against on the back side and lay on plus one at top so it can't rattle upward much either. You're just trying to take up space and give it something to rest against / on. Take a look at your battery when it's out and you can see why this helps. There is a TON of space there that promotes rattling and movement and it does NOT fit tight into the frame at all but rather sits suspended like a spit / skewer between the upper mounting plates and the lower connection plate. And, as such, it can really rattle loose and especially over time as it's really only affixed at both ends and the battery is heavy. So this helps to eliminate it being suspended like that and give the battery something to rest against and on, thus taking the weight and movement out of it against the mounting plate and connection plate.

This made my gaps perfect and there is ZERO movement in any direction. If you have ANY movement in the battery (if you can move it up or down or in our out with your hand) you will risk losing connection.

And FINALLY, try NOT to take the battery out a lot after you do all of this. Just charge it in the bike as much as you can. I plan to only take mine out for long storage or winter etc.

But ya, problem solved even over the roughest / choppiest of terrain! These should have had some kind of rubber or something to rest and stay tight against all along. You just can't have a heavy battery secured predominantly at the ends that can rattle around in there. Look at the design on others. Spec etc. They are held solid and tight (and of course use a side plug as well which also would have maybe benefited this design.) The side loading with the internal bottom plug is cool but over the long haul this is not the design for rough terrain it's just too loose...commuting maybe.


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some great tips there thanks, it’s a shame we have to go to such great lengths to rectify a design flaw but I guess they are still learning with the design of ebikes

 

[GL1]

Well...I just updated my last post. Though I stand by doing all of the things I documented in my post above...on today's ride the connectivity issue came back with a vengeance. Once again, the screen either goes entirely off OR, it will go down to OFF. It's about 50/50 on which it will do. Again, it is doing it on ANY kind of choppy or bumpy terrain, even uphill on technical climbs which is fun to have it cut out when you're climbing up and over some big rock. So IDK. Back to the drawing board. VERY FRUSTRATED! I'm going to mess with the wheel sensor a bit too because why sometimes does it just bump down to OFF and but keep the display on? This makes me think sometimes it's not actually losing connectivity with the battery? IDK. But half the time the display goes completely off which I do think is the battery connection. Over 20 miles it probably happened 30x. That REALLY affects the riding experience to say the least.

Being a Kenevo & Levo owner, I'm feeling frustrated with what I'm seeing (or not seeing with this issue with Trek.) The Levo's had their own motor / belt issue but when mine finally went at 2800 miles I took it into a local Spec dealer (not even where I bought it) and had it back three days later with zero charge and a brand new and apparently updated motor. Easy peezy. THAT's customer service and makes me feel a LOT better about dropping the thousands these things cost to be covered like that. Even second or third owners were getting that kind of treatment for the motor issue for up to 4 years! I had a battery issue once too on the Levo. Same deal. 3 day turn around and no charge.

So this is a $6k 2019 Trek and is basically only good for commuting now. BUT, I have not yet taken it to a Trek dealer so I'm going to seek one out and at least let them see it. I'm not the original owner and the warranty states it is NOT transferable beyond the original owner so we shall see. I'll give Trek a chance anyway.

 

[Jumbleross]

Well...I just updated my last post. Though I stand by doing all of the things I documented in my post above...on today's ride the connectivity issue came back with a vengeance. Once again, the screen either goes entirely off OR, it will go down to OFF. It's about 50/50 on which it will do. Again, it is doing it on ANY kind of choppy or bumpy terrain, even uphill on technical climbs which is fun to have it cut out when you're climbing up and over some big rock. So IDK. Back to the drawing board. VERY FRUSTRATED! I'm going to mess with the wheel sensor a bit too because why sometimes does it just bump down to OFF and but keep the display on? This makes me think sometimes it's not actually losing connectivity with the battery? IDK. But half the time the display goes completely off which I do think is the battery connection. Over 20 miles it probably happened 30x. That REALLY affects the riding experience to say the least.

Being a Kenevo & Levo owner, I'm feeling frustrated with Trek. The Levo's had their own motor / belt issue but when mine finally went at 2800 miles I took it into a local Spec dealer (not even where I bought it) and had it back three days later with zero charge and a brand new and apparently updated motor. Easy peezy. THAT's customer service and makes me feel a LOT better about dropping the thousands these things cost to be covered like that. Even second or third owners were getting that kind of treatment for the motor issue for up to 4 years! I had a battery issue once too on the Levo. Same deal. 3 day turn around and no charge.

