Puncture prevention

brizi2003

Active member
Nov 20, 2018
236
147
Whickham, Newcastle upon Tyne
You do realise the irony of this comment?


1603549004564-png.42751


Your tyre sidewall split BECAUSE of running too low pressure
No Gary. Sidewall failed because of a manufacturing fault. Tyre was replaced under warranty. Bead separated from sidewall. I was running 22psi. Not particularly low. Point is it stayed up. I'd ran those tyres with inserts for 12 months with zero punctures.
 

Gary

Old Tartan Bollocks
Author
Subscriber
Mar 29, 2018
10,496
10,702
the internet
...and it just so happened to fail exactly along the battered and dinged to fuck rim edge, aye? :unsure:
:ROFLMAO:

Unless you're the weight of a 12yr old. 22psi for a normal volume rear tyre on an 50lb+ Eeb is lowAF
 

brizi2003

Active member
Nov 20, 2018
236
147
Whickham, Newcastle upon Tyne
...and it just so happened to fail exactly along the battered and dinged to fuck rim edge, aye? :unsure:
:ROFLMAO:

Unless you're the weight of a 12yr old. 22psi for a normal volume rear tyre on an 50lb+ Eeb is lowAF
Wrong again Gary! It was a new tyre on a different rim. The new tyre failed due to a defect. I could continue the ride because of the Tannus insert which I could not have done with tubeless. How can you possibly know the tyre pressure that is appropriate with so little information? You must be a genius. Regards Brian Age 5+1/2?
 

urastus

⚡The Whippet⚡
May 4, 2020
1,548
995
Tasmania
Thanks for the quick replies. Tubeless v tannus inserts.
How would I know if my current set up is tubeless ready ? What is involved to go tubeless and I think I’m reading that when tubeless there is a sealant in the tyre to seal small thorn holes etc.

Tannus inserts still use a smaller tube but are protected 360 I think. Watched a video but are they easy enough to fit by myself?
For me, tannus in the rear, tubeless on the front. I'm not as impressed with tubeless as everyone else seems to be - I've had some pretty ordinary punctures that were only fixed with a tube. I don't seem to get punctures in the front - so tubeless works there :ROFLMAO:. I also found that just exo tyres on the rear aren't very good tubeless - way too soft and need to go higher pressure than with tubes! Unfortunately maxxis don't make dd or dh sidewalls in 2.6! When I've used up my maxxis tyres on the rear I might try a heavier tyre on the rear, like eddy current, then I'll go tubeless.
 

Vfour800

Member
Feb 24, 2020
51
31
Brackley Northamptonshire
Tannus for me. Had mixed success with Tubeless setup and if you get anything more than a small hole (5mm) the tyre will deflate which has happened to me. I run a pressure of 18psi with the Tannus which seams the sweet spot for me and have had no problems so far. One trade off I have noticed is slightly more battery use due to higher contact patch with the ground. I am more than happy with this and still managed to do two complete circuits of Cannock chase (29.7 miles) on a 500w/h battery. Only 3% battery left though, but a very happy knackered old boy.
cheers
 

Tymon170

Member
Jul 19, 2020
13
11
NZ
Hi all, I’m looking for some advice as I’ve had a couple of punctures recently. I have a cube reaction hybrid pro 625 running on stock schwalbe smart Sam 29x2.6 with inner tube.
What do you all do to prevent punctures or what’s the best way to repair or just change inner tube. Also what way up should the bike be to take wheel off as I noticed when bike upside down the bosh purion display could get damaged.
Cheers Dougie.
Put a block of wood or a brick etc at the bar ends to keep your display off the ground and secondly I (stupidly as it turns out)resisted going tubeless for years my Son converted his bike and I got sick of him raving on !!! So converted my own bike and could have kicked myself about not doing it years ago Duh !!!You can run lower pressures (if you wish) they are much lighter and just make the bike feel better overall !!
 

Doug e+

Member
Aug 22, 2020
94
93
Ayrshire
Well I’ve had my first puncture this morning since I changed to tubeless ?. Anyway I picked up a thorn and once home I removed the thorn the air started to come out fast. I spun the front wheel and there was a sudden spurt of sealant then it seemed to seal the thorn hole. I pumped up to 35psi spun again then turned the wheel so the repair was at the bottom. The air seemed to stop almost instantly once the sealant was visible.
Is the above the correct procedure as I was not sure if I was also supposed to put a tubeless tyre plug in the thorn hole.
 

brizi2003

Active member
Nov 20, 2018
236
147
Whickham, Newcastle upon Tyne
Well I’ve had my first puncture this morning since I changed to tubeless ?. Anyway I picked up a thorn and once home I removed the thorn the air started to come out fast. I spun the front wheel and there was a sudden spurt of sealant then it seemed to seal the thorn hole. I pumped up to 35psi spun again then turned the wheel so the repair was at the bottom. The air seemed to stop almost instantly once the sealant was visible.
Is the above the correct procedure as I was not sure if I was also supposed to put a tubeless tyre plug in the thorn hole.
Hi Doug, you only need a tubeless tyre plug if the hole is too big for the sealant to work. Cheers Brian
 

Beekeeper

🍯Honey Monster🍯
Aug 6, 2019
1,751
2,197
Surrey hills
I’ve come to the end of the road with Mr Tuffy tyre liners. After about 8 months of using them I’m still getting punctures. Some thorns go through and also there is no guarantee that the liner is actually in place and hasn’t slipped to the side.

I’ve had a second attempt of inserting a Tannus Tyre armour in the back wheel and have just succeeded.

I have 29x2.6 tyres so I used the 2.5 Tannus and 2.5 inner tube. Lots of soapy water around the bead and used a battery hand pump to inflate to 35 psi when the bead popped on. It was actually more of a silent slide rather than a bang or a pop.
I then reduced pressure to 25psi. Job done!
 

