Menabo Chrono 26-29´´ Road/MTB Bike Rack

[Whitby Chris]

Hi all,

Is anyone using this rack? I have been out of riding for a while due to work / illness but am returning.

I have a Thule XT on the family car with the tow bar but with the company car its going to either go in that back but at times also on the roof but fingers crossed not often, I have the altera roof rack witch is great but need to put the new bike on them, any recommendations are welcome thanks

 

[Mario Antony]

Had/Have one.


My word: I wouldn't buy, it has a Big Design Flaw!

Let me explain.

On picture one, you can see the support and then:

1. The red semi-circle is the front wheel, being the red arrow "W", the weight of the front Axle.
2. This weight is then transfer to the Menabo Chrono:
   1. Acting as a Force (Black Arrows)
   2. And generating a momentum (blue semi-circle).

The design problem, is that the "Front Support", is only attached to the Chrono Rail, through a single bolt, and the Momentum (Blue) is not correctly distributed to the "Rear Support" (if any...).
Contrary to the Thule support, where the rail is a single part, that grabs the front and rear wheel, distributing the forces much better, the Chrono almost separates the forces, but the momentum is handle by the front support.
[A bit like a gymnastic on the bars, it has to grab the bar firmly to not rotate in front or back - see picture bellow]

But a continous support rail, wounldn't be possible on the Menabo.
What should have had is a 2 "rail/tube" system, as THULE Freeride 532. (to check modification - see last picture)
This two rails would be a tube, bent has per the front part, and continue to the back, matching a sturdy and capable of load transfer - has the last picture bellow in RED.

Fortunately the support broke at 100m from my house, at 5km/h (was passing a speed bump).
Due to the weight and position on the car, never drove beyond 100km/h, always passed speedbumps slower than I normally. Basically, driving with the ebike is SLOW!
Also, I removed the battery, to make it easier to place and remove the bike, but also to make life easier to the support.

If no warranty, nor money back is given to me, I'll take some of the parts, to make my sturdy support! Something that initially I thought about doing..........

Personally I fill gutless, but very fortunate to all this!

After 3x of use, this has happen:

 

[Whitby Chris]

Had/Have one.


My word: I wouldn't buy, it has a Big Design Flaw!

Let me explain.

On picture one, you can see the support and then:

1. The red semi-circle is the front wheel, being the red arrow "W", the weight of the front Axle.
2. This weight is then transfer to the Menabo Chrono:
   1. Acting as a Force (Black Arrows)
   2. And generating a momentum (blue semi-circle).

The design problem, is that the "Front Support", is only attached to the Chrono Rail, through a single bolt, and the Momentum (Blue) is not correctly distributed to the "Rear Support" (if any...).
Contrary to the Thule support, where the rail is a single part, that grabs the front and rear wheel, distributing the forces much better, the Chrono almost separates the forces, but the momentum is handle by the front support.
[A bit like a gymnastic on the bars, it has to grab the bar firmly to not rotate in front or back - see picture bellow]

But a continous support rail, wounldn't be possible on the Menabo.
What should have had is a 2 "rail/tube" system, as THULE Freeride 532. (to check modification - see last picture)
This two rails would be a tube, bent has per the front part, and continue to the back, matching a sturdy and capable of load transfer - has the last picture bellow in RED.

Fortunately the support broke at 100m from my house, at 5km/h (was passing a speed bump).
Due to the weight and position on the car, never drove beyond 100km/h, always passed speedbumps slower than I normally. Basically, driving with the ebike is SLOW!
Also, I removed the battery, to make it easier to place and remove the bike, but also to make life easier to the support.

If no warranty, nor money back is given to me, I'll take some of the parts, to make my sturdy support! Something that initially I thought about doing..........

Personally I fill gutless, but very fortunate to all this!




View attachment 119954


After 3x of use, this has happen:
View attachment 119952 View attachment 119955 View attachment 119959

Thanks for that so the best one to get is the fuel freeride? Is there any particular model ?

 

[Mario Antony]

Roof rack, I would like to check:
Inno (weight limit = 23kg)
Yakima frontloader (weight limit = 18kg)
Thule Upride (weight limit = 20kg)
[All of these, are out of stock where I live...]
Unfortenatly with UK out of UE, buying stuff over there has became real expensive (paying taxes and customs... so online, no thanks!)

Yes the weight limit are under the usual 25kg, but wouldn't mind (ab)using either...
Yes, ebike weight would be +30% to 9% more than rack limit, but it should be widthin safety margins if you drive it carefully.
Presently and after this broken rack, I prefer to thrust in those brands, even if it's limits are bellow what the ebike (with battery, weights!)

On long trips (where I would hit +100km/h ~ 120km/h) I would secure/place some straps around the grips and some other straps on the saddle. All straps attatched to the roof rack bars, not the bike rack.

 

[unclezz]

I had thule upride. Well done roof rack but I would not put an e-bike there without securing it with straps to handlebars. The horizontal oscillations of the ebike is extremely heavy on the system. Let alone the creaking noise while driving is just scaring.

There was a previous 3ad on this topic where somebody showed all parts needed to arrange a proper securing of the bike.

Before going for towbar system I also bought the eyelets to secure the straps. But after first attempt to put the ebike on the roof I decided that this is a no-go for me. I have not enough strength after a day of riding to take more than 20kg and try to put them on roof. The risk of damaging car and bike is too high.

