Levo Gen 3 Magura mt7 upgrade

[Tyjay]

Anyone upgraded changed to Magura mt7 brakes

What’s your thoughts on them
And was it easy to remove and put a new rear brake cable in?

Thanks

 

[Jbone]

Yes, I put these on my old Trek Rail, upgrade from SRAM Codes and I absolutely loved the Maguras. So much power, good modulation. The only negative is they can be tricky to bleed well, but once set it is very worth it.
I am about to do the same on my current Turbo Levo, again upgrading from SRAM Codes.
It depends on the routing of your rear brake line through your bike, there are lots of vids on YouTube if you do a search though.
Buy the MT7s though, you will love them!

 

[Tyjay]

Yes, I put these on my old Trek Rail, upgrade from SRAM Codes and I absolutely loved the Maguras. So much power, good modulation. The only negative is they can be tricky to bleed well, but once set it is very worth it.
I am about to do the same on my current Turbo Levo, again upgrading from SRAM Codes.
It depends on the routing of your rear brake line through your bike, there are lots of vids on YouTube if you do a search though.
Buy the MT7s though, you will love them!

Thanks mate just waiting for them to come into stock
Was £225 for front and back

 

[Stihldog]

Loosen all the bulkhead and brake hose clamping points. Use a barbed connector (male/male) to help feed the new hose through the frame.(push/pull method).

After the initial bleed, break-in the new brake pads, then take the bike for a short bumpy ride (5-10kms). When you return, bleed the brakes again. Trapped air bubbles will rise to the master cylinder (lever). A mini-bleed may be necessary at this time. (Install bleed cup and some royal-blood). Pump the levers until all the remaining air bubbles escape.

Adjust the angle of the levers but allow them to pivot in the event of a crash. (Lightly torqued). Carry a T-25 wrench with you for a few rides …just in case.

I like my MT7’s.

 

[RickBullotta]

A couple more suggestions for getting the most out of MT7's:

- Don't use matchmaker clamps - they'll greatly limit your ergonomics/fit options
- Magura makes multiple different types of levers that can be retrofitted to your master cylinders. Don't be afraid to experiment (1 finger vs 2 finger, different shapes and adjustments, etc)
- Centering the caliper can also be tricky, but is usually best done by eyeball (vs the loosen/squeeze/tighten technique)

 

[VWsurfbum]

A couple more suggestions for getting the most out of MT7's:

- Don't use matchmaker clamps - they'll greatly limit your ergonomics/fit options
- Magura makes multiple different types of levers that can be retrofitted to your master cylinders. Don't be afraid to experiment (1 finger vs 2 finger, different shapes and adjustments, etc)
- Centering the caliper can also be tricky, but is usually best done by eyeball (vs the loosen/squeeze/tighten technique)

use the yellow blocks that come with them that have the disc-centralising forks on one edge.

 

[RickBullotta]

use the yellow blocks that come with them that have the disc-centralising forks on one edge.

I use two offset sparkplug gap tools - similar idea

 

[Tyjay]

Thanks for the tips chaps
will do once I get some sorted and maybe back for some more info

 

[Koban]

I use the Shigura (Magura calipers, Shimano levers) setup on my bikes (four bikes). Best of both worlds ;-)

Used Magura MT7 Raceline with hose and the Shimano XTR M9120 levers (with Shimano barb & olive and Shimano mineral oil)

With some e MTB's you have to lose the motor so you can route the hose. On my Spectral ON and Torque ON there was an heat shield over the hose. That was under the motor. And on the Spectral there was also a clamp that I hat to loosen first. It can differ per brand how easy it is to guide a brake hose through the frame.