Hamina

E*POWAH Master
Mar 22, 2020
500
396
FIN
.....and most who use them have race mechanics who do the dirty work!!
Seriously: There's nothing that is dirty work when installing/dismounting cushcore. Of course if you don't have 2 minutes to read the printed instructions then you've earned your pain and tears.
 

CBSTD

E*POWAH Master
Jun 15, 2020
289
871
thoK0north
Have run tubeless with some success and some failures burping the tyre then rolling it of the bead, so progressed to Mr Wolf KOMDOMs a doddle to fit but I did serve an apprenticeship fighting with mouses on my enduro motorbike IMG_9574.jpg
 

Konanige

Active member
Feb 29, 2020
422
336
Mendips
I have been tubeless for around 15 years now and have probably had about 10 punctures in that time. If its not working you aren't doing it right. Also I notice from reading this thread that most do not understand how tubeless pressures work, you will get more grip from a tubeless tyre than a tubed tyre for the same pressure, this is because friction created between the tyre and tube stiffens the tyre, therefore you dont actually have to go with super low pressure to get extra grip doing so will only increase the likelyhood of pinch flats and tyre roll off.
 

steve_sordy

Wedding Crasher
Nov 5, 2018
8,936
9,281
Lincolnshire, UK
Where did you find that info? Surely friction will warm the tyre which I thought would make it softer? I thought the whole.idea with tubeless is it allowed you to run lower pressures.
In the beginning, the whole idea was to do away with pinch flats and the extra weight. For some tyres, the robust ones, you can run lower pressures because you are free from the pinch flat problem. But if your tyres were light, then the tube was adding some sidewall stiffness. Once that support was removed, even at the same pressure the tyre may not feel right to you. In which case you may need extra pressure to get the ride feel you are looking for. The mere fact of being tubeless also meant the tyre felt better, hard to describe.

But now we are all on humongous hero tyres, weight and sidewall stiffness is less of an issue (still exists though). But the removal of pinch flats remains as a real benefit, that and the ability to drop the pressure.

PS: I never did it (because by the time I cared I was already tubeless), but when using tubes, many reduced friction between the tube and the tyre by covering the tube with French chalk (that stuff in a puncture repair kit) or at a pinch, talcum powder.
 

stiv674

E*POWAH Elite
Mar 4, 2019
777
600
Wiltshire
Since going tubeless (200 miles) I've found several thorns in my front tyre, but with tubes only had two thorn punctures in nearly 2000 miles, coincidence or not... :unsure:

Do I leave the thorns in?
 

Gary

Old Tartan Bollocks
Author
Subscriber
Mar 29, 2018
10,496
10,702
the internet
Where did you find that info? Surely friction will warm the tyre which I thought would make it softer? I thought the whole.idea with tubeless is it allowed you to run lower pressures.
friction is between tyre and tube is tiny but it does increase rolling resistance over a tubeless set up. But we're only talking 1-2w not a 4bar electric fire.
 

steve_sordy

Wedding Crasher
Nov 5, 2018
8,936
9,281
Lincolnshire, UK
Since going tubeless (200 miles) I've found several thorns in my front tyre, but with tubes only had two thorn punctures in nearly 2000 miles, coincidence or not... :unsure:

Do I leave the thorns in?
If you can see them, pull them out. Why not? The sealant in the tyre will seal the holes if you rotate the tyre to let the sealant get behind the holes.

Only two in 2000 miles! Where are you riding, mostly tarmac?
I had over two dozen punctures in each tyre after a few thousand miles of forest riding. How do I know? Not because I saw the thorns, but because I saw the damp spots where the sealant had leaked out slightly. That was on a very much smaller tyre on my analogue bike vs the monster truck tyres on my emtb.
 

stiv674

E*POWAH Elite
Mar 4, 2019
777
600
Wiltshire
If you can see them, pull them out. Why not? The sealant in the tyre will seal the holes if you rotate the tyre to let the sealant get behind the holes.

Only two in 2000 miles! Where are you riding, mostly tarmac?
I had over two dozen punctures in each tyre after a few thousand miles of forest riding. How do I know? Not because I saw the thorns, but because I saw the damp spots where the sealant had leaked out slightly. That was on a very much smaller tyre on my analogue bike vs the monster truck tyres on my emtb.

Some tarmac, but mostly the ridgeway, by-ways and bridleways etc...

Just lucky I guess... ?
 

IndigoUnicorn

E*POWAH Master
Sep 17, 2020
234
1,074
Las Cruces, NM
You can also use sealant in tubes, btw. You simply have to buy inner tubes with removable valve cores.

Living in the American Southwest, the joys of “goat heads” were made very clear to me on my first dirt ride (dirt canals, not even singletrack!) with my Trek Powerfly 5 where I flattened both tires only 2 miles in.

Now, while the rims and tires are tubeless ready, tubeless is NOT recommended because of the overall bike weight of 50.5 lbs (23 kg). I’m sure some folks would go tubeless anyway, I’m not one of those folks. I ride too much remote, technical singletrack to risk massive tire failure. So, I run Orange Seal in the tubes and carry spare emergency tubes and sealant.

For my Priority Embark e-bike commuter/tourer, I run tubeless with sealant and carry spare emergency tubes and sealant.
 

Hamina

E*POWAH Master
Mar 22, 2020
500
396
FIN
Now, while the rims and tires are tubeless ready, tubeless is NOT recommended because of the overall bike weight of 50.5 lbs (23 kg).
Would you like to open little more this requirement? What is the actual reason? The tube adds too much weight to a bike?

I've had impression that tubeless is initially more secure than with tube, but you can always put tube back in serious punctures.
 

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