New brakes. Magura MT7

[RodC]

Hi everyone. I just installed Magura MT7 on my turbo Levo. First I did it myself and now I just pick it up from the Magura dealer.
The problem is that the brakes are really not braking hard.... according to the dealer it’s because the pads are new and I should wait until they break in.
Is this correct? Or should I expect a hard braking since the beginning?

 

[118]

Bed your pads in, then report back..

 

[Rusty]

I am guessing you also replaced your rotors?
If so, the best thing is to find a decent, long downhill and just gently drag them all the way down. After a brief cool-off period they should work much better.
If you didn't replace the rotors - give them a decent clean and then remove the pads out of your Maguras and give them a light sand.

 

[RodC]

I am guessing you also replaced your rotors?
If so, the best thing is to find a decent, long downhill and just gently drag them all the way down. After a brief cool-off period they should work much better.
If you didn't replace the rotors - give them a decent clean and then remove the pads out of your Maguras and give them a light sand.

thanks. Yes I replaced rotors.
This brings back my fate. I was scared something was wrong with the frágil carbón system.

 

[Funkeydunk]

thanks. Yes I replaced rotors.
This brings back my fate. I was scared something was wrong with the frágil carbón system.

I replaced my brakes with MT7’s a couple of months ago. Some of my experience my help:
the pads supplied never bedded in and were shite, I binned them off for some UBER pads.
It took ages to get the back brake to play nice, about 10 bleeds to get the back brake to bite properly. But got there in the end.
you’ll have to accept that the rotors (mine are magura) will ever so slightly rub the pad, you have to be a surgeon to get them set up as the clearance is so fine.
when you have sorted all that, they’re very powerful, lovely feel. Btw the adjuster knob on the lever does nothing, I’ve never felt any any difference when turning it either way.

hope this helps.

 

[p3eps]

I replaced my brakes with MT7’s a couple of months ago. Some of my experience my help:
the pads supplied never bedded in and were shite, I binned them off for some UBER pads.
It took ages to get the back brake to play nice, about 10 bleeds to get the back brake to bite properly. But got there in the end.
you’ll have to accept that the rotors (mine are magura) will ever so slightly rub the pad, you have to be a surgeon to get them set up as the clearance is so fine.
when you have sorted all that, they’re very powerful, lovely feel. Btw the adjuster knob on the lever does nothing, I’ve never felt any any difference when turning it either way.

hope this helps.

Much the same as my experience too.
Front one bled fine and has an ever so slight rub sometimes.
Rear was a pig, and took about 15 bleeds to get it right. I’d bleed 3 or 4 times and it’d feel fine - then go for a ride, and the bite point would sink!
Got it perfect now, and it doesn’t run at all.

Lever bite adjustments do nothing for me either! Ordered some Nukeproof pads the other day - hoping they arrive today!

 

[Rosemount]

MT5 on my Cube 160 .
Been back to the shop for bleeding 3 times , 1 OTB , 2 rides cut short . Owned the bike 2 weeks .

When they are working properly they are very good . Strong and good modulation . Not a fan of the levers .

Ordered a bleed kit of my own .From Epic Bleeds . I reckon I can fck it up just as well as the mechanics at the LBS . And ,save myself 2 hours travel time .

 

[cozzy]

I replaced my brakes with MT7’s a couple of months ago. Some of my experience my help:
the pads supplied never bedded in and were shite, I binned them off for some UBER pads.
It took ages to get the back brake to play nice, about 10 bleeds to get the back brake to bite properly. But got there in the end.
you’ll have to accept that the rotors (mine are magura) will ever so slightly rub the pad, you have to be a surgeon to get them set up as the clearance is so fine.
when you have sorted all that, they’re very powerful, lovely feel. Btw the adjuster knob on the lever does nothing, I’ve never felt any any difference when turning it either way.

hope this helps.

Ha yes that mirrors my experience. Ultimately the levers leaked so I cut them off & replaced with xt levers for the shigura brake! Loads better & work superbly.

 

[RodC]

Thank you guys. I suffered the same.
it seems there was something wrong (either my mistake or the quality) with the olives and the thingy on the top no seating well. I did many bleeds and when pressed the lever it would put air in the system.
Today I will bed them hardly.

 

[Rosemount]

Ha yes that mirrors my experience. Ultimately the levers leaked so I cut them off & replaced with xt levers for the shigura brake! Loads better & work superbly.

Hmmmm , I have a Cube 2019 140 with XT brakes .
The Magura are crap in comparison IMO . Tempted to swap over the levers to my 2020 160 . A cpl of olives and some barbs + a hose cutter ?

