SRAM GX AXS T Type

[Giff]

Has anyone upgraded to the newSRAM T type
group set ?
Any opinions / comments?

 

[p3eps]

I’ve been running the XX one now for about 6 weeks and overall am really impressed.
I previously had AXS XX1 on the bike.

Now I’ve found the correct spot, I love the new ‘pod’ controller, the setup is sooo easy, and the shifting is flawless every time. I generally never shift under load anyway, so I don’t notice a difference there.

Was it worth the price to upgrade from my previous AXS? Probably not.
I did manage to get about £500 back selling it on eBay, but the upgrade was over £1300!

 

[Dax]

I’ve been running the XX one now for about 6 weeks and overall am really impressed.
I previously had AXS XX1 on the bike.

Now I’ve found the correct spot, I love the new ‘pod’ controller, the setup is sooo easy, and the shifting is flawless every time. I generally never shift under load anyway, so I don’t notice a difference there.

Was it worth the price to upgrade from my previous AXS? Probably not.
I did manage to get about £500 back selling it on eBay, but the upgrade was over £1300!

What bike is that on?

 

[p3eps]

What bike is that on?

Levo SL 1.2

 

[Dax]

Levo SL 1.2

View attachment 121923

Love it! If I didn’t have a ksl already, I’d have a LSL2 on order. What chainring are you running?

 

[p3eps]

The stock one is T-Type compatible, as the S-Works build comes with T-Type.

 

[Dax]

The stock one is T-Type compatible, as the S-Works build comes with T-Type.

Thanks. I’ll order one of those

 

[Tooks]

I’ve got T-Type XO on my Levo Gen 3, and despite my initial scepticism I have to say that it shifts fantastically, especially under load.

I know that’s kind of what it’s all about, but having a standard AXS setup on my other E-bike where I never shift under load, the benefits are tangible.

I understand from Rob’s video about the GX version that it’s functionally identical, and it’s what I’d buy if I was going again.

 

[JC-1]

I’m still trying to get my head around the full power shifting that people report. Even under low–medium power, it can make loud cracking sounds and I would never ever consider shifting it under full load. Even on a non-ebike. I can’t see how it would survive a single ride with me shifting while stomping the pedals. I rode the last AXS before AXS T-Type and the latest Shimano groupset and have to avoid shifting those under load too. The few times I tried it, I destroyed a cassette and snapped a chain.

 

[Tooks]

I’m still trying to get my head around the full power shifting that people report. Even under low–medium power, it can make loud cracking sounds and I would never ever consider shifting it under full load. Even on a non-ebike. I can’t see how it would survive a single ride with me shifting while stomping the pedals. I rode the last AXS before AXS T-Type and the latest Shimano groupset and have to avoid shifting those under load too. The few times I tried it, I destroyed a cassette and snapped a chain.

Yes, T-Type can still make a noise, it’s not silent but it is nevertheless designed to shift under load.

I have a normal AXS setup on my other EMTB and you do need to back off a little if you want a smooth shift, or don’t want to destroy stuff.

 

[JC-1]

Th

Yes, T-Type can still make a noise, it’s not silent but it is nevertheless designed to shift under load.

I have a normal AXS setup on my other EMTB and you do need to back off a little if you want a smooth shift, or don’t want to destroy stuff.

Thanks for the feedback. So I just need to ignore the noise and have some faith?

 

[Giff]

On the reviews I read it says that it doesn’t actually engage until it is on the cog. There may be a fractional delay but unnoticeable when riding but the chain is in the right place as the power is applied.

In practice I can’t see anyone who has been riding a while not backing off slightly under gear changes.

Probably like modulating your braking
then swapping to an ABS system.

 

[JC-1]

That’s the other thing that confused me. From the reviews, I thought that if you clicked multiple times on the pod shifter, the derailuer would only attempt to shift one cog at a time. But, I can click multiple times and it will happily make a mess of the shift and get the chain stuck trying to bridge multiple cogs.

 

[Tooks]

Th

Thanks for the feedback. So I just need to ignore the noise and have some faith?

To be fair, I ride with a great deal of mechanical sympathy anyway, but sometimes you need to shift when you shift and although I don’t have that many miles under my belt with Transmission yet, it feels like it’s up to it.

Rob on here and many other YouTubers have given it a lot more grief than I ever will, and the feedback seems to be generally excellent? The cost is the main barrier, but GX helps with that a bit, and by all accounts chains and cassettes are taking the miles which will help as well.

