Maintenance

[Stuart569]

Overdue I think ?

 

[R120]

Stick some motofoam in there

 

[Zimmerframe]

Don't let @Doomanic see that, he's on kato ? Keto ? Kate ? some food or lady which isn't healthy for you. That's going to look scrummy, he'll nibble his way through your plastic motor cover for a snack.

 

[Stuart569]

I'm having a nightmare. Unplugged everything to give it all a clean out. Now the fucking thing won't turn on. All connections are as they came out and I've continuity tested the di2 cable that goes to the display which is fine. I guess it's going for a trip to my local Shimano service centre when this COVID situation passes.

 

[R120]

Stick air hair dryer on it to remove any residual moisture

 

[Gary]

Overdue I think ?

E Sommet?

Most of the shite is probably coming in throughfrom the rear/above your motor and through the areaI've highlighted below

it enters through the top where the wiring nest sits and the shock/swing arms is positioned.
Washing the bike pushed it down and into the rear gap of the motor (poor planning by both Shimano and Vitus)
As R120 says motofoam that area, both from the position you can see shown in the pic and from above. I also made a small shield/guard to stop shite getting in there in the first place.

once you've done that and cleaned/dried out all your connectors thoroughly and sloved the wiring issues. replace the connection cover and silicone the edges (sparingly) and electrical tape the edge all the way round.
My first Esommet (ridden in shite daily and washed after every ride) connection bay would fill with shite every few weeks until I figured out why.

 

[Stuart569]

E Sommet?

Most of the shite is probably coming in throughfrom the rear/above your motor and through the areaI've highlighted below
View attachment 27844

it enters through the top where the wiring nest sits and the shock/swing arms is positioned.
Washing the bike pushed it down and into the rear gap of the motor (poor planning by both Shimano and Vitus)
As R120 says motofoam that area, both from the position you can see shown in the pic and from above. I also made a small shield/guard to stop shite getting in there in the first place.

once you've done that and cleaned/dried out all your connectors thoroughly and sloved the wiring issues. replace the connection cover and silicone the edges (sparingly) and electrical tape the edge all the way round.
My first Esommet (ridden in shite daily and washed after every ride) connection bay would fill with shite every few weeks until I figured out why.

Thanks Gary I will definately be doing this once I resolve the current issue. Wish I had never touched it I only did it as I was bored because of this lock down. Hopefully the EP8 is a properly encapsulated jobby!

 

[Stuart569]

Stick air hair dryer on it to remove any residual moisture

I did that already. I used IPA to clean it all too so water cannot be the issue. I'm Electrical to trade so not stupid in that respect which makes this a bit embarrassing ?

 

[Spiff]

Check that the Display and Speed sensor DI2 cables are in the same position as before and they have not been swapped

 

[Stuart569]

Y

Check that the Display and Speed sensor DI2 cables are in the same position as before and they have not been swapped

Yeah I've done that ?

 

[Stuart569]

Update! Just back from being away working for the last couple weeks and got a chance to have another look. One of the data pins on the plug on the motor (for power and data to battery) had buckled slightly and pushed back in to the plug. Thankfully I managed to pull it back out and straighten it out and away she went.the plug and socket are keyed so not sure how it's happend to be honest. I'll definately be extra careful in the future!

On another note my RH crank arm fell of today with no warning. Managed to clean the splines up and refit so no disaster. I did check the pinch bolts before I set off so not sure how it happend. I know I read of others having this issue so will search the forum for tips on preventing this happening again.

 

[R120]

Swap out the crappy plastic crank retaininers for some metal ones, you can pick some up on eBay for not much, and whilst not designed to keep the crank on, they do make it far more likely to stay on if the pinch bolts come loose

 

[RickBullotta]

Update! Just back from being away working for the last couple weeks and got a chance to have another look. One of the data pins on the plug on the motor (for power and data to battery) had buckled slightly and pushed back in to the plug. Thankfully I managed to pull it back out and straighten it out and away she went.the plug and socket are keyed so not sure how it's happend to be honest. I'll definately be extra careful in the future!

On another note my RH crank arm fell of today with no warning. Managed to clean the splines up and refit so no disaster. I did check the pinch bolts before I set off so not sure how it happend. I know I read of others having this issue so will search the forum for tips on preventing this happening again.

Do you have the safety plate installed? Make sure you do. And torque to spec (and make sure both pinch bolts are evenly torqued). Common issue is people tighten one, then the other, not realizing that the first one is now likely loosened up.

 

[Gary]

Common issue is people tighten one, then the other, not realizing that the first one is now likely loosened up.

That's not actually the issue.
They can still "walk" off the spline with correct torque on the pinch bolts.
This is because they do not load against the bearing cover in the way a HTII crank arm was actually designed to so when they flex they move more.

One of the reasons the Alu crank cap bolts help is because the arm is actually loaded by the metal lip instead of a stupid plastic lip that will flex and then strip it's stupid plastic threads.

 

[Stuart569]

As I said I checked the pinch bolts before that ride. Aluminium caps are on their way!

 

[Gary]

As I said I checked the pinch bolts before that ride. Aluminium caps are on their way!

which ones did you order, I've been after a set that use an 8 or 6mm allen key instead of the 10mm all the chinese ones seem to. Currently I carry a separate short 8mm to 10mm stepped hex bit along with my multi tool, but would rather not have to.

 

[Stuart569]

which ones did you order, I've been after a set that use an 8 or 6mm allen key instead of the 10mm all the chinese ones seem to. Currently I carry a separate short 8mm to 10mm stepped hex bit along with my multi tool, but would rather not have to.

Looks like 10mm allen I didn't even consider that. Doh!

 

[Spiff]

Looks like 10mm allen I didn't even consider that. Doh!

This the only one I've been able to find that uses 5mm Allen, but in USA and shipping to Europe is $15.78. But they should available in other stores, it is a matter of spending some time digging in google
Far and Near M20 Crank Bolt

Update: Also available in eBay UK:
Far Near M15 & M20 shimano hollowtech 2 crank bolt end cap preload adjuster | eBay

Manufacturer in Taiwan:
Crank Bolts

 

[Stuart569]

This the only one I've been able to find that uses 5mm Allen, but in USA and shipping to Europe is $15.78. But they should available in other stores, it is a matter of spending some time digging in google
Far and Near M20 Crank Bolt

Update: Also available in eBay UK:
Far Near M15 & M20 shimano hollowtech 2 crank bolt end cap preload adjuster | eBay

Manufacturer in Taiwan:
Crank Bolts

Good man thanks!