Protect frame bearings from road salt

[steevwatson]

I've been using my old handrail emtb to commute to work but it has been stolen. I need to cycle to work for the next couple of months on my Orbea rise. Is there anything I can do to protect the linkage and bearings etc from road salt over the winter. I've got a decent fenders so they cute down the spray a bit. Would it be worth taking the linkage apart and putting some grease on the outside of the bearings to keep as much water out as possible? I also have come Muc off HCB-1 where do you recommend I spray it? I will be replacing all the bearings in spring and I have an old drivetrain on that will probably be toast after the winter anyway but I'll keep it cleaned and wet lubed. What are your thoughts?

 

[Alfmeister]

Maybe use rust blocker XCP Professional, as used on motorcycles and found it to be very good. The main thing is to hose off the salt with cold water, and dry the bike. It’s a little like ACF50, but not as messy. Obviously don’t get it on tyres, brakes, hand grips and peddles.

 

[steve_sordy]

A daily rinse should do the job. I wouldn't bother drying with anything special like a hairdrier; just bounce the bike and then wipe over with an old towel

 

[The EMF]

The only thing I would add Steve was to rinse the bike in cold water so as not to melt the salt particles ….

 

[Mikerb]

I have never had to service/replace frame bearings on any of my bikes despite riding through English winters. The bearings are sealed so the issue is what is likely to push past those seals, and in my experience it is the gap created by the spacers that are the weak points.
After every ride , even if after a summer ride the bike is not really dirty, and certainly if the bike is plastered I make sure the pivot bearing areas are cleaned.
All it takes is a reasonably stiff brush firstly to remove mud/ dust etc, then I use a pipe cleaner to wipe all around the spacer area. I then drip some chain lube ( wet lube) onto the spacer area and leave for a few minutes then wipe around again with a clean pipe cleaner. In my opinion use of any water is counter productive. If muddy, the water will create a thin silt and subsequent suspension movement will force that against the bearing seal.
(p.s. I do not use "free" water to clean anything on the bike except the wheels when removed from the bike. On the frame etc I just use a brush and damp cloth and a towel, then silicone shine.)

 

[The EMF]

Pipe cleaners…….wow!

 

[Tuttio]

I've been using my old handrail emtb to commute to work but it has been stolen. I need to cycle to work for the next couple of months on my Orbea rise. Is there anything I can do to protect the linkage and bearings etc from road salt over the winter. I've got a decent fenders so they cute down the spray a bit. Would it be worth taking the linkage apart and putting some grease on the outside of the bearings to keep as much water out as possible? I also have come Muc off HCB-1 where do you recommend I spray it? I will be replacing all the bearings in spring and I have an old drivetrain on that will probably be toast after the winter anyway but I'll keep it cleaned and wet lubed. What are your thoughts?

Yeah, taking the linkage apart and packing some extra grease around the outside of the bearings is a decent shout. It won't make it totally waterproof, but it'll definitely help create a barrier against that salty spray. Just make sure you use a good quality, water-resistant grease. Don't go mad with it, though. A thin layer around the seals is what you're aiming for, not to get the grease into the bearings themselves. The goal is to add an extra layer on the outside of the bearings to prevent water getting in, don't put grease on the inside. A water-resistant grease, like marine grease, is a good choice for this. Also, it's worth noting that over-tightening the linkage bolts can damage the bearings, so make sure you use a torque wrench and the manufacturer's recommended settings.

 

[Mikerb]

Yeah, taking the linkage apart and packing some extra grease around the outside of the bearings is a decent shout. It won't make it totally waterproof, but it'll definitely help create a barrier against that salty spray. Just make sure you use a good quality, water-resistant grease. Don't go mad with it, though. A thin layer around the seals is what you're aiming for, not to get the grease into the bearings themselves. The goal is to add an extra layer on the outside of the bearings to prevent water getting in, don't put grease on the inside. A water-resistant grease, like marine grease, is a good choice for this. Also, it's worth noting that over-tightening the linkage bolts can damage the bearings, so make sure you use a torque wrench and the manufacturer's recommended settings.

I would have thought the pivot bolt head provides a decent seal and the thread should be locktited so I see no benefit in removing the bolt to put grease behind the head. My cleaning process deals with area where water etc can get into the fixing and that is the spacer area. Packing a little grease there will however do no harm except is does mean thoroughly cleaning dried thread lock off the bolt thread, applying fresh thread lock and leaving the bike undisturbed for 24 hours to let that set.

 

[darwink1]

Id be weary of greasing things up too much. Along with that salt you're gonna be getting a lot of sand and road grime accumulating on the bike that would just stick to any grease and act as sand paper.

Imop riding any bike in the salt is a death sentence and I wouldn't do it if I actually liked/wanted to keep said bike for a while.

D

 

[folmonty]

Using WD40 isn't that expensive and it does help to keep corrosion down. Just keep it away from brakes and tires. Also good for wiring and such. Salt is wicked stuff!

 

[Bear-uk]

I put marine grease in all my bearings and then totally forget all about them

 

[Tom Sellers]

The goal is to add an extra layer on the outside of the bearings to prevent water getting in,

That is also my thinking after I had my M600 apart for re-grease and noticed the bearing that needed replacing was the power side under the crank arms. I planned to use a dab of grease occasionally as required, but due to restricted access, first I may try a gentle rinse of the bearing face, and then application of spray from a can of Fluid Film instead.

 

[steevwatson]

First off let me say I'm so sorry for the late reply! I've been ill the last couple of weeks.

