Suspension set-up guides and info

[RickBullotta]

This is a helpful thread but unfortunately you can change the natural behavior of a suspension by adding or removing tokens or tuning the rebound settings. If it’s designed to be progressive you can turn it less progressive but ain’t going to perform like a suspension developed to be linear. This is a equation that involves the architecture of the rear triangle, your own weight, the kinematics of the bike, the geometry as well, and the shocks

If you want to dive into the dynamics of specific suspension designs on individual bikes, here's a great reference. It will also help you understand why you can't simply move a shock from one bike to another (forks of course are largely interchangeable within some basic geometry guidelines).

Linkage Bike Simulation Software - Home

 

[Gary]

Try reading the first post and all the links within bud.

 

[Eddy Current]

Try reading the first post and all the links within bud.

Is easy to understand the isolated terms but when you put all in the mix is when the “chemistry“ of the whole stuff is more a bit more complicated.

But to put in a simple way there’s two main set ups, the swallower one for rocky trails and the nimble one for less rugged trails. Just be sure wich one you want.

 

[Zimmerframe]

Is easy to understand the isolated terms but when you put all in the mix is when the “chemistry“ of the whole stuff is more a bit more complicated.

But to put in a simple way there’s two main set ups, the swallower one for rocky trails and the nimble one for less rugged trails. Just be sure wich one you want.

I'm sure most would opt for the Nimble Swallower.

 

[Gary]

Is easy to understand the isolated terms but when you put all in the mix is when the “chemistry“ of the whole stuff is more a bit more complicated.

But to put in a simple way there’s two main set ups, the swallower one for rocky trails and the nimble one for less rugged trails. Just be sure wich one you want.

Comment when you've read it all. (you clearly haven't)

 

[Zimmerframe]

Just when you think you have your forum peers stereotyped, someone throws a spanner in the works.

 

[Gary]

TBF I think I hit the reaction button with your spanner

 

[Eddy Current]

Comment when you've read it all. (you clearly haven't)

Will do, not a easy or short reading

But if you set a suspenssion to plow rocks and roots even seated is kinda is not the best on a jumpy twisty bikepark. You can get a great all rounder or reach a sweet spot but the Giant with the Maestro ain’t going to behave like DW of the Shuttle no matter how much you increase psi, add or remove spacers or dial the rebound.

 

[Gary]

Read first chat later

Actually, watch RAMPAGE first

Maestro = DW (infringes Weagles patent anyway)

 

[Eddy Current]

This is a good beginners video, very easy to understand and a nice point to get started. Notice the difference between damping settings travel movement vs spacers/tokens settings travel movement, but I just wanted to know if air pressure vs air volume works that way too. The guy in the video explain it the whole very well very basic but helpful for newbies


Still combine the fast speed and low speed compression setting With slow or fast rebound setting and spacers .... I need a bit deeper theorical and practical dive into

 

[steve_sordy]

I thought that his description of when to employ high speed or low speed compression damping adjustment to be very clear.
But if he had gone on to explain what options you had when you only have a low speed compression damping adjustment, then it would have been even more helpful. Back to the "Bike Rumour Suspension Set up Guide" then.

 

[Eddy Current]

What do you people prefer, a damping setting system like the fit4 or a fixed refined setting system like the grip 2?

Heres another good vídeo for begginers, with practical examples and easy concepts

 

[B1rdie]

But if you set a suspenssion to plow rocks and roots even seated .

I am not a skilled jumper with lots of airtime but I AM SURE THAT ONE SHOULD NEVER PLOW ROCKS AND ROOTS WHILE SEATED.

Think I’ve done my 20 cents of good advising for the day.

 

[Eddy Current]

I am not a skilled jumper with lots of airtime but I AM SURE THAT ONE SHOULD NEVER PLOW ROCKS AND ROOTS WHILE SEATED.

Think I’ve done my 20 cents of good advising for the day.

i dont know how translate the Spanish expression for what I’m tryng to say, take it as an exaggeration

And then you have Nico who runs just one token and 82 psi in his fork

9:20

 

[Zimmerframe]

i dont know how translate the Spanish expression for what I’m tryng to say, take it as an exaggeration

Solo puedes decirlo en español. Todos aquí también hablan español, ruso y mandarín.

 

[Zimmerframe]

It's kinda lucky they didn't get obsessed and call it the "undervolt" and put the battery below the motor ..

