Gary Davis
Member
It seems that it varies also from brand to brand
Rockrider E-st 900 changes upgrades
- Thread starter BeBiker
- Start date
Gary Davis
Member
Sorry I didn't find it in English but it's quite useful
If you're brave .. there is the Ultimate tyre thread. You'll see in there that there can be quite large differences between brands on real world tyre sizes.
From my experience, and we're all different - I ran 2.8's (plus) on my hardtail as I thought they were cool, it was the big thing to do and I thought it gave me more suspension. I kept running them at lower and lower pressures for more suspension
With the Kenevo I started on 2.8's - it came with 2.8's. Then swapped to a 2.6 e-wild on the front and a 2.8 on the back. Whilst not a huge difference, you could feel the front rolled into turns easier so I regretted not going 2.6 at both ends. Once the front knobs were wearing off the sides I went to 2.4 at both ends. Much nicer and more consistent rolling into turns and faster/sharper handling.
I'm on 40mm rims. This is theoretically at the large end for that size tyre. Ultimately if gives more air volume as the rim side of the tyre is spaced out further. If there's a downside where a thinner rim would be better ? it's probably when you're leaning over on the turns and a slimmer rim would enable the tyre to flex laterally slightly more - potentially giving you more grip when you're at speed on bumpy corners and have the bike cranked over a long way. Personally, I've not had any problems with them though.
Something from 2.4-2.6 is probably the real world sweet spot.
From my experience, and we're all different - I ran 2.8's (plus) on my hardtail as I thought they were cool, it was the big thing to do and I thought it gave me more suspension. I kept running them at lower and lower pressures for more suspension
With the Kenevo I started on 2.8's - it came with 2.8's. Then swapped to a 2.6 e-wild on the front and a 2.8 on the back. Whilst not a huge difference, you could feel the front rolled into turns easier so I regretted not going 2.6 at both ends. Once the front knobs were wearing off the sides I went to 2.4 at both ends. Much nicer and more consistent rolling into turns and faster/sharper handling.
I'm on 40mm rims. This is theoretically at the large end for that size tyre. Ultimately if gives more air volume as the rim side of the tyre is spaced out further. If there's a downside where a thinner rim would be better ? it's probably when you're leaning over on the turns and a slimmer rim would enable the tyre to flex laterally slightly more - potentially giving you more grip when you're at speed on bumpy corners and have the bike cranked over a long way. Personally, I've not had any problems with them though.
Something from 2.4-2.6 is probably the real world sweet spot.
- Thread starter
- #64
Seems we have same ball-height concerns
For the newbies, here a scientific illustration of the ball-height issue:
When riding, or when stopped with the dropper-post (optional) down, the balls are in position B1 and there is no problem.
But when coming off the saddle to the front, avoiding your back touches the saddle, the balls move to position B2.
BH is constant and stays at the height, you see the problem.
The solution would not be to lower the upper bar in the back, but to lower the upper bar in the middle:
I don't think my design would make it
- Thread starter
- #65
I'll have a look at that !
At the moment 27.5-Skinwall 2.4 to 2.6 Rekon-style only gives me this possibility:
Onza Porcupine Skinwall 27.5" 60TPI Tubeless Ready Folding Tire acheter | Bike-Discount
Achat Onza VTT Pneus 27,5" - pliables en ligne ✓ Acheter Porcupine Skinwall 27.5" 60TPI Tubeless Ready Folding Tire pas cher sur Bike-Discount ✓ Onza Online Shop ✓ Meilleur prix ✓
www.bike-discount.de
the up-down suspension/movement is welcome,From my experience, and we're all different - I ran 2.8's (plus) on my hardtail as I thought they were cool, it was the big thing to do and I thought it gave me more suspension. I kept running them at lower and lower pressures for more suspension
but the left-right suspension/movement makes me vomit.
So full-pressure, no suspension, and hard balloon contact profile.
Only usefull in sand or deep mud.
-
Last edited:
You just need to cut off the top tube and re-install it upside downI don't think my design would make it
I tested the 2.8's down to 0.5 bar. But you hit your rims on rocks and certainly don't have precise steering
I've also tested the 2.4's down to 0.5 bar. These are DH22's so heavier and stronger side walls. It was only a test for fun, but the bike was still rideable at reasonable speed with these ~70kph on rock/earth. I wouldn't want to ride it like that all the time though.
If it's wet or ice I generally run these at 1.1-1.2. If it's drier 1.2-1.3. Each tyre, rider style, surface, rider weight will give different results though and we'll all have different preferences.
done https://www.decathlon.it/p/bici-tre.../_/R-p-169143?mc=8405314&c=GRIGIO#picture-0-0You just need to cut off the top tube and re-install it upside down
It isn't as visually appealing that way round is it..
