tongsheng tsdz2 Vs cyc stealth

[Nashwillis]

I was wondering if any has ridden both the cyc stealth and TSDZV2 and what the difference in performance is between these motors.

mainly looking for a bike that mimics a emtb you buy off the shelf with feel and power.
I the the ground clearance and looks of the CYC but price of the Tongsheng.

 

[Waynemarlow]

Completely different motor power, the CYC is a high powered 1000W+ motor that has an open mounting forward of the BB. There's those who like the power but the downside is to get any range, you have to have big batteries and the ride is plagued by lots of noise it would seem.

The TSDZ2 is almost limited to about 500 - 650W's from the factory due to the way its fully enclosed ( with somewhat poor heat transfer from the motor to the case ) to try and get decent weather protection and a compact form. You can somewhat ignore the TSDZ2's location below the BB, in practice there seems to be as many dinks on the bottom of my more normal Emtb as I was getting on the TSDZ2.

I can't say much about the CYC as I've not ridden a converted bike with one on, but have done a lot of miles on the TSDZ2 and for its cost, its really about as good as you can get for a conversion that will get you pretty close to a branded Emtb, with the caveat of only having 500W's against 800W's from the factory motors such as Brose.

If you are prepared to get a bit more involved then the TSDZ2 has a huge DIY developers and tinkerers following and if you are at all computer savy then you can transform the motor into having virtually all the same attributes of the branded motors and in many ways a lot more with virtually every part of it available at reasonable cost and the firmware / software has been now developed to such a point as every part of the way the motor operates can be tuned to your desires. Simple heat transfer mods seems to solve the overheating at higher Wattages in the UK climes.

My own has been pretty reliable set at about 700W's max, with only a small continual battle against UK mud and water ingress that is probably no worse than many of the branded motors. Value for money its brilliant. One do not is to try and fit it to a carbon frame, not all frames have enough clearance around the BB.

 

[Mabman]

As a long time TSDZ2 user I agree with the above. For around $1k USD you can have a decent torque sensing mid drive motor with an up to date 2170 cell 48v battery of around 700wh's. As mentioned there is configurable open source programming available to tweak to ones heart's content.

Biggest problem I have had is in regards to low gear ratio's as they relate to chain line. There are options to go lower than a 42t, the smallest that will fit over the housing that also gives the best possible chainline when in the lower cogs, vs. smaller ones that sit outside the housing and have way too much load on the side of the chain....Where I notice this the most is doing uphill switchbacks where my riding buddies on factory bikes with 32t chainrings can spin around them I get torqued out more often than not.

Having recently switched over to a factory build myself I noticed right away how much better even a slightly smaller ring is for climbing at a comfortable cadence. In fact I am going to go from the stock 40t to a 32t as top end means little to me and as my bike is unrestricted will still be pedalable at over 20mph.

I would assume as you are right in their zone that EcoCycles is your source for the TS? Good folks with good prices.

 

[Waynemarlow]

Chainline is not such an issue if you select the donor frame and make a couple of changes.

The wider the tyre clearance at the rear, the greater the problem. If say you pick a frame with a max of 2.6" on the back you can run a 32T on the front ( adaptors are available to take a standard 104mm chain ring ) and typically the chain will align on the 3rd ring in on a 10spd cassette. That in itself is not an issue as most modern derailleurs and chains seem to handle that no problem and I'm not getting any worse wear than when the bike was a non Emtb.

If you want to run wider tyres / worse offset frame then some are removing some of the smaller cassette rings to create an 8spd cassette and moving the larger rings more in line, remember the motor has a lot more torque and you simply can do away with some of the smaller mid rings without loosing much on the road.

We've settled on 34T front and 11-46T on the rear with the use of a " goat link " and Shimano 10spd derailleur, seems to change pretty faultlessly and we get to use a 2.6 tyre with all 10 speeds. Seems to climb well and a great introduction to Ebiking without having to worry about speed limits ( you may want to look in the hidden menu on the standard units LCD's )

 

[Nashwillis]

Chainline is not such an issue if you select the donor frame and make a couple of changes.

The wider the tyre clearance at the rear, the greater the problem. If say you pick a frame with a max of 2.6" on the back you can run a 32T on the front ( adaptors are available to take a standard 104mm chain ring ) and typically the chain will align on the 3rd ring in on a 10spd cassette. That in itself is not an issue as most modern derailleurs and chains seem to handle that no problem and I'm not getting any worse wear than when the bike was a non Emtb.

If you want to run wider tyres / worse offset frame then some are removing some of the smaller cassette rings to create an 8spd cassette and moving the larger rings more in line, remember the motor has a lot more torque and you simply can do away with some of the smaller mid rings without loosing much on the road.

We've settled on 34T front and 11-46T on the rear with the use of a " goat link " and Shimano 10spd derailleur, seems to change pretty faultlessly and we get to use a 2.6 tyre with all 10 speeds. Seems to climb well and a great introduction to Ebiking without having to worry about speed limits ( you may want to look in the hidden menu on the standard units LCD's )

Sounds good, I would want to use a 34t I currently run 32 with 10 speeed. My only worries is the bottom clearance. I ride mostly smooth trails in my area, flow trails with jumps/drops and single track. I can only see the bottom coming in contact in tech rocky places so I should be good. my frame won’t be able to fit a battery so I am inbetween a backpack or underneath.

 

[Mabman]

Dude, here is just the template for you!

BBSHD Intense 951 Hyper E-Bike

hello all. here is my custom intense 951 Hyper E-bike build. i was gonna call it a "super" e-bike, however after looking around i have yet to see anything come close to the performance of this bike both in terms of electronics and the donner bikes mechanical specs. so its a "hyper" e-bike...

www.emtbforums.com

He used a BBSHD but you could use a TSDZ2 as well.

 

[Seraye]

I was wondering if any has ridden both the cyc stealth and TSDZV2 and what the difference in performance is between these motors.

mainly looking for a bike that mimics a emtb you buy off the shelf with feel and power.
I the the ground clearance and looks of the CYC but price of the Tongsheng.

I have owned Bosch, bafang, TSDZ2 and just acquired a CYC Stealth Gen 3. The TSDZ2 rIDes very similarly to the Bosch, but it is just not intended to be a performance motor as it overheats very easily - I am only 130lbs and pretty athletic (I set my motors to just help me feel younger and
super human but I actually enjoy pedaling) and it would overheat in a short PAS only ride that was not very hilly and less than 26mph. The TSDZ2 SETUP also had a terrible chainline (I was riding a boost spaced bike with 27.5 x 2.6). On the other hand, the CYC has a perfect chainline and plenty of power - it is loud but does not annoy me- let's just say the sound is not stealthy. I was worried about the sound- as even the Bosch sound is a bit loud for me when I am slow climbing single track - but on the road I don't at all mind the noise of the CYC. Not nearly as bad as the videos make it sound.