What I was doing with my old hardtale was giving it a quick rinse then a dry and keeping it inside. I've been doing the same with my rise.

I've taken it apart today and the bearings seem to be running smoothly and no sign of any corrosion. When I put it all back together I'll put a thin layer of grease on the outside of the bearing to try to keep water out as much as possible. Then in a month or 2 once the salt is well and truly gone I'll take the bearings out check them give them a good clean and possibly look to regrease with marine grease.

I've been rinsing my drivetrain and making sure to keep it lubed. Believe it or not the one I'm currently using is waxed and it's holding up better so far than the one on my old bike that was wet lube in the winter. I've been giving it a rinse brushing of any dirt etc with a dry brush once dry and applying wax lube to top up the initial coating. No signs of rust or excessive wear so far. I'll probably rewax it over the weekend while I have the bike apart.

 

[Stihldog]

Thankfully I’ve only got 1.5 km of paved roads to ride on before I get to the trails. But during that short ride I’m covered with the white specks of road salt …from helmet to boots. I only thoroughly rinse my bike and brush my clothing off. Sometimes I can even taste the salt.

I can’t imagine the mist of road salt picked up by a car rack. All I can do is rinse the bike and re-grease the important parts. Oh, and wait for laundry day.

 

[Tom Sellers]

Thankfully I’ve only got 1.5 km of paved roads to ride on before I get to the trails. But during that short ride I’m covered with the white specks of road salt …from helmet to boots. I only thoroughly rinse my bike and brush my clothing off. Sometimes I can even taste the salt.

I can’t imagine the mist of road salt picked up by a car rack. All I can do is rinse the bike and re-grease the important parts. Oh, and wait for laundry day.

Wow, I did not until now fully appreciate yet another advantage to living in a National Park where the use of road salt is banned in many areas, severely restricted in others, and the less corrosive liquid calcium chloride is often used strategically. Still however, in the spring when the melt is on, I hate approaching the bikes on the hitch rack after a long drive to the trailhead.

 

[steevwatson]

I thought I'd give everyone a quick update. I added a small amount of grease on the outside of each bearing to help keep water out and I've been rinsing the salt water off my bike each day. Everything seems to be holding up nicely even my drivetrain only has a very small amount of surface rust on my chain from time to time.

I have encountered a problem I didn't anticipate however. My seatpost is stuck into my frame. I want to remove it and clean it up and add fresh carbon paste before it gets too bad but it doesn't want to budge. Any ideas on how to remove? I don't want to use too much brute force on my carbon frame.

 

[steve_sordy]

Use a strap wrench on the seatpost and twist it.

I don't mean a strap made of chain, but one of rubber, the sort that is used to remove the body off a shock.
Like one of these:

BOA Baby Boa Constrictor Strap Wrench Capacity 100Mm BOABABY | eBay

Very useful for household stuff as well.

 

[Arminius]

Use a strap wrench on the seatpost and twist it.

I don't mean a strap made of chain, but one of rubber, the sort that is used to remove the body off a shock.
Like one of these:

BOA Baby Boa Constrictor Strap Wrench Capacity 100Mm BOABABY | eBay

Very useful for household stuff as well.

Yepp, or like this oilfilter tool:

https://amzn.eu/d/dxTT4Us

 

[Arminius]

Well, other options:


Ultima ratio

 

[steevwatson]

Use a strap wrench on the seatpost and twist it.

I don't mean a strap made of chain, but one of rubber, the sort that is used to remove the body off a shock.
Like one of these:

BOA Baby Boa Constrictor Strap Wrench Capacity 100Mm BOABABY | eBay

Very useful for household stuff as well.

I don't know why I didn't think of that. I have one in my toolbox too. I'll give that a go tomorrow!

 

[steevwatson]

No luck with the strap wrench unfortunately

 

[steve_sordy]

Is it a dropper seatpost or a normal one?

If it's a normal one you may be more amenable to some rough treatment of it. You have to be prepared to write off the seat post.

Watch the video above, you might not want to do ANY of those methods, but any one of them may give you an idea.

After you have tried some penetrating fluid, something thin like WD-40 (!!!), left it overnight and it still wont budge, then I'd consider hitting the top of it. Not sideways, but vertically down the length of the seat tube. Any movement at all would be good. I'd suggest a piece of wood on top of the seat post to protect it. You might have to saw off the top of the post so that you can get a clean non-angled surface to hit. Once you have some ovem net, even if its in the wrong direction, the "hold" has released. Then try all the previous methods you have used.

OR:........... Support the bike upside down with the seat tube vertical. Put something robust around the seat tube but above where the saddle grips are. Something Like a pair of Stillsens. Then with a very large hammer hit the Stillsens downwards as close to the seat post as possible. That may do the trick.

I can't say that I have done any of these methods on this whole thread, but then I've never been desperate enough to try them. Good luck!

 

[steevwatson]

It's a dropper post so I'd ideally like to keep it as well. I've been reading some have had success with using ammonia to dissolve any aluminium oxide that's formed due to the post starting to corrode. It surely can't be that badly corroded it was able to move freely about a month or so ago because I adjusted the height slightly then. I'm in no rush to get it out the post is working perfectly for the moment. I'm thinking I might try adding ammonia around the clamp a little at a time over a few days and letting it soak in and see if that loosens things up a bit. Maybe even ride it on my commute with the seatpost clamp loose and see if that helps get it moving.

If none of the above works I'll try dropping the motor and adding ammonia from the bottom.......