 

[RickBullotta]

I’m still trying to get my head around the full power shifting that people report. Even under low–medium power, it can make loud cracking sounds and I would never ever consider shifting it under full load. Even on a non-ebike. I can’t see how it would survive a single ride with me shifting while stomping the pedals. I rode the last AXS before AXS T-Type and the latest Shimano groupset and have to avoid shifting those under load too. The few times I tried it, I destroyed a cassette and snapped a chain.

Have you tried using micro-adjust to get it dialed? Sounds like it's off a couple mm. It's not magic - it still needs an initial adjustment/tweak after installation to get it setup correctly.

 

[Amelia]

Has anyone upgraded to the newSRAM T type
group set ?
Any opinions / comments?

been on for 8 weeks now not mist a beat awesome bit of kit .shame it’s crazy money

 

[Downhillr]

Has anyone upgraded to the newSRAM T type
group set ?
Any opinions / comments?

I switched from AXS to the new X0 T-Type drivetrain (cassette, derailleur, chain and crank chainring (SRAM direct mount T type for Shimano crank) on my SC Bullit. The shifts are more accurate, much better under load (especially climbing), quieter drivetrain as well. My son did the same on his Nomad (non-ebike) and noticed a bit less drag, likely due to larger derailleur pulleys..
(maybe benefits ebike range?)

I live the overall performance and haven’t busted a chain like my earlier drivetrain!

 

[Downhillr]

I switched from AXS to the new X0 T-Type drivetrain (cassette, derailleur, chain and crank chainring (SRAM direct mount T type for Shimano crank) on my SC Bullit. The shifts are more accurate, much better under load (especially climbing), quieter drivetrain as well. My son did the same on his Nomad (non-ebike) and noticed a bit less drag, likely due to larger derailleur pulleys..
(maybe benefits ebike range?)

I live the overall performance and haven’t busted a chain like my earlier drivetrain!

Oops, forgot this SRAM link that may help if you're not sure the shift is quite right or sounds off:

 

[JC-1]

Oops, forgot this SRAM link that may help if you're not sure the shift is quite right or sounds off:

So, I used the MicroAdjust to set the derailleur where I thought it needed to be. This turned out to be position 14 of 14.

I had the bike in at the bike shop for something else, so I set the MicroAdjust back to the middle position and had them re-adjust it. They also set it at position 14. It's shifting much better set in that position.

I've found that after I remove/reinstall the rear wheel, the shifting can be quite off. I can only guess that the amount of axle torque is enough to affect the shifting. Maybe there's enough combined variation in the rear end with the derailleur + axle torque + chain stay pivot (Trek Rail), that the derailleur is not always where it needs to be, or ends up easily moved enough to affect shifting. Maybe my derailleur is slightly off from the factory?

At least it's shifting well now, but I'd rather not have to be at the absolute limit of adjustment to have it shift OK.

 

[RickBullotta]

So, I used the MicroAdjust to set the derailleur where I thought it needed to be. This turned out to be position 14 of 14.

I had the bike in at the bike shop for something else, so I set the MicroAdjust back to the middle position and had them re-adjust it. They also set it at position 14. It's shifting much better set in that position.

I've found that after I remove/reinstall the rear wheel, the shifting can be quite off. I can only guess that the amount of axle torque is enough to affect the shifting. Maybe there's enough combined variation in the rear end with the derailleur + axle torque + chain stay pivot (Trek Rail), that the derailleur is not always where it needs to be, or ends up easily moved enough to affect shifting. Maybe my derailleur is slightly off from the factory?

At least it's shifting well now, but I'd rather not have to be at the absolute limit of adjustment to have it shift OK.

Just a guess, but perhaps your freehub is not fully seated or your axle end caps are not fully seated.

 

[Downhillr]

So, I used the MicroAdjust to set the derailleur where I thought it needed to be. This turned out to be position 14 of 14.

I had the bike in at the bike shop for something else, so I set the MicroAdjust back to the middle position and had them re-adjust it. They also set it at position 14. It's shifting much better set in that position.

I've found that after I remove/reinstall the rear wheel, the shifting can be quite off. I can only guess that the amount of axle torque is enough to affect the shifting. Maybe there's enough combined variation in the rear end with the derailleur + axle torque + chain stay pivot (Trek Rail), that the derailleur is not always where it needs to be, or ends up easily moved enough to affect shifting. Maybe my derailleur is slightly off from the factory?

At least it's shifting well now, but I'd rather not have to be at the absolute limit of adjustment to have it shift OK.

