Most durable drivetrain parts for an Ebike?

[Eljay]

It makes sense with all the power and torque we put on these things, but I find i'm wearing through my drivetrain way faster on my Levo than my pedal bikes, especially the chain - these KMC Ebike chains seem to be pretty crappy - and I keep my drivetrain meticulously clean and lubed with favorable conditions here in California. What is everybody finding to be the longest lasting replacement parts for drivetrain? I'm thinking of just getting the cheapest heavy duty steel components I can find like a steel Sram XG-1150 cassette, steel chainring, and PC1110 chain. Anybody have any thoughts? Thanks!

Sorry if this has been covered in another thread, but I did a search and couldn't find one so please let me know if there is already a thread on this.

Cheers!

 

[The Flying Dutchman]

Cheap steel for the win!!

You could also consider swapping to an 8 speed drive terrain. I've already ordered mine:
Box Four 8S Wide Groupset

Keep in mind that you will need also need to swap to Shimao driver body if you have an Sram XD

 

[Oldcrank]

Anyone using Sram EX-1 group ?
8 speed & expensive! Large range, 11>48. Super rugged for e-MTB.

 

[Niklas]

Anyone using Sram EX-1 group ?
8 speed & expensive! Large range, 11>48. Super rugged for e-MTB.

I do and it’s really good I think, like the bigger jumps between gears!

 

[Ranger]

Good choice on the steel cassette and chainring but personally I'd run a better chain. The PC1110 is one of the cheapest chains SRAM has available. You may find you get longer life out of SRAM's higher end chains.

 

[Eljay]

Keep in mind that you will need also need to swap to Shimao driver body if you have an Sram XD

I like this wide range 8-speed concept but the splined Shimano driver body is a deal breaker for me - I used to gouge the hell out of those things on pedal bikes - I can only imagine what the torque of an Ebike will do to them - IMO Sram xD driver is such a better design

 

[Eljay]

Good choice on the steel cassette and chainring but personally I'd run a better chain. The PC1110 is one of the cheapest chains SRAM has available. You may find you get longer life out of SRAM's higher end chains.

Is it just the chain that will wear faster or will the lower quality chains actually wear the cogs much faster? (assuming of course you change the chain before it over-stretches?)

 

[Intermtb]

Check out 9 speed Box Component with 11-50t cassette, the Box guy said it is ebike approved.
I have the drivetrain on my evil following and add-on ebike for awhile, never had any issue on both bike.

 

[Ranger]

Is it just the chain that will wear faster or will the lower quality chains actually wear the cogs much faster? (assuming of course you change the chain before it over-stretches?)

I don't have a lot of experience with life expectancy of steel cogs and rings, I've typically always run mid to high end cassettes and rings with the highest quality chain available on my personal bikes. I had a customer with the chain you are speaking of specifically in your first post, the PC1110 and I found it wore out rather quickly, though replacement cost is inexpensive. I actually just found this article Chain Testing - Zero Friction Cycling and it confirms my experience with that chain.

Spend less on a chain and replace it more often or spend more and replace it less often, also it may be more efficient. You decide what fits your needs

 

[Peaky Rider]

I would love to get rid of my GX Eagle 12 speed for many reasons, the main one being that it is a PITA to index, but my Mavic wheels do not have the Shimano compatible freehub so my choice is limited.
Also, I wouldn't be happy podding out £600 on an EX 1 set up that I know will be worn out or broken within twelve months.

 

[Hasse Birkmose]

I am (also) commuting so the smaller cogs on the back gets eaten away in a hurry.
Shimano Slx casette went in only 4 weeks.
Now i run sram NX with the solid pin chains. I have tre chains that i change between for longevity.
Last NX casette took me 12 weeks to wear on the 11 spd. ring.
First motorbrand to integrate a gearbox - SOLD!

 

[StealthChesnut]

Anyone using Sram EX-1 group ?
8 speed & expensive! Large range, 11>48. Super rugged for e-MTB.

Yes. I'm dreading the cost of replacing the cassette!

In use it seems OK, but I find the jump between gears is large and I've not adapted to it yet. At 15.5mph I'm either spinning the pedals like roadrunner or grinding it out in the next gear up. Either way, I struggle to get faster than the motor cut-out threshold.

That said, its likely just a combination of tyre pressure / resistance / wind / unfitness.

 

[Oldcrank]

I would like to see PINION gears in a Yamaha motor with a Gates belt drive!
?

 

[steve_sordy]

I would love to get rid of my GX Eagle 12 speed for many reasons, the main one being that it is a PITA to index, .............

Ditto here on my clockwork bike, until I had the mech hanger aligned. Then again, then again, costing me about £10 each time from the LBS. Then I bought a mech hanger gauge and alignment tool (ParkTool, but there are others). I used the tool to get the alignment spot on, instead of within 3mm as recommended to be good enough. Shifting was flawless and any subsequent indexing was quick and easy to do.
The tool is one of those items that never looks to be worth the money, until you get one!
You can use it on any bike and wheel size.