 

[ebikerider]

Hmmmm , I have a Cube 2019 140 with XT brakes .
The Magura are crap in comparison IMO . Tempted to swap over the levers to my 2020 160 . A cpl of olives and some barbs + a hose cutter ?

I've owned Shimano and Magura brakes and the Magura consistently outperform the Shimano. Yes they can be tricky to bleed correctly, especially the rear if the line is internally routed but once you work out the Magura's bleed preference on the bike they are sensational. Use with Magura race pads or with a set of Trickstuff and they are set and forget. Shimano with the wandering bite point and SRAM with everything under the Code RSC being rubbish it's an easy choice.

The Shigura combo seems to be a popular option when there are issues with the Magura lever, whether that be thru faulty masters or an incomplete bleed procedure but I haven't had the need to try it so far. I think using the Shimano levers with Magura calipers also removes the wandering bite point issue too.

 

[Rosemount]

Wandering bite point ?
Had a bike with Deore , another with XT . I don`t think the modulation wandered ? Read that a few times online . Not experienced it myself ??

Shimano, the brakes apply much earlier in the lever stroke . Magura gotta pull the lever in a lot further . Shimano XT lever stroke adj works . Magura not .
Magura is def powerful brakes , when they are working right . This more than 1 bleed by professionals is BS ! Magura with better levers might be the sweet spot .

 

[RodC]

I made my purchase decision, based on this review. The best eMTB disc brake you can buy | E-MOUNTAINBIKE Magazine

they don’t tell much about the frágil levers.
Also, for the price of these brakes, the instructions that come with the brakes is a shame!!! These are ugly copies and outdated. Luckily there are some good videos.

 

[I want my 2 Dollars!]

I am guessing you also replaced your rotors?
If so, the best thing is to find a decent, long downhill and just gently drag them all the way down. After a brief cool-off period they should work much better.
If you didn't replace the rotors - give them a decent clean and then remove the pads out of your Maguras and give them a light sand.

Sorry, I know you out rank me but this isn't how you bed new brakes and rotors. It's actually how you glaze them. Which isn't good. Do a search. Multiple fast stops - first short distance from 10mph to zero then from 15mph to zero - quickly.

 

[RodC]

Sorry, I know you out rank me but this isn't how you bed new brakes and rotors. It's actually how you glaze them. Which isn't good. Do a search. Multiple fast stops - first short distance from 10mph to zero then from 15mph to zero - quickly.

According to Magura it’s as you mention. 30 stops from 30km/hr using only rear. Then the same for front.

 

[I want my 2 Dollars!]

According to Magura it’s as you mention. 30 stops from 30km/hr using only rear. Then the same for front.

I think the idea is to keep the rotors hot and press the pads hard against the rotors but not for a prolonged set period. Like would happen rolling down a big hill. The pads need to come off and then back on the rotor. There is a coating on some new pads that needs to be worn off. But there is more to it than that.

 

[Rusty]

I think the idea is to keep the rotors hot and press the pads hard against the rotors but not for a prolonged set period. Like would happen rolling down a big hill. The pads need to come off and then back on the rotor. There is a coating on some new pads that needs to be worn off. But there is more to it than that.

There are many top wrenches that are for doing it one way and many for the other. I do it the way I was told to do it when disk brakes first became readily available on MTB bikes as it was similar to how I used to bed in brakes (disk and drum) on racing motorcycles. The only time I had a glazing issue was when there was some real contamination of the rotors on a new bike. Ended up having both rotors replaced under warranty as I could not resolve the issue. Gently dragging the brakes does many things, such as it allows the pads to get a heat temper, which should allow them to work more consistently over a long period, it burns off some contaminants off the rotors and allows the pads to conform to any inconsistencies on the rotor surface. Doing a series of hard stops should do the last two, but I am not sure it would do the first.

Haven't seen any pads with a coating but there will be a slight film from the plastic packaging that will burn off. They used to shrink-wrap pads in a package and that process adds to the film.

I do however wipe my rotors with Isopropyl Alcohol prior to first use and if I see anything on the cleaning tissue I will remove the pads and inspect them.

 

[cozzy]

Hmmmm , I have a Cube 2019 140 with XT brakes .
The Magura are crap in comparison IMO . Tempted to swap over the levers to my 2020 160 . A cpl of olives and some barbs + a hose cutter ?

To fit Shimano levers to magura lines you need the Shimano compression nut, rubber cover, olive and barb. I've used both Shimano and magura olives and barbs. The magura line is .1mm larger internal dia i recall. I used Shimano fluid.

