Apparently there is a PDF file that explains how to adjust the battery latches. Does anyone know where to get this? Thanks
I found it but I really don't understand how to align it after reading through the PDF
Trek probably hope or expect you to take your bike to your LBS to do the adjustment. The adjustment is fairly straightforward but a little fiddly. I have had no further issues since adjusting mine. Go for itI wish Trek would make a video on how to do this alignment.
Absolutely replace the crappy single use torx screws with proper allen bolts. I'm slowly working my way through the bike replacing any original "plastic" bolts that I have to remove with metal onesWhen I had my trek I had to have a new frame cause of the battery wouldn't align after a while same thing happened the battery would stick out a bit from the frame the 2 main locking nuts that hold the lock in place are made from a soft metal you can't get them tight enough before they round off I just replaced those nuts with better ones tightened it right up I didn't move at all after that
I just replaced those nuts with better ones
Bottom line is that the RIB design does not cater for any flex or mis alignment in the frame which is normal for a mountain bike. The bigger the frame and heavier the combined bike and rider are the more the flex. Selling mine and getting the new Levo SL when it come out in the summer.
Bottom line is that the RIB design does not cater for any flex or mis alignment in the frame which is normal for a mountain bike. The bigger the frame and heavier the combined bike and rider are the more the flex. Selling mine and getting the new Levo SL when it come out in the summer.
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some great tips there thanks, it’s a shame we have to go to such great lengths to rectify a design flaw but I guess they are still learning with the design of ebikesOkay, so after some more fiddling here is what I came up with that works!
1) Do the fix per the instructions. Make sure it's aligned per the instructions toward the outside of the frame to make a consistent gap and flush with the outside of the frame. Make sure ALL top and bottom bolts are tight (internal and external security torx.)
2) Use electric connection cleaner (available at the auto parts store) and clean both the battery and plug in the bike. I then used canned air to blow that out and dry it quickly.
3) Put a light coat of dielectric grease on the bike / male connections.
4) Add some soft, sticky foam and / or cheap double sided / mounting tape that is about 1-3 mm thick along the back side of the frame and the bottom of the frame on the sides of the cables and in the top corners as well. Basically cover the back of the frame and all four corners especially. (Just Hobby Lobby / Walmart stuff and just leave the other side covered with the film it comes with.) Just make a cushion in there for the battery to press against on the back side and lay on plus one at top so it can't rattle upward much either. You're just trying to take up space and give it something to rest against / on. Take a look at your battery when it's out and you can see why this helps. There is a TON of space there that promotes rattling and movement and it does NOT fit tight into the frame at all but rather sits suspended like a spit / skewer between the upper mounting plates and the lower connection plate. And, as such, it can really rattle loose and especially over time as it's really only affixed at both ends and the battery is heavy. So this helps to eliminate it being suspended like that and give the battery something to rest against and on, thus taking the weight and movement out of it against the mounting plate and connection plate.
This made my gaps perfect and there is ZERO movement in any direction. If you have ANY movement in the battery (if you can move it up or down or in our out with your hand) you will risk losing connection.
And FINALLY, try NOT to take the battery out a lot after you do all of this. Just charge it in the bike as much as you can. I plan to only take mine out for long storage or winter etc.
But ya, problem solved even over the roughest / choppiest of terrain! These should have had some kind of rubber or something to rest and stay tight against all along. You just can't have a heavy battery secured predominantly at the ends that can rattle around in there. Look at the design on others. Spec etc. They are held solid and tight (and of course use a side plug as well which also would have maybe benefited this design.) The side loading with the internal bottom plug is cool but over the long haul this is not the design for rough terrain it's just too loose...commuting maybe.
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Sorry to hear you’re bodges didn’t work mate Can’t you get your neighbour to send it back for warranty failure analysis? The Bosch system is 2 years but route cause is the frame misalignment and frame has a lifetime warranty. Any shop dealing in Trek should be able to handle the case for you as they get paid my Trek for any work carried out under warranty.Well...I just updated my last post. Though I stand by doing all of the things I documented in my post above...on today's ride the connectivity issue came back with a vengeance. Once again, the screen either goes entirely off OR, it will go down to OFF. It's about 50/50 on which it will do. Again, it is doing it on ANY kind of choppy or bumpy terrain, even uphill on technical climbs which is fun to have it cut out when you're climbing up and over some big rock. So IDK. Back to the drawing board. VERY FRUSTRATED! I'm going to mess with the wheel sensor a bit too because why sometimes does it just bump down to OFF and but keep the display on? This makes me think sometimes it's not actually losing connectivity with the battery? IDK. But half the time the display goes completely off which I do think is the battery connection. Over 20 miles it probably happened 30x. That REALLY affects the riding experience to say the least.