So this is a $6k 2019 Trek and is basically only good for commuting now and as far as I can see I have nowhere to take it to get this ultimately fixed and certainly not without spending a fortune and basically "throwing" parts at it like some of you are doing. So, though I bought this used from a neighbor, it's a lesson to me in staying with Spec in the future because these things are "development-in-progress" bikes which is fine BUT I at least want a company that's going to stand by the thing for a reasonable amount of time and for the cost of these things. I looked and warranty is only good for the original owner for 2 years from purchase. Compare that to the Spec that is transferable an for 4 years (on the motor issue where they knew they had an issue...much like this battery situation with the Treks.) Sorry but Trek just can't stand up to that. And, it's a bummer bc overall there are some great things about the bike and it's at 2500 miles and other than this (admittedly kind of big issue,) it's still rocking great. But what is it now? An expensive commuter. I couldn't even sell it in good conscience with this issue going on. Oh well at least I bought mine used. I feel for you guys that bought these new and aren't getting the support you deserve.

Sorry to hear you’re bodges didn’t work mate Can’t you get your neighbour to send it back for warranty failure analysis? The Bosch system is 2 years but route cause is the frame misalignment and frame has a lifetime warranty. Any shop dealing in Trek should be able to handle the case for you as they get paid my Trek for any work carried out under warranty.

 

[Mr_Price]

@GL1 have you seen this thread?
RAIL 9.7 SHUTTING OFF...FINALLY FIXED??

 

[Jumbleross]

@GL1 have you seen this thread?
RAIL 9.7 SHUTTING OFF...FINALLY FIXED??

Yes I had the metal brace fitted which fixed the issue for a while but the problem came back again. I guess if the frame is misaligned it will enventually twist the brace as it’s made of very thin aluminium.

 

[Mr_Price]

Huh. Hoping to get the brace soon. My LBS just replaced the wiring harness under warranty from Bosch. Whenever they open it up and re-torque everything it works great for a ride or too. Only been for one ride and it was super mellow, no cut outs. Going to test it properly tomorrow.

 

[Jumbleross]

Huh. Hoping to get the brace soon. My LBS just replaced the wiring harness under warranty from Bosch. Whenever they open it up and re-torque everything it works great for a ride or too. Only been for one ride and it was super mellow, no cut outs. Going to test it properly tomorrow.

I have strapped 2 cable ties and and an Velcro strap round the down tube at the bottom of the battery which seems to reduced the number of shut offs but not totally eliminated it. Thing is tho I think eventually it will put more strain in the connectors and damage them

 

[GL1]

Well I won't give up yet. I'm back on it. I'll post if I figure anything out. Diving into the actual connection now. And, I may let Trek take a look, see how they do and how their service is.

 

[GL1]

Yes I had the metal brace fitted which fixed the issue for a while but the problem came back again. I guess if the frame is misaligned it will enventually twist the brace as it’s made of very thin aluminium.

No, I had not seen that thread thank you! I wonder if I could get one of those from Trek directly? I'll maybe ask the dealer too. Ya I do NOT have that piece in mine. It seems some came with that and some didn't? Mine is carbon so you'd think it would have?

I definitely see what it does, taking up that space and giving the battery something to rest on and probably stiffening the frame a bit too along that span.

 

[Mr_Price]

My buddy had very similar issues on his Cube. He basically epoxy'd the battery in place. I'm pretty sure I could do something similar but for a $10k bike I want Trek to sort this shit out. Any other industry and this would have been an instant recall to fix. BS.

 

[GL1]

My buddy had very similar issues on his Cube. He basically epoxy'd the battery in place. I'm pretty sure I could do something similar but for a $10k bike I want Trek to sort this shit out. Any other industry and this would have been an instant recall to fix. BS.

Well and I can tell you that Spec and their motor issues were this way. Quick and no cost at all. 4 years and fully transferable. Take it to any dealer and get it back in a few days ready to rock. They just dealt with it and on an expensive part too. They wanted to get in early on the eBikes and keep their rep up and they did. I figure a fair amount of things being pushed into prod bikes are really early in the R&D process. Cool with me but then you have to figure that into the price and your warranty plan. I think when you look at the number of threads on this one, it qualifies for Trek as a big one they should be fixing. Same with Spec and their 2019-2020 motors but they responded quick and well.

