Orbea Rise - Shimano SC-EM800 Installation

[Rod B.]

Thanks again for the parts list- I'll give the it a go myself. My Rise is my first E-bike as well and I have learned how to fix things - through trail and error ( the hard way). My LBS and my wife ( wife not so much ) gets a good laugh when I try to fix something but end up at his shop anyway. But my trips top the repair shop have become way less frequent - I totally agree with you - if I don't try to fix my Ebike - I'll never learn.
The only part about nervous about it having to drop the motor IF I loose tension on the cable. Time will tell. Live and learn .

I'm sure I can ride my Rise as is but the dropper post will get annoying quickly. However I'm in NorCal - the rain has been epic lately - the trails are as bad as I've ever seen them. Can't see riding my Rise in the muck. Love my Rise and put 2000 mikes on it since bought it 1 year ago - although I do enjoy riding my 28 pound Stump Jumper on occasion - up hill on it not so much.

The Rise is such a good bike. Mine had close to 3,200 miles on it when I sold it to my brother. It's still going strong, I just got tired of riding it and wanted to try something different. I bought a Pivot Shuttle SL, which promptly broke after five rides. Fazua was having issues with sourcing a new warranty motor. I didn't want to wait a month for a new motor shipped from Germany. I traded the bike in for a new Levo Carbon Comp with Rockshox ZEB 170mm Ultimate fork and I9 Enduro S alloy wheels.

There will come a time where you will need to drop the motor whether to check for wire chaffing, replace a shifter/dropper cable housing etc. I would suggest buying a Shimano lockring nut tool. Park Tool sells the LRT-2 which works well. Have the tool on hand in case you screw the pooch on the dropper cable installation. It's not a difficult process to drop the motor.

A 1/4" newton meter torque wrench is nice to have when working around carbon frames and light allow components. I suggest buying a low range 2-20 Nm torque wrench because they are more accurate at the smaller torque levels used on the Rise. A 200 Nm 1/2" drive torque wrench won't be as accurate at four or eight newton meters. I've been happy with the Pro Bike Tool, 2 - 20 Nm, 1/4 Inch Torque Wrench which is sold on Amazon. It comes with good quality hex and star sockets.

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[scarl]

Thanks Again - I bought the torque wrench months ago and it has proven it's worth. I used it often. The LRT-2 is a good idea. Funny you should mention the Pivot SL. By chance I ended up in a shop in Truckee Ca New Year Day after snowboarding that had 2 SL. Sure looks like it would be a fun bike and probably handle DH chuck better than the Rise. The owner of the shop had nothing but good things to says about the bike and has sold several. I would of like to had given it a test ride. However I really love my Rise - Last summer I made it a mullet and went with a DVO topaz - which I liked better than the float x. However being a trail bike - it never really handles high speed DH chuck very well. Recently, I switched it up and went 170 front and switched the DVO for a coil. I was concerned about loosing the pop on jumps with coil but after riding it 3x it feels like just as good on jumps /drops and definitely more composed on High speed DH chuck. More testing remains but I like what I see so far. I know it's not an Enduro bike but I've made it just a close as can be.
BTW - My dropper post is fixed - long story but the barrel adjuster wasn't completed toast more like operator error. Now I need the trails to dry out on NorCal to get back to it.
Most of my E-mtb friends all have Levo's and love the full power. Hope it all works out for you on yours. While I can't keep up with them on most climbs and I'm never that far behind especailly on tech
Take Care and thanks again for your help.

 

[MOTO13]

The conversion from the Shimano SC-E5000 display to the sc-em800 display should be the same for a Husky HC7, correct? Same cables, jumper etc...??

 

[Rod B.]

Thanks Again - I bought the torque wrench months ago and it has proven it's worth. I used it often. The LRT-2 is a good idea. Funny you should mention the Pivot SL. By chance I ended up in a shop in Truckee Ca New Year Day after snowboarding that had 2 SL. Sure looks like it would be a fun bike and probably handle DH chuck better than the Rise. The owner of the shop had nothing but good things to says about the bike and has sold several. I would of like to had given it a test ride. However I really love my Rise - Last summer I made it a mullet and went with a DVO topaz - which I liked better than the float x. However being a trail bike - it never really handles high speed DH chuck very well. Recently, I switched it up and went 170 front and switched the DVO for a coil. I was concerned about loosing the pop on jumps with coil but after riding it 3x it feels like just as good on jumps /drops and definitely more composed on High speed DH chuck. More testing remains but I like what I see so far. I know it's not an Enduro bike but I've made it just a close as can be.
BTW - My dropper post is fixed - long story but the barrel adjuster wasn't completed toast more like operator error. Now I need the trails to dry out on NorCal to get back to it.
Most of my E-mtb friends all have Levo's and love the full power. Hope it all works out for you on yours. While I can't keep up with them on most climbs and I'm never that far behind especailly on tech
Take Care and thanks again for your help

The conversion from the Shimano SC-E5000 display to the sc-em800 display should be the same for a Husky HC7, correct? Same cables, jumper etc...??

The conversion from the Shimano SC-E5000 display to the sc-em800 display should be the same for a Husky HC7, correct? Same cables, jumper etc...??

Moto13,

I'm not familiar with the electronics layout on the Husky. I went online to check the owner's manual. Unfortunately the manual does not provide an electronic schematic. If you send some close up pictures of the cockpit wiring, the SC-E5000 display, mode switch, etc. I would then be able to better answer your question.

