Shimano only just started manufacturing their own chains
Do you know when that was? There is a world of difference in buying a company that makes bike chain in massive volumes of one kind ie 1/2" pitch bike chain and a chain company that actually has a huge depth of design knowledge. Sram are big enough to be a clever company on many levels, but I suspect that what they are interested in this case might be to put pressure on their existing chain suppliers. It won't hurt that their engineers will get inside the chain research and design knowledge, if indeed there is any to be had. They may have just bought a production company. It would certainly put the wind up their existing chain suppliers!SRAM bought a chain company
based upon everything else they do, I'll bet that Shimano did this after Sram did it.Shimano only just started manufacturing their own chains
You've simply drunk too much cool aid Steve.I suspect that what they are interested in this case might be to put pressure on their existing chain suppliers. It won't hurt that their engineers will get inside the chain research and design knowledge, if indeed there is any to be had.
Do I smell Fanboi?based upon everything else they do, I'll bet that Shimano did this after Sram did it.
As much consistency as possible really
ie. Same bike, same rider, same riding conditions. Same maintenance/cleaning regime. same brand and level chain but one used on a 1x10 the other 1x12.
(I'm not expecting you to actually do this either)
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PS: live ride in very dry climate. Chain almost never wet or muddy. Which helps.2017 Levo, EX 8 speed cassette/10spd chain. Approx 100 miles a month. So around 3K miles. Getting close now on stretch/ready to replace. Think it’s the thicker chain, heavy duty cassette and letting off during shifting. Have heard of people snapping chains much earlier. Very happy with this setup. For what it’s worth.
Dunno. Like I said, there's not enough consistency in your comparisonsI change to 1x12 and 1x11 and suddenly I'm getting 5-6 times more mileage. That is a massive change by any standard. So what could it be?
I would be content with a convincing explanation either way.Dunno. Like I said, there's not enough consistency in your comparisons
but 5-6 times 550miles is about what I get from a 10 speed chain. 11 was no different. I haven't ever run 12 (simply don't need that sort of gearing range plus running costs are astronomical and it's heavier).
TBH I'd be more concerned about why your 9 and 10 speed drivetrains weren't lasting rather than rejoycing about the logevity of your 11 and 12spd parts.
No. Not everyone.The only thing that changed that I can pin it down to was going to 1x. But if that was a valid theory, then everyone who switched to 1x would have noticed a chain life increase.
I never broke a chain, never broke a mech (front or rear). I'm sure that I must have had the occasional bad shift, but when I did nothing bad happened. As an engineer, I prided myself on my mechanical sympathy. Never changing front and rear at the same time, always backing off the load before shifting etc. Almost never using a total cross hobble (aaarrgghh, sin of sins!) Chain always wiped down and lubed before every ride. And so on and so on. I am not claiming to have nothing to learn in this respect, but I would genuinely like to know what that would be.You're unlikely to ever get the explination you're after.
550 miles from a 9 or 10 speed system on a normal mtb is a shockingly short lifespan IME
No. Not everyone.
How often you shift a front mech. How you use the shifter, How you pedal when shifting at the front, when you shift and what gear combinations you use ALL contribute to different stresses on the chain (and WILL contribute to chain wear rates).
But let's just leave it there now, eh?
Yep, its right there beneath me and easy to see. But as I said I try to never shift under load. Its all about looking ahead and getting my timing right. But I was never racing, so I was under no imperative to shift under load.Ever watched "how" a front derrailleur shifts a chain up at low cadence under load? it's really not pretty.
and it's often even worse with a triple, or a double with a large jump between rings
Why Aluminum chainring instead of the more durable steel?Around 3000miles (yes, varies dependeng on conditions)
I change the chainring with each cassette too (£7 chinese Alu NWs)
Chainsuck is something you REALLY do NOT want to happen on a mid drive motor bike
Why Aluminum chainring instead of the more durable steel?
And what is NW, please?
Was told the same by a bike mechanic I met.......makes sense also on my knees !It seams to me we need to be like Gary for better chain life..I.E MORE PEDDLING in a lower gear (MORE revolutions but less torque on the chain) rather than cruising in a higher gear with less revolutions and higher torque .
Because it's £7 instead of £40+ for a steel version.Why Aluminum chainring instead of the more durable steel?
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