 

[Pickle1970]

I found them awesome brakes, until the point they needed bleeding. After that they were rubbish, no matter what I did they ended up pulling to the bar.
Ditched em for Saints and never looked back

 

[Frankie_r]

I do NOT recommend MT7, for some reasons:
- impossible pads alignment
- noisy rotors (at least the Magura Storm)
- pistons became sticky in a very short time and I couldn’t find a solution
- bleeding is very, very hard
- lever feel is on the spongy side compared to other systems (i.e. Shimano)

Long story short: I switched from MT7 to Hayes Dominion and I find them superior in every single aspect, including power (maybe only the modulation is a bit better on the MT7).

 

[SwampNut]

They were stock on my main bike, and I love them. I agree they are noisy, which is great. It’s a warning for hikers with headphones in the middle of the trail. I disagree with all the negatives above. Not my experience at all.

 

[RebornRider]

So many people guilty of "pilot error" blame the product. I agree with Swampnut except for the noisy part. I switched to MT7s with 220 rotors about 3 years ago because my factory Codes could not deal with the heat of my descents on a trail that I share with hikers along with their kids and unleashed dogs. Lots of slowing from 25 (mph) to 5 on steep downhills to safely pass people and pets.

My experience after putting 1000s of miles on Magura brakes:

- No trouble with pad alignment. It takes about 60 seconds to get front and rear rub-free.
- I get some "thunking" from the front ONLY when I have to drag the brake HARD for several seconds. Never heard them squeal or howl like my Codes did.
- I had to free up my Code pistons every 2 weeks or thereabouts. I do the MT7s when I change pads, once or twice a year. The pistons have never been stuck.
- I've only had to bleed the Maguras twice in the 3 years I've had them. Once at initial installation and once when I replaced a damaged hose (stick in the rear wheel!). It was easy. Since I know how o-rings work, I did not strip the threads.
- My front and rear levers are very solid, with a clear bite point. Maybe "spongy" means that they grip harder when you pull the lever harder? I call that modulation, and I think that is a good thing. I do not like toggle switch brakes.

 

[whwv]

Anyone upgraded changed to Magura mt7 brakes

What’s your thoughts on them
And was it easy to remove and put a new rear brake cable in?

Thanks

I was looking to upgrade from the stock Code RSC and as a last chance attempt I put on 220 Magura rotors. Helped significantly, but I still wanted a bit more. Went to MTX gold pads and that did the trick. Saved me the cost and effort of swapping.

When it came time to replace the Magura rotors I actually went back to SRAM and their thicker rotors which work almost just as good (and harder to bend since they are single piece but worse with heat dissipation).

 

[Koban]

Bleeding is just as easy as with Shimano brakes. I use The Park Tool bleed kit. I have one bike with Magura MT8 carbon lever (dirt jumper). Bleed on the lever with the bleed cup with an adapter. This works for me easier than with a syringe on both sides.

Other 3 bikes have Shimano M9120 levers with MT7 Raceline calipers. Also easy to bleed. I can only say best of two worlds ;-)

 

[RustyIron]

Anyone upgraded changed to Magura mt7 brakes

What’s your thoughts on them
And was it easy to remove and put a new rear brake cable in?

I ran Mt7's for 3538 miles before I sold the bike last week. They were no more difficult to install as any other brakes. Bleeding isn't much different than any other brake. They all have their subtle differences, but there's nothing esoteric about it.

A noteworthy characteristic of the MT7 calipers is how nicely the pistons move within the o-ring. The pistons are easy to push back, and they extend predictably. They move freely enough so they tend to stay evenly extended. Uneven extension isn't the problem that it can be with other manufacturers. Centering the caliper around the rotor is not the tedious nightmare that it can be with other brakes. Power is good, and modulation is good.

The one thing that I didn't like about the MT7's was the sound. It wasn't loud, others probably couldn't hear it unless they were right up on me. The sound was a higher pitch than noises made by other brakes, and it occurred only at certain speeds under moderate braking force. I could get different results with different rotors and pads, but the brakes were never as quiet as I wanted.

I found the MT7's to be far better than anything ever produced by Avid/SRAM. Hayes Dominion A4's might be a little more powerful with better lever feel, but they're not as easy to work on as the Maguras.