 

[MOTO13]

Moto13,

I'm not familiar with the electronics layout on the Husky. I went online to check the owner's manual. Unfortunately the manual does not provide an electronic schematic. If you send some close up pictures of the cockpit wiring, the SC-E5000 display, mode switch, etc. I would then be able to better answer your question.

I will. Yeah, the OM didn't show me anything. Thank you.

 

[Tubby G]

Slightly off topic but kind of relevant. I need to replace the SW-E7000l controller switch as it has broken in a fall

The controller is wired into the EW-EN100 junction box

I can’t find a wiring diagram online anywhere. Does anyone know if they are simply plug & play ? Is there a method of pulling the cable out of the junction box safely or does a sharp tug do the job ? I don’t want to pull it out and break anything! Thanks

 

[Rod B.]

Slightly off topic but kind of relevant. I need to replace the SW-E7000l controller switch as it has broken in a fall

The controller is wired into the EW-EN100 junction box

I can’t find a wiring diagram online anywhere. Does anyone know if they are simply plug & play ? Is there a method of pulling the cable out of the junction box safely or does a sharp tug do the job ? I don’t want to pull it out and break anything! Thanks

Tubby,

The SW-E7000L(L = Left hand side, R = Right hand side) plugs into the EW-EN100 junction box. It's an easy fix and requires no modifications. You simply need to pull the old lead wire out of the junction box and insert the new lead into the junction box. About the only hassle in the installation process is you will need to disassemble the left side of the handlebar to remove the old switch and slide the new one into place on the handlebar.

The wire lead from the mode switch detents into the junction box with a slight click. You will encounter a slight bit of resistance when trying to pull the old mode switch wire out of the junction box. The resistance is intentional. Shimano designed the wire lead so that it wouldn't rattle loose and fall out of the junction box. If that should occur, your bike will shut off and won't work until you plug the wire back into the junction box (Ask me how I know).

If you bought your bike new, it should come with a Shimano TL-EW02 wire plug tool in the owner's kit. The tool is used to remove and install Di2 wire without having to resort to yanking or pushing on the delicate wire and possibly damaging it. The tool has an offset fork on one end. Insert the fork into the groove molded into the SD50 wire lead and lever the wire out of the junction box. To avoid kinking the new lead when inserting it into the junction box, use the other end of the tool which is used to push the wire lead into the junction box.

Be safe,
Rod

TL-EW02 Di2 E-Tube Wire Plug Tool

Note the groove molded into end of SD50 wire lead. Simply insert fork end of TL-EW02 tool into the groove and lever the lead out of the EW-EN100 junction box.

 

[Tubby G]

Tubby,

The SW-E7000L(L = Left hand side, R = Right hand side) plugs into the EW-EN100 junction box. It's an easy fix and requires no modifications. You simply need to pull the old lead wire out of the junction box and insert the new lead into the junction box. About the only hassle in the installation process is you will need to disassemble the left side of the handlebar to remove the old switch and slide the new one into place on the handlebar.

The wire lead from the mode switch detents into the junction box with a slight click. You will encounter a slight bit of resistance when trying to pull the old mode switch wire out of the junction box. The resistance is intentional. Shimano designed the wire lead so that it wouldn't rattle loose and fall out of the junction box. If that should occur, your bike will shut off and won't work until you plug the wire back into the junction box (Ask me how I know).

If you bought your bike new, it should come with a Shimano TL-EW02 wire plug tool in the owner's kit. The tool is used to remove and install Di2 wire without having to resort to yanking or pushing on the delicate wire and possibly damaging it. The tool has an offset fork on one end. Insert the fork into the groove molded into the SD50 wire lead and lever the wire out of the junction box. To avoid kinking the new lead when inserting it into the junction box, use the other end of the tool which is used to push the wire lead into the junction box.

Be safe,
Rod

TL-EW02 Di2 E-Tube Wire Plug Tool
View attachment 123147

Note the groove molded into end of SD50 wire lead. Simply insert fork end of TL-EW02 tool into the groove and lever the lead out of the EW-EN100 junction box.

View attachment 123148

Perfect, thanks Rod, appreciate your more than thorough reply

 

[SP5657]

Thank you for taking the time to put this guide together! Really helped me install the Sc-EM800 on my Rise I went for option one, dropped the fork and then cheated slightly at the sacrifice of the SD50 cable plugged into the adapter, I cut it and pulled that out and found there was enough room for the SD300 that’s in the down tube to push through without removing the dropper post cable. Relocated the adapter with the new 150mm cable and it works perfectly! I thought I’m not going to need the cable I removed so made a management decision the remaining cable in the tube did need a bit of persuasion but got enough through no worries.

 

[shredjim]

I followed Rod's excellent tutorial a few years ago. I made a mistake with the dropper cable and had to drop the motor to get it back in. With encouragement from Rod it wasn't that difficult. It sure makes the bike better with the display!

 

[Rod B.]

You guys made my day, thank you!

 

[SP5657]

I followed Rod's excellent tutorial a few years ago. I made a mistake with the dropper cable and had to drop the motor to get it back in. With encouragement from Rod it wasn't that difficult. It sure makes the bike better with the display!

100% I only want to see battery life, don't want a phone on the bars or to shell out for a Garmin, I'll look at my route in Strava after I have finished This guide was a hugeeeee help Kudos