 

[B1rdie]

Vous pouvez essayer française, parce que je parle portugues.
Mais je comprend aussi el español
Enjoy your ride but keep the important parts far from that saddle ?

 

[Eddy Current]

Let’s talk about offset.

Ride a 66 degree head angle with a 37mm off set (RockShox lyrics for example) is the same that ride a 67 ha with 51 offset? In other words can a shorter offset be a substite of the a snap steeper head angle?

 

[Gary]

Let's not. Not here anyway. it has nothing to do with suspension set-up

The simplified answer to your question is No though.

Google "Fork offset/rake and trail"

 

[Fivetones]

https://www.bikeradar.com/features/...an-experiment/?image=9&type=gallery&gallery=1

 

[Good Times]

Thanks for all this info, I’ve spent a lot of time watching and learning.

Best lesson I got was when riding Thredbo and met up with a bike mechanic. All my bikes previously had come with default fork settings, one of which would place compression somewhere about 1/3 of the way in. I would always deviate a little, but never too far. My bike felt fine on this day, but toward the end of the day my hands and forearms were hurting and I was losing grip. I could ride, but my confidence and speed were well down due to this. He just goes in and unwinds my compression completely, pops a little more pressure in, and the next day we ride until the lifts closed and I still felt fresh. Bike handled very similarly, but my body didn’t get thrashed at all. It was unreal, and something I wouldn’t have been able to feel from a few click changes and a quick ride. It was the full day ride which showed me the difference.

Anyway long story short he said always start with compression on zero and use it only as a last resort on a ride if it’s absolutely necessary. Which is echoed somewhat in these tutorials.

 

[Mikerb]

Never moved the compression dial from zero on the forks on any bike

 

[steve_sordy]

Never moved the compression dial from zero on the forks on any bike

For the avoidance of doubt, when you say "zero", do you mean zero compression damping, ie fully open?
I'm pretty sure that you do, but it never hurts to confirm.

 

[Mikerb]

Yes!

 

[steve_sordy]

Never moved the compression dial from zero on the forks on any bike

The trial with a borrowed ShockWiz suggested that I make my low speed compression a bit firmer, ie not open. It was already 1 click away from fully open and when I moved it to 2 clicks away, reset and redid the trial, it no longer suggested that I make a change.

 

[Mikerb]

I think over time the improved design of the air spring has made variable suspension damping less necessary. Never needed to adjust it on Pike forks which I have used for some time or the Revelation I am using currently. I have in the past adjusted 3 position shocks from open to trail ( never to lockout) but again I think rear linkage design has improved to the extent that is hardly necessary now either.

 

[Eddy Current]

Just when you think you have some knowledge about suspensions, then you see this video and want to send it all to hell.


Progressive vs Linear MTB Suspension: Falling/Rising/Mixed Rate -

 

[Gary]

Leverage really isn't a difficult concept to comprehend Ed
You wouldn't be able to lift a spoonful of pudding to your mouth without (unknowingly) understanding it

 

[Eddy Current]

I never been in this situation before with any bike. My Altitude as some of you know came with the nine ride flip chip. Well, from the slackest to the steepest position there’s a noticeable change in how behaves, being more linear at the steepest. Did I need set the sag in this position, neutral? the slackest? Doesn’t matter?

Thanks.

edit: oh btw check my countryman’s blog. He updated with a lot of ebikes, and I think more will added.

Linkage Design

 

[Flatslide]

I never been in this situation before with any bike. My Altitude as some of you know came with the nine ride flip chip. Well, from the slackest to the steepest position there’s a noticeable change in how behaves, being more linear at the steepest. Did I need set the sag in this position, neutral? the slackest? Doesn’t matter?

Thanks.

edit: oh btw check my countryman’s blog. He updated with a lot of ebikes, and I think more will added.

Linkage Design

Hi Eddy. I'm not really sure if it matters. Although I will say that personally I set sag by opening all the damping up to fast and then just adding or removing air until I get the air spring behaving the way I like it by bouncing around on the spot. I set the front and then the rear to balance the bike. Once the springs are where I want, then I set the damping. I'd add that once on the trail I will add or remove air until I'm utilising all of the travel in a big-hit scenario.
I've only changed my Ride9 the once-from pos 1 to pos 3.
Here's a link to the Technical Manual pdf: https://www.chrissports.ch/content/files/Files/Service&Technik/Rocky Mountain/Altitude_Powerplay_Tech_Manual.pdf