Being a Kenevo & Levo owner, I'm feeling frustrated with Trek. The Levo's had their own motor / belt issue but when mine finally went at 2800 miles I took it into a local Spec dealer (not even where I bought it) and had it back three days later with zero charge and a brand new and apparently updated motor. Easy peezy. THAT's customer service and makes me feel a LOT better about dropping the thousands these things cost to be covered like that. Even second or third owners were getting that kind of treatment for the motor issue for up to 4 years! I had a battery issue once too on the Levo. Same deal. 3 day turn around and no charge.
So this is a $6k 2019 Trek and is basically only good for commuting now and as far as I can see I have nowhere to take it to get this ultimately fixed and certainly not without spending a fortune and basically "throwing" parts at it like some of you are doing. So, though I bought this used from a neighbor, it's a lesson to me in staying with Spec in the future because these things are "development-in-progress" bikes which is fine BUT I at least want a company that's going to stand by the thing for a reasonable amount of time and for the cost of these things. I looked and warranty is only good for the original owner for 2 years from purchase. Compare that to the Spec that is transferable an for 4 years (on the motor issue where they knew they had an issue...much like this battery situation with the Treks.) Sorry but Trek just can't stand up to that. And, it's a bummer bc overall there are some great things about the bike and it's at 2500 miles and other than this (admittedly kind of big issue,) it's still rocking great. But what is it now? An expensive commuter. I couldn't even sell it in good conscience with this issue going on. Oh well at least I bought mine used. I feel for you guys that bought these new and aren't getting the support you deserve.
Yes I had the metal brace fitted which fixed the issue for a while but the problem came back again. I guess if the frame is misaligned it will enventually twist the brace as it’s made of very thin aluminium.
I have strapped 2 cable ties and and an Velcro strap round the down tube at the bottom of the battery which seems to reduced the number of shut offs but not totally eliminated it. Thing is tho I think eventually it will put more strain in the connectors and damage themHuh. Hoping to get the brace soon. My LBS just replaced the wiring harness under warranty from Bosch. Whenever they open it up and re-torque everything it works great for a ride or too. Only been for one ride and it was super mellow, no cut outs. Going to test it properly tomorrow.
Yes I had the metal brace fitted which fixed the issue for a while but the problem came back again. I guess if the frame is misaligned it will enventually twist the brace as it’s made of very thin aluminium.
My buddy had very similar issues on his Cube. He basically epoxy'd the battery in place. I'm pretty sure I could do something similar but for a $10k bike I want Trek to sort this shit out. Any other industry and this would have been an instant recall to fix. BS.
Well and I can tell you that Spec and their motor issues were this way. Quick and no cost at all. 4 years and fully transferable. Take it to any dealer and get it back in a few days ready to rock. They just dealt with it and on an expensive part too. They wanted to get in early on the eBikes and keep their rep up and they did. I figure a fair amount of things being pushed into prod bikes are really early in the R&D process. Cool with me but then you have to figure that into the price and your warranty plan. I think when you look at the number of threads on this one, it qualifies for Trek as a big one they should be fixing. Same with Spec and their 2019-2020 motors but they responded quick and well.
Lets put it this way...when I go to buy a new eBike (which I will in the next year or so) which do you think I'll pick?
Canyon
Okay...update. So it's at the Trek Store. This is a Trek-owned bike shop in my hometown. All they sell and do is Trek. The guys there were great and said they wanted to take a look and no charge until they see what they think and do an assessment. So pleasantly surprised! I was honest about not being the original owner and they still said no prob with them taking a look anyway. I showed them the forum info on the truss, the bottom plate, etc. They nodded as I showed it to them and seemed familiar with this issue. They said if they recommend those parts (the battery truss, plates, etc.) they can get them and it shouldn't be too expensive even though I'm not the original owner. So...we will see. Will Trek stand up to Spec service? I'm holding out some hope. So even though the official written Trek warranty would say I'm out of luck based on time and NOT being the original owner, these guys made it sound like they'll at least try and take care of me and / or it won't be too expensive. So even with some charges (which I fairly expect in my situation being the second owner,) I could come out impressed by this. We'll see. I'll update and let you all know how it goes.
Like I've said, overall I like the bike. I like how it rides. I like the bosch system enough and suspension design etc. So, if they can solve this issue I'll be a Trek fanboy to some degree again.
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