 

[Peaky Rider]

Ditto here on my clockwork bike, until I had the mech hanger aligned. Then again, then again, costing me about £10 each time from the LBS. Then I bought a mech hanger gauge and alignment tool (ParkTool, but there are others). I used the tool to get the alignment spot on, instead of within 3mm as recommended to be good enough. Shifting was flawless and any subsequent indexing was quick and easy to do.
The tool is one of those items that never looks to be worth the money, until you get one!
You can use it on any bike and wheel size.

Hi Steve

Trued the hanger on my Jam2 Drifter by eye, fitted new jockey wheels, new chain and super efficient (super expensive) inner and outer cables. Could get it to shift perfectly upwards but not the middle three gears down. Or, could get it to shift perfectly downwards but not the middle three upwards.

So I bought a new GX derailleur, made no difference.

As a result of your eulogising about the miracle properties of the alignment tool in many of your posts I bit the bullet and bought one. A bit of an expense for something you are going to use once every two to three years, if that, and I've managed without one for thirty years so far, but I was desperate.

Somewhat disappointingly, the alignment tool proved I have a pretty good eye when it comes to straightening hangers and showed mine to be spot on.

I am no novice when it comes to indexing gears and also watched every 'how to' video on You Tube but all to no avail. The only thing left to change now is the handlebar pod.

Ironically, the NX Eagle 12 speed on my Canyon Spectral On shifts into every ratio with the click of a well oiled rifle, but then so did the GX one on my Focus for the first six months.

 

[steve_sordy]

...............

As a result of your eulogising about the miracle properties of the alignment tool in many of your posts I bit the bullet and bought one. A bit of an expense for something you are going to use once every two to three years, if that, and I've managed without one for thirty years so far, but I was desperate.

Somewhat disappointingly, the alignment tool proved I have a pretty good eye when it comes to straightening hangers and showed mine to be spot on.

...............

Oh dear! Eulogising eh!
Memo to brain, watch out for the eulogising!!

I too had managed quite well without one, but that was on 5, 6, 8, 9, and 10-speed. The need for increased accuracy of shifting that 11 and 12-speed set ups require mean that good alignment is more important.
Once I'd bought an alignment tool, I used it on both my bikes (11 & 12-speed) and my grandson's bike (10sp) with good effect. Each time I gave my 12-speed mech a knock I had to use it again. Then suddenly I stopped knocking the mech! Maybe I was just riding elsewhere, or maybe I had adapted my riding style, I just don't know. Then I sold both those bikes and bought an emtb. This one was an 11-speed but shifting was improved with the use of the alignment tool. I haven't used it much since though I must admit.

PS: I admire your restraint in not taking me to task earlier, once you realised that the alignment tool was money ill spent.

 

[Peaky Rider]

Oh dear! Eulogising eh!
Memo to brain, watch out for the eulogising!!

I too had managed quite well without one, but that was on 5, 6, 8, 9, and 10-speed. The need for increased accuracy of shifting that 11 and 12-speed set ups require mean that good alignment is more important.
Once I'd bought an alignment tool, I used it on both my bikes (11 & 12-speed) and my grandson's bike (10sp) with good effect. Each time I gave my 12-speed mech a knock I had to use it again. Then suddenly I stopped knocking the mech! Maybe I was just riding elsewhere, or maybe I had adapted my riding style, I just don't know. Then I sold both those bikes and bought an emtb. This one was an 11-speed but shifting was improved with the use of the alignment tool. I haven't used it much since though I must admit.

PS: I admire your restraint in not taking me to task earlier, once you realised that the alignment tool was money ill spent.

It wasn't too much money, should have been £60 + but found one on Ebay for £28. Could probably sell it again tomorrow for a profit if I wanted.

 

[MB1]

I’m running EX1 on the Mondraker and like it. Early days yet (only 300k on it ) chain checker and inspection shows all like new. Shifting is as solid as you can get even under power, which is one of its most significant advantages. There is the odd occasion (usually on a long firetrack) when you could just do wth the gear in the middle, but it’s a small price for the overall simplicity of 8sp and the solid shifting.
I also have an old Haibike Hard 7 which I fitted with XT 2x10 (originally 1x9). It’s up to a tough 1500km with little sign of serious wear. I’ve had a KMC ebike chain on it for the last 1000km, it’s worn, but my shimano chain checker is still short of suggesting a replacement. I have been really strict on ensuring I unload any power before shifting with this one though.
Overall I originally changed the Haibike from 1x9 to 2x10 because I was convinced it was better. Hindsight tells me it just adds complexity and weight, I rarely ever use the larger front ring.
1x10 is probably the best compromise for range and durability, and if the likes of EX1 is too expensive, XT is hard to beat for reliability as long as your wheel supports both. I also swear by the KMC ebike chain (doesn’t go rusty either?).