So I recommend to also consider this aspect

 

[Whitby Chris]

After research the top ride looks like a good option from thule, the battery and front wheel will be off while I travel to reduce the weight. Will look at the threads for securing the bars thanks all

 

[Mario Antony]

I had thule upride. Well done roof rack but I would not put an e-bike there without securing it with straps to handlebars. The horizontal oscillations of the ebike is extremely heavy on the system. Let alone the creaking noise while driving is just scaring.

There was a previous 3ad on this topic where somebody showed all parts needed to arrange a proper securing of the bike.

Before going for towbar system I also bought the eyelets to secure the straps. But after first attempt to put the ebike on the roof I decided that this is a no-go for me. I have not enough strength after a day of riding to take more than 20kg and try to put them on roof. The risk of damaging car and bike is too high.

So I recommend to also consider this aspect

You said it all:

"I had thule upride. Well done roof rack but I would not put an e-bike there without securing it with straps to handlebars. "

The problem with hitch ball racks, is if you have multiple cars, you're limited where you can go/which car you take. (which hitch ball is around 400€!)
Personally, I had hitch mount racks, and it's the best, hands down: easier to load, easy to install&remove, everything is top, until you get hit by someone from behind, and insurance companies start to escape from a claim!!

Been there, done that.... no thanks!

I have racks for all my cars. Moving bike racks is easy. Personally lifting a 25kg ebike after a 40km/over 1500m is no problem! so... personally I prefer to have my Bikes & Ebikes on top!
So my take is simple:

If you can handle it, choose the best solution for you (Hitch or Roof Rack)!

ME: ROOF RACK!


PS: If I had a big garage, I would have a motorcycle trailler ready to take it to the trails, but it's not praticle in any way, and c'mon, an ebike is 25kg against 16kg. It's not 9 kilos that will make a HUGE difference. It's safer to drive slower, than having less weight up there.

Ps2: the cinetic energy driving a 25kg ebike on a rooftop @100km/h is ±8% more than driving a 16kg on a rooftop @120km/h!
If you drive above your normal speed, I wouldn't be afraid in not respecting the weight limit on a QUALITY bike rack!

 

[Mario Antony]

Fortunately the store where I’ve bought (FUTURALINE – Portugal - Futuraline - Outdoor e Aventura - Roof Racks - Cargo Roof Boxes - Barra Automovel - Atera Rack - Porta Bicicletas BTT - Montblanc - Kamei Box - Caixa Mala Bagageira - Suportes Bicicleta - Barras Tejadilho - Atera - Whispbar - Malas Bagageiras) has a well-earned reputation, and has resolved my problem has well will extend to all the supports they’ve sold.

Menabo, has changed the front support plate, and presently the rail is fixed with 2 bolts and not 1 – has it had mine.

Futuraline (the Portuguese Store) will extend this upgrade to all their customers, at their expense and willing – KUDOS for this postion! It’s getting rare to see such professional move.



Personally I’ll wait what to buy next… but will probably choose something Thule or Yakima à Yakima being on the short size, for the Long & Low recent geometries!

Thule can accommodate up to 1300mm wheel base, Yakima limit is around 1250.



I’ll try a Frontloader to check… and until I buy a new support!



Just a side note:

Independently of weight limit, I’ll continue to secure the bike with extra straps, and drive slower than I normally do without bikes. This is because the Kinetic Energy is equal to 0.5MV^2, being M the mass in Kg, and V2, the speed square (V.V) in m/s. So has you can see, the weight change linearly the Kinetic Energy, but speed increases the Kinetic Energy square… so drive slower, and you and your bike will be safer, even if the weight limit of the support is lower than the actual weight!

At slower speeds, you’ll be within Safety Margins



Cheers!

 

[weihlac]

Putting an ebike on the roof: it is only a matter of when, not if, you will drop the 20+kg bike on the roof and then to the pavement causing untold damage to the vehicle roof and the bike.

Or even worse, the bike comes off the roof and goes through the windscreen of the car behind you and kills several people.

But your choice. Good luck-you will need it. Roof racks are not designed for the forces produced by 20+ kg bikes cornering at speed.

 

[Mario Antony]

Personally, I don't find any harder putting my ebike without battery on the roof, than my Freeride bike (tiping the scale @17.5kg).

Being 6', capable of overhead press +50kg, helps a lot.
That and the cars being low(no SUVs or MVPs)

Have rear carrier, but presently no car with hitch, so I need a support that I can move easily between cars. Hitch kits are over 400€/car, and the roof racks are already bought!

Also, over here, in this European corner close to Africa, anything that goes beyond the car width, is a 120€ to 600€ fine! (And presently any MTB/eMTB is widther than any car).
A very stupid rule/law if you ask me

 

[Whitby Chris]

Putting an ebike on the roof: it is only a matter of when, not if, you will drop the 20+kg bike on the roof and then to the pavement causing untold damage to the vehicle roof and the bike.

Or even worse, the bike comes off the roof and goes through the windscreen of the car behind you and kills several people.

But your choice. Good luck-you will need it. Roof racks are not designed for the forces produced by 20+ kg bikes cornering at speed.

Well after all the debate I have decided to not put the bike on my roof, when alone its going in the back of the car and when with the family as now 3 bikes I will just use the Thule 3 bike rack for the towbar, easier and safer option.

Glad I never rushed into the roof option

 

[pearlex]

I just bought the Menabo Chrono when I read this so now am a bit worried but as I see now they changed it and the part which was cracked is connected with two screws and different metal part now. Lets hope the best