 

[Jackware]

The issue that lots of these threads ignore is that manufacturers spends lots of money on R&D and quality control during manufacture BUT they have no control on how the parts are installed on the bikes during assembly or when your LBC preps it pre sale.
Personally I've had 3 bikes with Magura MT series brakes including the MT5 that I upgraded by using the MT7 style pads using a combo of EBC Green and Gold pads and learned how to bleed them according to Magura's own excellent videos.
I'd have no hesitation in specing them again as they have been trouble free, have great modulation and are very powerful. YMMV of course. ?

 

[RodC]

The issue that lots of these threads ignore is that manufacturers spends lots of money on R&D and quality control during manufacture BUT they have no control on how the parts are installed on the bikes during assembly or when your LBC preps it pre sale.
Personally I've had 3 bikes with Magura MT series brakes including the MT5 that I upgraded by using the MT7 style pads using a combo of EBC Green and Gold pads and learned how to bleed them according to Magura's own excellent videos.
I'd have no hesitation in specing them again as they have been trouble free, have great modulation and are very powerful. YMMV of course. ?

I have no doubt about the MT7 being great brakes, as I said I read the review. Many people tested them and agree that are superb brakes.
Anyhow It seems their R&D department and designers are more efficient oriented, than user friendly. It seems you need experience and high precision to set these brakes.

As mentioned the dam screw Carbotecture plastic is only 0.4nm and can easily be damaged. That’s for experienced mechanics and not the std bike rider who do some installations. That’s something other brands are more easy on.

 

[Jackware]

As mentioned the dam screw Carbotecture plastic is only 0.4nm and can easily be damaged. That’s for experienced mechanics and not the std bike rider who do some installations. That’s something other brands are more easy on.

No, IMO that just requires a 'std bike rider' to use common sense instead of excessive force on a small plastic screw.

 

[RodC]

No, IMO that just requires a 'std bike rider' to use common sense instead of excessive force on a small plastic screw.

beleive me it’s not excessive. 0.4nm is crazy.

 

[RodC]

No, IMO that just requires a 'std bike rider' to use common sense instead of excessive force on a small plastic screw.

And I have a lot of common sense and mechanical capabilities.... only I lacked the experience with these brakes. Even the dealer told me these are tricky brakes to setup correctly.

anyhow. I started this thread since I was afraid the lack of braking was because an installation error... but it seems it just requieres some good bedding .

 

[Jackware]

And I have a lot of common sense and mechanical capabilities.... only I lacked the experience with these brakes. Even the dealer told me these are tricky brakes to setup correctly.

anyhow. I started this thread since I was afraid the lack of braking was because an installation error... but it seems it just requieres some good bedding .

Fair enough, but that's my point, it's not Magura's fault that people including dealers don't RTFM.

Another advantage of these brakes (MT7 pads) is that if they get glazed or contaminated, removing them and roughing up the pad surface is a quick and easy job.

 

[thewrx]

nicely done, MT7's are necesary for anyone riding an ebike like you should. You will probably go through pads quick, but thats ok just wait till there is a sale from the online stores and keep them for when your ready.

I would recommend going with a 2 piece rotor up front also, and make sure you bed your pads in correctly otherwise going to have squeaky brakes and chew through your pads/rotors prematurely.

 

[RodC]

nicely done, MT7's are necesary for anyone riding an ebike like you should. You will probably go through pads quick, but thats ok just wait till there is a sale from the online stores and keep them for when your ready.

I would recommend going with a 2 piece rotor up front also, and make sure you bed your pads in correctly otherwise going to have squeaky brakes and chew through your pads/rotors prematurely.

thanks. Yes i got both, front and rear, two piece rotors.
I got the green pads, that come with the new MT5ebike brakes. These according to Magura are mora durable.

 

[Rosemount]

And I have a lot of common sense and mechanical capabilities.... only I lacked the experience with these brakes. Even the dealer told me these are tricky brakes to setup correctly.

anyhow. I started this thread since I was afraid the lack of braking was because an installation error... but it seems it just requieres some good bedding .

The Magura brakes seem to be fcking with bike mechanics world wide .
I `m down under in Oz . 3 mechanics , 3 trips to the bike shop ,one time for 3 days while they checked again , and 4 hours of travel time .
Never heard of that kind of BS with Shimano ?

You might say I`m not impressed by Magura . Yes they are strong . But if the cant be relied on they don`t inspire confidence .

Oh and a bleed kit ? Have to order from the UK ...

So the design as far as stopping power may be good . But user friendly womp - wah .