 

[E-MAD MALC]

I use the Shigura (Magura calipers, Shimano levers) setup on my bikes (four bikes). Best of both worlds ;-)

Used Magura MT7 Raceline with hose and the Shimano XTR M9120 levers (with Shimano barb & olive and Shimano mineral oil)

With some e MTB's you have to lose the motor so you can route the hose. On my Spectral ON and Torque ON there was an heat shield over the hose. That was under the motor. And on the Spectral there was also a clamp that I hat to loosen first. It can differ per brand how easy it is to guide a brake hose through the frame.

View attachment 135898 View attachment 135899

I went with the XT levers love the brakes

 

[RickBullotta]

They were stock on my main bike, and I love them. I agree they are noisy, which is great. It’s a warning for hikers with headphones in the middle of the trail. I disagree with all the negatives above. Not my experience at all.

Regarding the noise, the pad material makes a big difference. I run the 8S/greens which don't squeal much at all.

 

[SwampNut]

Regarding the noise, the pad material makes a big difference. I run the 8S/greens which don't squeal much at all.

Totally agreed, I upgrade all my bikes to the metallics which perform much better and squeal to warn hikers, LOL.

 

[p3eps]

use the yellow blocks that come with them that have the disc-centralising forks on one edge.

I spent ages trying to do it by eye, and then with the yellow blocks... but neither could get them exactly right, and I always had a little scuff noise.

One day an advert came up on social media (can't remember if it was FB or Insta - probably targeted and listening to me complaining ) for a thing called "Cycle Pal". It was basically a little piece of thin folded over metal that you placed over your rotor, and then put inside the caliper when tightening the caliper bolts. It was about £15, and I thought "why not".
It worked a treat - fit this, hold the brake lever, then tighten the caliper bolts with it inside. Once the bolts are tight, roll the wheel forward half a turn and remove the 'cycle pal". No rub / squeak again.

I felt a bit foolish when I went back and looked at the comments on their product later, and found I could get exactly the same 'non branded' product for about £3 on ebay... so I bought another for my backpack (on trail tools).
Others have said sticking a credit card on either side of the rotor does the same thing.

Pardon our interruption...

A couple more suggestions for getting the most out of MT7's:

- Don't use matchmaker clamps - they'll greatly limit your ergonomics/fit options
- Magura makes multiple different types of levers that can be retrofitted to your master cylinders. Don't be afraid to experiment (1 finger vs 2 finger, different shapes and adjustments, etc)
- Centering the caliper can also be tricky, but is usually best done by eyeball (vs the loosen/squeeze/tighten technique)

I use the matchmaker on my dropper - the AXS 'shifter' has such a big button, that it works fine where the matchmaker puts it... but they were't ideal for my old AXS rocker. I've just ordered a BikeYoke adapter which is supposed to pair up with the Magura matchmaker for holding the POD, so will see how that works out when it arrives from Germany.
My preferred Magura lever was the carbon one. Simple to change too...

I do NOT recommend MT7, for some reasons:

- bleeding is very, very hard

It took me a few shots of bleeding to get them right. They felt great in the workstand, and then went soft on the trail. The bumpy terrain must've helped all the bubbles come loose! On my previous bike, they were rock solid for over 3 years and never needed touched again. I've had them on my current bike for about 10 months now, and haven't needed to bleed them again since the first week or 2.

Just make sure you take the caliper off to bleed it - so you can have the caliper higher than the lever... this may involve having your bike in the workstand in a crazy position (front wheel on the ground and rear pointing right up!!) and gently tap the caliper lots to loosen the bubbles.

 

[E-MAD MALC]

I bought one of these to bleed my car brakes I also use it to bleed the bike brakes

 

[E-MAD MALC]

Something else I've seen is the little bleed screws it titanium
Might be better than the plastic one's

 

[RickBullotta]

Something else I've seen is the little bleed screws it titanium
Might be better than the plastic one's

I think the bleed screws are plastic by design, so that you don't accidentally strip the threads in a Carbotecture master cylinder/lever.

