Removing the rear wheel - is there a technique?

[alan_sh]

I took my rear wheel off to clean the brake pads. What a faff with the chain putting it back on. Is there a technique to doing it without getting chain lube all over yourself trying to keep the deraiileur out of the way? I'd hate to have to try it in the field.

Alan

 

[steve_sordy]

Tip 1: Put the chain in the middle gear of the cassette so that the chain is as straight as possible. Repositioning the wheel is easier.
Tip 2: If you have a clutch mech, turn it off. This reduces the force you need to hold the mech open.
Tip 3: When repositioning, aim the disc at the brake pads. Once you have that right all else flows.

Edit: Tip 4: Do all of the above with the bike upside down! I can't imagine trying to do it with the bike the right way up, not even on a workstand!

 

[alan_sh]

Thanks. I did on a bike stand. Upside down isn't easy as I have to loosen the display and other stuff so it doesn't get damaged.

I've got some handlebar mounts that I need to try out sometime that may help when it's upside down.

 

[steve_sordy]

@alan_sh Thankfully, I don't have that problem, but if I did, I'd try a couple of bricks under the grips. If it feels unstable, drop the saddle before you upend the bike.

 

[deksawyer]

If you have a SRAM rear mech, its even more of a doddle! #cage_lock

 

[alan_sh]

I've got whatever comes with a Decathlon EST 520.

 

[Beekeeper]

I have a couple of foam pads I use for kneeling when gardening. I put those under the handlebars with the bike upside down so the purion display dosen’t get scratched.

I watched a video on you tube of someone taking rear wheel on and off and I’ve done it so many times now it’s second nature and I don’t even have to think about it.

 

[KennyB]

I've got whatever comes with a Decathlon EST 520.

The clue is the word "SRAM" printed on the mech and the shifter.

 

[Mikerb]

If in a bike stand, change gear onto the smallest cog. Remove thru axle/QR whichever you have, hold the rear mech and the wheel drops out of the drop outs.............allow the mech to come to rest gently. To replace, position wheel between the drop outs from below and align the disc rotor into the caliper. Rotate the rear mech slightly to provide a bit of slack in the chain which will be lying above the smallest cog.........push the wheel up fully into the drop outs and release the mech.............insert the thru axle/QR. Never need to touch the chain!

 

[Slymobi]

If in a bike stand, change gear onto the smallest cog. Remove thru axle/QR whichever you have, hold the rear mech and the wheel drops out of the drop outs.............allow the mech to come to rest gently. To replace, position wheel between the drop outs from below and align the disc rotor into the caliper. Rotate the rear mech slightly to provide a bit of slack in the chain which will be lying above the smallest cog.........push the wheel up fully into the drop outs and release the mech.............insert the thru axle/QR. Never need to touch the chain!

Thats sounds exactly how i do it as for the control / display unit... I have my unit tightened to a manoeuvrable torque so it can be adjusted, the main reason is for when my lad rides shotgun so i can move the unit away from his knee strikes but also for if and when i may need to flip the bike onto the bars etc.

 

[Supratad]

If in a bike stand, change gear onto the smallest cog. Remove thru axle/QR whichever you have, hold the rear mech and the wheel drops out of the drop outs.............allow the mech to come to rest gently. To replace, position wheel between the drop outs from below and align the disc rotor into the caliper. Rotate the rear mech slightly to provide a bit of slack in the chain which will be lying above the smallest cog.........push the wheel up fully into the drop outs and release the mech.............insert the thru axle/QR. Never need to touch the chain!

I find, with using the smallest sprocket, the chain jams on the stay as I try to put the wheel back in, hence the advice about using middle-most sprocket.

 

[alan_sh]

Thanks all. I'll keep practicing.

 

[Mikerb]

I find, with using the smallest sprocket, the chain jams on the stay as I try to put the wheel back in, hence the advice about using middle-most sprocket.

Yes....often due to the extra bulk of the rubber chain guard but the chain has enough slack to just hang it over the drop out.

 

[Supratad]

Ah, interesting idea.