 

[DrStupid]

My 1x10 gets put through hell every ride lately and just keeps going with no need for adjustments. This mess was after 2 days of no rain to.... dry out things a bit.

It's been like this every ride for the last month or so.

Using the medium range cassette 11-36 means chains and cassettes are cheap, even the good ones.

The zee FR derailleur is so far the only derailleur to last more than a dozen rides without needing something.


How long before it wears out... I dont know. But I can say, In my short experience, 10 speeds like what I'm using now are less prone to break and require less TLC.

 

[Peaky Rider]

View attachment 24505 My 1x10 gets put through hell every ride lately and just keeps going with no need for adjustments. This mess was after 2 days of no rain to.... dry out things a bit.

It's been like this every ride for the last month or so.

Using the medium range cassette 11-36 means chains and cassettes are cheap, even the good ones.

The zee FR derailleur is so far the only derailleur to last more than a dozen rides without needing something.


How long before it wears out... I dont know. But I can say, In my short experience, 10 speeds like what I'm using now are less prone to break and require less TLC.

11 to 36 and 10 speed, that's a lot of shifting for not much range. Even with a motor I'd be doing a lot of pushing where I ride with just a 36 top end.
I do like the idea of a 10 speed though.

 

[DrStupid]

11 to 36 and 10 speed, that's a lot of shifting for not much range. Even with a motor I'd be doing a lot of pushing where I ride with just a 36 top end.
I do like the idea of a 10 speed though.

It works for me. I put a 30T chainring on it and almost never peddle above the assist level. A loop around my trails avereges 12 mph with only 3 or 4 sections where I'm above the 20mph assist. It's not for everyone forsure.

 

[The Flying Dutchman]

It works for me. I put a 30T chainring on it and almost never peddle above the assist level. A loop around my trails avereges 12 mph with only 3 or 4 sections where I'm above the 20mph assist. It's not for everyone forsure. View attachment 24510

interesting setup......how does it go on steep stuff?

 

[DrStupid]

Here was the stock gearing. I found that I seldom used the largest cog even on super steep stuff.

And here it is now. My new first gear is lower than the original second gear. So yeah it climbs good, at the expense of top speed. But, in tenth gear, peddling at 100 RPM, I'm just clipping the assist.

You can use this web calculator to display the setup however you like, for me the speed at cadence is good enough.

 

[DrStupid]

11 to 36 and 10 speed, that's a lot of shifting for not much range. Even with a motor I'd be doing a lot of pushing where I ride with just a 36 top end.
I do like the idea of a 10 speed though.

I'd be more than happy with the range on this one (m6000) and the price is awesome, but the cage is too long for my riding right now. As my trails get beat down, and cleaned out a little next summer, I'll likely be able to use it.

 

[Rusty]

Steel Chain Ring and Cassettes are definitely the way to go with eMTB.
As far as chains go I would stay away from anything that has hollow pins or non solid side plates. From long experience on my Singlespeed hollow pins crush under load and side plates break on the flash lightweight chains.

 

[Trail-Niels]

Steel Chain Ring and Cassettes are definitely the way to go with eMTB.
As far as chains go I would stay away from anything that has hollow pins or non solid side plates. From long experience on my Singlespeed hollow pins crush under load and side plates break on the flash lightweight chains.

On which hollow pin chains do you experience that they crush?
To my experience (from analogue bikes however since I’m pretty new to eMTB) the SRAM Eagle XO1 hollow pin is a workhorse that has exceeded my expectations by far in durability.

 

[Nebben00]

Shimano all The way. SlX group I cant understa d anybody serious rider who want 12 speed I in for 10 or i hope fully in The future 1speed drivetrain like MX SRAM sounds good but in teality expensive and cant stans mud. I have pulled off cogs of my xo casset on my analog enduro never ever happen to a shimano casset.

 

[Clint026]

I put a box 1 e spec 9 speed drivetrain on my 2020 kenevo and so far I really like it, I shift under power no problems, it's a wide range cassette (11-50) and the shifter is single shift only. The shift quality is smooth and precise. I would highly recommend for anyone looking for a new drivetrain but if you are coming from a sram XD driver it will not work, it uses a standard freehub body.

 

[Gdogg]

I use a box two 9 speed cassette (for e bikes) 11-50 range,a wipperman stainless steel chain and an American eagle billit hanger 1800+ miles and still perfect shifting,

 

[DrStupid]

I put a box 1 e spec 9 speed drivetrain on my 2020 kenevo and so far I really like it, I shift under power no problems, it's a wide range cassette (11-50) and the shifter is single shift only. The shift quality is smooth and precise. I would highly recommend for anyone looking for a new drivetrain but if you are coming from a sram XD driver it will not work, it uses a standard freehub body.

I bought one of their 8 speed systems to test it out and check compatabilty..it is supposed to ship in February. Looking forward for something to test.