The opposite of derestricting - hypermiling

[MassDeduction]

I want to do some hypermiling (ie. trying to get *very* long mileage on a single charge) on my e-bike. Ironically, my first act will be to use a derestricting tool (eMax) to reduce the top assisted speed down to 25 km/h.

Out of reducing the max torque, reducing the assist percentage, or reducing the wattage, which is likely to be the most effective at further extending range? Or is it six of one, half a dozen for each of the others?

I'm particularly curious about reducing max wattage, and whether there's any good reason to do this or to not do this.

 

[Mabman]

I find pedaling vigorously helps the most.

 

[galaga187]

I find pedaling vigorously helps the most.[/]
That might make it worse if the motor is multiplying your power efforts but if you mean spin at same rider power level with recommended cadence level then that can help. I’ve noticed less miles since putting on a larger chainring.

 

[Rusty]

I had my Scott changed from 32kph to 25kph - made a difference of about 200 meters.

 

[Jackware]

Have you measured it when you just stay in Eco or whatever your lowest assistant level is and turn it off whenever possible, ie on the level or downhill sections?

 

[WilkyWay]

What kind of riding are you going to be doing? I had 20 miles of mainly flat riding yesterday 95% of which was over 15mph, only took the battery 20 minutes to recharge. Thinking about it, I shouldn’t have bothered even taking the ebike out should I ?

 

[MassDeduction]

I find pedaling vigorously helps the most.

Yes, I'll be pedalling with vigour no matter the level of assist.

I had my Scott changed from 32kph to 25kph - made a difference of about 200 meters.

If I'm mostly climbing steep hills, then 25 to 32 km/h isn't much of a difference for me. When descending, there's absolutely no difference between the two either. Also on the flats it's not much of a difference as I can pedal faster than either of those. It's on the slight inclines where 25 vs. 32 can make a big range difference, in my experience.

Have you measured it when you just stay in Eco or whatever your lowest assistant level is and turn it off whenever possible, ie on the level or downhill sections?

Yes, when I stay in lower modes of assist and turn the assist off whenever possible, then it makes a significant range increase.

My interest is in the most efficient way to extend range for when the assist is turned on, and is kicked in, via playing with torque/wattage/assist% settings. Anyone done so?

 

[MassDeduction]

What kind of riding are you going to be doing? I had 20 miles of mainly flat riding yesterday 95% of which was over 15mph, only took the battery 20 minutes to recharge. Thinking about it, I shouldn’t have bothered even taking the ebike out should I ?

I suppose terrain could play a role. If one is riding on the flat, reducing assist% might be the most efficient way to extend range. If one is climbing hills, perhaps reducing torque or wattage would be the most effective. I was hoping someone might have already tried, but if no one has I'll experiment myself.

 

[Coopers]

All depends on what speed you want to sit on. I get good range as even though I use boost cutout at 32km/h, I sit on over 30km an hour most of the time, so the assist has already tapered off. Ie. not using much battery.

It's a funny sort of question thought. You can get infinite range if you turn off assist

 

[Mabman]

My experience with using both TA mid drive and front hub no PAS is that it is a lot easier to hypermile on my hub bike. For one thing I have ultimate control over what wattage I am using as it shows on my display and I can set it at a limit where I want. The other thing is that I have more control of the gear range by setting a low wattage and just riding my preferred cadence and input with the motor just chugging along up to the set limit helping take care of the dead spots in my spin and keeping the momentum flow going. Kind of like using a row boat with a trolling motor.

On my TA bike I find it harder to get on top of the motor because the harder I push in any given gear, while it does limit out according to what mode I'm in, if I want to push a harder gear in a slow situation I have to be careful of what mode I'm in. To combat this I give the rear brake a slight amount of drag while keeping steady pressure on the pedals and when I let of the brake the TA is still active and fires right up. Great for mtb but not as useful on my drop bar bikes that also some some trail but mostly logging roads which are plentiful out the door whereas single track not so much.

 

[MassDeduction]

All depends on what speed you want to sit on. I get good range as even though I use boost cutout at 32km/h, I sit on over 30km an hour most of the time, so the assist has already tapered off. Ie. not using much battery.

It's a funny sort of question thought. You can get infinite range if you turn off assist

It is a funny sort of question, but there's a method to my madness. I'm pretty fit, but nonetheless know I'll cover more ground in a day with an e-bike than without, even if I only use a low level of assist and/or only use it sparingly.