 

[Stihldog]

If I accidentally over tightened the bleed screw on my MT7’s, I would rather the plastic bleed screw threads fail or strip before the female port in the master cylinder. A metal bleed screw may not be necessary on MT7’s master cylinders. They look nice though .

 

[Shjay]

I do NOT recommend MT7, for some reasons:
- impossible pads alignment
- noisy rotors (at least the Magura Storm)
- pistons became sticky in a very short time and I couldn’t find a solution
- bleeding is very, very hard
- lever feel is on the spongy side compared to other systems (i.e. Shimano)

Long story short: I switched from MT7 to Hayes Dominion and I find them superior in every single aspect, including power (maybe only the modulation is a bit better on the MT7).

MT5s are easier to setup as the calipers/Pads inside sit further apart, I have MT5s & so happy with them that I haven’t ever had the need to try MT7s

 

[Frankie_r]

Just make sure you take the caliper off to bleed it - so you can have the caliper higher than the lever... this may involve having your bike in the workstand in a crazy position (front wheel on the ground and rear pointing right up!!) and gently tap the caliper lots to loosen the bubbles.

That’s exactly what I meant with “hard bleeding”

The more things you have to do (i.e. remove the caliper, change the bike position in the stand, hit the cable, etc.) the more I consider the bleeding complicated. I think that MT7 are designed in a way that makes the complete elimination of air from the system harder than other brakes.

 

[Stihldog]

That’s exactly what I meant with “hard bleeding”

The more things you have to do (i.e. remove the caliper, change the bike position in the stand, hit the cable, etc.) the more I consider the bleeding complicated. I think that MT7 are designed in a way that makes the complete elimination of air from the system harder than other brakes.

After the install and initial bleed of the MT7’s , I find that a short bumpy ride is necessary to free up any trapped air bubbles. After this, a lever/mini bleed may be necessary. Some bubbles will rise into the bleed cup when you pump the lever.

Over time some water will collect in the calliper (2years) and a full bleed will be necessary again. With DOT fluid water will collect in the master cylinder.

Air will seep into the system over time through hoses, joints, pistons. Some brake systems are more prone to this …it could be good or bad.

I only use mineral oil brake system. Magura, Shimano, Sram (DB8), and Tektro, but I use the right colour mineral oil so I don’t void the warranty.

There’s lots of info out there on the pros and cons of mineral oil vs DOT fluid. I prefer mineral oil.

 

[SwampNut]

I find that a short bumpy ride is necessary to free up any trapped air bubbles.

This is interesting, haven't had this issue on the bicycle, but this JUST happened to me this weekend on my Honda XR650R with a new master cylinder.

 

[Stihldog]

This is interesting, haven't had this issue on the bicycle, but this JUST happened to me this weekend on my Honda XR650R with a new master cylinder.

The MT7 calliper seems to be susceptible to trapped air after a bleed. Off-gassing generated by heat may also cause bubbles to accumulate in the calliper. Regardless, air and/or water in the hydraulic braking system can’t be good.

When my brake levers start to feel “spongy”, or collapse towards the bar, then it’s time to do a master cylinder bleed, a full bleed, or replace the fluid (oil) with new stuff.

The MT7’s are a great brake system but they seem to need a bit more attention.

 

[RickBullotta]

The MT7 calliper seems to be susceptible to trapped air after a bleed. Off-gassing generated by heat may also cause bubbles to accumulate in the calliper. Regardless, air and/or water in the hydraulic braking system can’t be good.

When my brake levers start to feel “spongy”, or collapse towards the bar, then it’s time to do a master cylinder bleed, a full bleed, or replace the fluid (oil) with new stuff.

The MT7’s are a great brake system but they seem to need a bit more attention.

Another thing that helps is to store your bike vertically overnight or for a day or two to let the air work its way from the caliper to the lever. Sometimes helps.