 

[Gary]

Keep practicing and you should get the hang of it fairly quickly. There's nothing inherently difficult about removing or fitting a rear wheel from a modern emtb once you know what you're doing whether held upright, flipped upside down or in a stand...

But...

Next time you need to replace a set of pads, just remove the brake caliper from the frame. It's generally easier to push the pistons back, remove and replace the pads and check piston function when it's off the bike, it woun't hurt to clean it out while you're at it and you'll then be sure to centre the new pads when re-fitting it.

 

[MACSKI1]

I use Conex 11 speed chains, and just remove the chain first with their link. Easy peasy.

 

[Coolcmsc]

On e-bikes, beware damaging the boost controller thingy if tipping upside down... expensive and some hard to source just now in U.K. at least.

 

[Beaker2135]

Lots of good advice here but 2 things strike me

Why are you remove brake pads to clean them, every time you brake they clean themselves. If they are contaminated they need replacing

The chain shouldn’t be that dirty, if it is you are likely over lubing it. Less is more it should look like it isn’t lubed. If the chain is sticky it will hold dust and turn it into grinding paste increasing wear on the drivetrain

 

[Mikerb]

When I lube the chain I leave it for a while to give time for the lube to get to where it makes a difference...............then wipe clean........then run the chain..........then wipe clean.........repeat a couple of times. The chain is now lubed where it matters and the outer surfaces are clean so do not attract dust etc.

 

[carlbiker]

I tried this right way up to get the tyre back on right way after lbs stuck it on wrong heavens above! I’d watched a video doing it same way but I’m sure he had more room to work with, mine would only go back with what felt like mm precision!

 

[Gary]

I tried this right way up

Try this:
With one hand holding the rear of your frame off the ground und as upright as you can and your other hand holding the wheel from above (gravity keeping it hung vertically) first slot in the wheel in between the rear triangle making sure to catch the chain around the correct/preferred cassette sprocket and then while looking down from above line up your rotor to slot into the gap between the pads and your hub end caps should slot into the dropout recesses nicely.
The first part can be a little more tricky with a shimano mech than sram as you need to hold the mech rotated back on the sprung main pivot to open up the chain when slotting the cassette in. whereas sram has the cage tab to hold the mech open for ease of wheel installation.

mine would only go back with what felt like mm precision!

One would hope so.

 

[carlbiker]

Try this:
With one hand holding the rear of your frame off the ground und as upright as you can and your other hand holding the wheel from above (gravity keeping it hung vertically) first slot in the wheel in between the rear triangle making sure to catch the chain around the correct/preferred cassette sprocket and then while looking down from above line up your rotor to slot into the gap between the pads and your hub end caps should slot into the dropout recesses nicely.
The first part can be a little more tricky with a shimano mech than sram as you need to hold the mech rotated back on the sprung main pivot to open up the chain when slotting the cassette in. whereas sram has the cage tab to hold the mech open for ease of wheel installation.
One would hope so.

sorry I meant to say it feels like there’s only a mm of tolerance to get the thing back in place perfectly, much easier getting it off, mate to get back on! I’ve a new disc to stick on so I’ll give your way a try ?

 

[Jeff McD]

Hey thanks Gary for that tip about just removing brake caliper when replacing with new brake pads. Never thought of that but it is brilliant. Definitely going to be easier for me since I have to always bleed a wee bit of brake fluid to get the pistons to go back all the way in for the new pads since the dot 5 brake fluid absorbs moisture from our very humid air as the pads have worn down. So much easier to do this for the rear brake if you have the caliper off. Will definitely remember this in the future.

 

[alan_sh]

Lots of good advice here but 2 things strike me

Why are you remove brake pads to clean them, every time you brake they clean themselves. If they are contaminated they need replacing

The chain shouldn’t be that dirty, if it is you are likely over lubing it. Less is more it should look like it isn’t lubed. If the chain is sticky it will hold dust and turn it into grinding paste increasing wear on the drivetrain

I removed the pads to clean them and stop them squealing. I filed a small chamfer on the leading edge. It worked, so I must have done something right.

I'm still new at the chain lubing malarkey.

Alan