Curious, I wonder if you can have the crank installation setup checked and have chain-line verified correct?
T-type is unique using a 55mm chain line whereas prior kits were 52-ish, which is why the front crankset is changed or (as with EP8 /EP801 motors and Shimano crankset) the crank gear is changed. Since that could affect alignment it might be good to verify.

 

[JC-1]

Curious, I wonder if you can have the crank installation setup checked and have chain-line verified correct?
T-type is unique using a 55mm chain line whereas prior kits were 52-ish, which is why the front crankset is changed or (as with EP8 /EP801 motors and Shimano crankset) the crank gear is changed. Since that could affect alignment it might be good to verify.

It's a T-Type chainring direct mounted to the Bosch motor, so I hope it's correct.

 

[JC-1]

Just a guess, but perhaps your freehub is not fully seated or your axle end caps are not fully seated.

Thanks for the suggestion. It all seems to be correct. No freeplay or anything that looks off.

 

[Downhillr]

It's a T-Type chainring direct mounted to the Bosch motor, so I hope it's correct.

This should be it…

 

[Downhillr]

It's a T-Type chainring direct mounted to the Bosch motor, so I hope it's correct.

Eagle Transmission E-MTB Chainring for Bosch - CR-TTYP-BO-A1 - SRAM

Eagle Transmission E-MTB Chainring for Bosch, CR-TTYP-BO-A1, SRAM. Engingeered to interface with Bosch motor systems, SRAM drivetrain engineers optimized this ring to combat the high-torque, high-wear situations e-bik...

www.sram.com

…lol, help if I included link!

 

[JC-1]

Eagle Transmission E-MTB Chainring for Bosch - CR-TTYP-BO-A1 - SRAM

Eagle Transmission E-MTB Chainring for Bosch, CR-TTYP-BO-A1, SRAM. Engingeered to interface with Bosch motor systems, SRAM drivetrain engineers optimized this ring to combat the high-torque, high-wear situations e-bik...

www.sram.com

…lol, help if I included link!

My GX groupset actually came with this chainring. Not sure why.

XX Eagle Transmission Direct Mount E-MTB Chainring for Bosch - CR-XX-BO-D1 - SRAM

XX Eagle Transmission Direct Mount E-MTB Chainring for Bosch, CR-XX-BO-D1, SRAM. Designed specifically for use with Bosch motor systems, this chainring is the lightest, most advanced e-specific ring ever designed. Pairing performan...

www.sram.com

 

[Downhillr]

My GX groupset actually came with this chainring. Not sure why.

XX Eagle Transmission Direct Mount E-MTB Chainring for Bosch - CR-XX-BO-D1 - SRAM

XX Eagle Transmission Direct Mount E-MTB Chainring for Bosch, CR-XX-BO-D1, SRAM. Designed specifically for use with Bosch motor systems, this chainring is the lightest, most advanced e-specific ring ever designed. Pairing performan...

www.sram.com

Cool, that’s the high-end one so you shouldn't have chain line issues due to that. As long as your hub’s in shape and your axles centering right it should shift smoothly, not sure why derailleur trim maxes out

 

[RickBullotta]

Thanks for the suggestion. It all seems to be correct. No freeplay or anything that looks off.

The only other thing that comes to mind is that the splines on the cassette are not fully seated on the freehub, so it offset outwards a bit. A setting of 14 does seem like a lot of adjustment needed to get proper alignment, but if it's working flawlessly, maybe it just "is what it is".

 

[p3eps]

The only other thing that comes to mind is that the splines on the cassette are not fully seated on the freehub, so it offset outwards a bit. A setting of 14 does seem like a lot of adjustment needed to get proper alignment, but if it's working flawlessly, maybe it just "is what it is".

My Transmission on my current bike is set at 8 - so pretty much in the middle.

I have the original AXS on my Stumpy, which has 31 adjustment settings. It's set at 16 - again, in the middle... however I sometimes use that bike on a Wahoo Kickr. When on there, I need to set it to 31, as the cassette must have some sort of offset.

 

[RickBullotta]

My Transmission on my current bike is set at 8 - so pretty much in the middle.

I have the original AXS on my Stumpy, which has 31 adjustment settings. It's set at 16 - again, in the middle... however I sometimes use that bike on a Wahoo Kickr. When on there, I need to set it to 31, as the cassette must have some sort of offset.

The other thing to keep in mind with AXS vs T-Type is that with AXS, there's always a possibility that the hanger is misaligned. I check mine fairly regularly on all hanger-equipped bikes. Makes a big difference in shifting precision with 12 speed drivetrains.