Lets put it this way...when I go to buy a new eBike (which I will in the next year or so) which do you think I'll pick? I can tell you it will be one where the warranty service is there and is good.

 

[Mr_Price]

Well and I can tell you that Spec and their motor issues were this way. Quick and no cost at all. 4 years and fully transferable. Take it to any dealer and get it back in a few days ready to rock. They just dealt with it and on an expensive part too. They wanted to get in early on the eBikes and keep their rep up and they did. I figure a fair amount of things being pushed into prod bikes are really early in the R&D process. Cool with me but then you have to figure that into the price and your warranty plan. I think when you look at the number of threads on this one, it qualifies for Trek as a big one they should be fixing. Same with Spec and their 2019-2020 motors but they responded quick and well.

Lets put it this way...when I go to buy a new eBike (which I will in the next year or so) which do you think I'll pick?

Canyon

 

[GL1]

Canyon

I have looked at them. I'd have to compare warranty to Spec but I do like them.

 

[GL1]

Okay...update. So it's at the Trek Store. This is a Trek-owned bike shop in my hometown. All they sell and do is Trek. The guys there were great and said they wanted to take a look and no charge until they see what they think and do an assessment. So pleasantly surprised! I was honest about not being the original owner and they still said no prob with them taking a look anyway. I showed them the forum info on the truss, the bottom plate, etc. They nodded as I showed it to them and seemed familiar with this issue. They said if they recommend those parts (the battery truss, plates, etc.) they can get them and it shouldn't be too expensive even though I'm not the original owner. So...we will see. Will Trek stand up to Spec service? I'm holding out some hope. So even though the official written Trek warranty would say I'm out of luck based on time and NOT being the original owner, these guys made it sound like they'll at least try and take care of me and / or it won't be too expensive. So even with some charges (which I fairly expect in my situation being the second owner,) I could come out impressed by this. We'll see. I'll update and let you all know how it goes.

Like I've said, overall I like the bike. I like how it rides. I like the bosch system enough and suspension design etc. So, if they can solve this issue I'll be a Trek fanboy to some degree again.

 

[GL1]

Okay...update. So it's at the Trek Store. This is a Trek-owned bike shop in my hometown. All they sell and do is Trek. The guys there were great and said they wanted to take a look and no charge until they see what they think and do an assessment. So pleasantly surprised! I was honest about not being the original owner and they still said no prob with them taking a look anyway. I showed them the forum info on the truss, the bottom plate, etc. They nodded as I showed it to them and seemed familiar with this issue. They said if they recommend those parts (the battery truss, plates, etc.) they can get them and it shouldn't be too expensive even though I'm not the original owner. So...we will see. Will Trek stand up to Spec service? I'm holding out some hope. So even though the official written Trek warranty would say I'm out of luck based on time and NOT being the original owner, these guys made it sound like they'll at least try and take care of me and / or it won't be too expensive. So even with some charges (which I fairly expect in my situation being the second owner,) I could come out impressed by this. We'll see. I'll update and let you all know how it goes.

Like I've said, overall I like the bike. I like how it rides. I like the bosch system enough and suspension design etc. So, if they can solve this issue I'll be a Trek fanboy to some degree again.

Thought I'd add an update. I have let the Trek shop keep it a LONG time here since I have a few other bikes. But, they are working on it and rode it and were able to get it to disconnect no problem over bumps and choppy terrain.

The Trek techs at the shop say it has most certainly been an issue with these bikes. The frame rail addition was created just to help solve this issue and as such, they have ordered me one and it sounds like they will be installing it and no charge (even for me as a second owner of the bike...so that's Spec level warranty there.) If that does not do it, they will also put in a new, lower connection piece. So, they are trying and I appreciate it. More to come.

Also, I used a pick and pulled all of my battery terminal female prongs out in such a way as to give them more tension. IF YOU DO THIS be VERY CAREFUL not to make a connection between a positive and a negative. I was very cautious. there's a lot of juice in these batteries. I have worked around these for awhile so knew what not to do but do this at your own risk or avoid this if you are not sure. (Although the + and - are clearly marked on the plastic just FYI.) This seemed to help quite a bit on a few of them as they looked like they did not have as much tension against the male blades as they should have and like they had worn over time and certainly over battery in and out's. After this is fixed that is something I am going to try and avoid...taking the battery in and out very much. If I can get it set and working and not cutting out I'm leaving it.