I think you need to work on this instead - but train the muscles to do it on purpose :
Testicular Retraction: Symptoms, Causes, Treatment, and More
Testicular retraction is different from undescended testicles. A retractile testicle often resolves without treatment, but it should be monitored by a doctor.
www.healthline.com
- Thread starter
- #70
That looks indeed the same upper-bar, upside down and front to back
But it doesn't really look better...
That’s true continental 2.60 are quite close to 2.8 stock
Vittoria 2.60 are quite close to 2.40
Gary Davis
Member
And to make it worse, they put the bottle support (which I don't use) around B1. Either Decathlon RD team run small size frame or...For the newbies, here a scientific illustration of the ball-height issue:
View attachment 53444
When riding, or when stopped with the dropper-post (optional) down, the balls are in position B1 and there is no problem.
But when coming off the saddle to the front, avoiding your back touches the saddle, the balls move to position B2.
BH is constant and stays at the height, you see the problem.
The solution would not be to lower the upper bar in the back, but to lower the upper bar in the middle:
View attachment 53447
I don't think my design would make it
Gary Davis
Member
Or switch stem and saddle...You just need to cut off the top tube and re-install it upside down
Gary Davis
Member
To all of you. Please be indulgent about my broken English, French is my native language.
It doesn't seem very broken !To all of you. Please be indulgent about my broken English, French is my native language.
With the original tyres, I had 1 foot flat on the floor and the other on my toes while straddling the crossbar. With the 2.40 Maxxis, I can now put both feet on the floor.I'll have a look at that !
At the moment 27.5-Skinwall 2.4 to 2.6 Rekon-style only gives me this possibility:
Onza Porcupine Skinwall 27.5" 60TPI Tubeless Ready Folding Tire acheter | Bike-Discount
Achat Onza VTT Pneus 27,5" - pliables en ligne ✓ Acheter Porcupine Skinwall 27.5" 60TPI Tubeless Ready Folding Tire pas cher sur Bike-Discount ✓ Onza Online Shop ✓ Meilleur prix ✓
the up-down suspension/movement is welcome,
but the left-right suspension/movement makes me vomit.
So full-pressure, no suspension, and hard balloon contact profile.
Only usefull in sand or deep mud.
-
Gary Davis
Member
Flat ?
This is while static in my garage and was just for comparison to see the height difference now that I have changed the tyres.
Basically, the bike is definitely lower with the 2.40 tyres fitted. ?
Gary Davis
Member
I understood correctly but I wanted to be sure that both feet were flat
I wasn't sure.I understood correctly but I wanted to be sure that both feet were flat
There is also the problem that this is the latest riding style in Belgium !
Gary Davis
Member
As you can see we are pioneers. Lightness, stability, no punctures, large wheels and top hat already fitted with mips! OK, no mudguards...
Not to mention you've completely solved all the issues with pedal strikes !
Gary Davis
Member
As you can see we are pioneers. Lightness, stability, no punctures, large wheels and top hat already fitted with mips! Ok no mudguards and last but not least : flat feet! ?
Gary Davis
Member
Of courseNot to mention you've completely solved all the issues with pedal strikes !
Weather was good today and had the afternoon off work.
First proper ride today on the new Maxxis Ardent over mixed terrain.
The mountain tracks and forest were still very wet and muddy from the rain last week, so perfect for trying out the tyres.
I can honestly say that they are much better than the Hutchinsons all round.
I lost my grip on 1 stony uphill section, but I think that was down to my poor riding skills. Basically, I think I was in too low a gear, leaning over the bars and out of the saddle.
What was very noticeable on downhill tarmac was how much tighter and responsive it was when leaning/turning in. Bike was much more planted. Max speed reached on tarmac was about 37mph.
All in all I'm very pleased with the tyre choice and going from 2.8 to 2.4 seems to be better on this bike.
Pics below show the different mixtures of terrain:
First proper ride today on the new Maxxis Ardent over mixed terrain.
The mountain tracks and forest were still very wet and muddy from the rain last week, so perfect for trying out the tyres.
I can honestly say that they are much better than the Hutchinsons all round.
I lost my grip on 1 stony uphill section, but I think that was down to my poor riding skills. Basically, I think I was in too low a gear, leaning over the bars and out of the saddle.
What was very noticeable on downhill tarmac was how much tighter and responsive it was when leaning/turning in. Bike was much more planted. Max speed reached on tarmac was about 37mph.
All in all I'm very pleased with the tyre choice and going from 2.8 to 2.4 seems to be better on this bike.
Pics below show the different mixtures of terrain:
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