Levo Gen 3 Magura MT7 or Shimano XT 4 pots?

[Renton]

Looking to replace the brakes on my Levo and not sure which way to go.

Ive had Shimano XT 4 pots on my last 5 bikes and really like them. However due to pricing the Magura MT7 is now almost the same price.

I used to have MT5 on my Cotic hardtail and they were great, however the MT7 are meant to be even better.

I will initially be running the Sram discs my bike came with. Would this be a problem on either brake?

Which way would you go??

 

[Bones]

I am pretty sure that the only difference between the 5s and 7s are the pads. They use the same caliper. Having two emtbs with both makes of brakes then the best setup is xt levers and Magura calipers. I had one of the cheap Magura levers strip the mounting screws and started leaking so went down the shigura route and the setup is brilliant

 

[cdavies102]

I have a bike with MT5 and another with XTR. The XTR is just unbeatable in my opinion

 

[Jackware]

I am pretty sure that the only difference between the 5s and 7s are the pads. They use the same caliper.

For info the Magura site says;

FAQ - ARE THE MT5 AND MT7 BRAKE CALIPERS REALLY DIFFERENT? HOW ARE THEY DIFFERENT?
The difference between the MT5 and the MT7 lies in the detail. As well as a different brake transmission ratio, the details of the brake calipers differ.
Upon close inspection the MT5 has a noticeably larger airspace between the rotor and the brake pads. The reason for this is a greater piston retraction space as a result of different construction on the inside of the caliper. Overall this means that the MT5 is easier to set up without grinding and has a bite point that feels less direct than the MT7.
With a higher transmission ratio, the MT7 offers overall more braking power and a more direct braking sensation. The bite point however feels slightly softer that the MT5.
Note: The described differences also apply to the MT Trail Sport (using the MT5 brake caliper on the front wheel and MT5 brake lever) and the MT Trail SL (using the MT7 brake caliper on the front wheel and the MT7 break lever).

Important: We recommend not to switch parts of the MT5 and MT7 because they have been individually adapted to each other. Due to the individual differences of both models we do not recommend nor approve combinations of the two.

 

[Shjay]

MT5s are great but need the Magura rotors or any other 2mm thick rotors for best performance, I am running mine with Loic Bruni levers as better shape

 

[VWsurfbum]

The leavers between the 5 and 7 are night and day different in the feel.
Discs, well i have both Magura and Shimano, Shimano are smoother but the thicker Magura ones are better

 

[Bones]

I stand corrected . The shigura setup is still a good option though.

 

[whwv]

I kept the SRAM Code RSC brakes, but put on Magura 220mm rotors (front and back). They are thicker and the bigger diameter did the trick. Happy with the brakes now and didn't have to spend much.

 

[RebornRider]

I've posted several times about being 100% satisfied with my Magura MT7/220mm rotor setup. I understand many riders won't need that much breaking power and heat dissipation, but if you need it, you REALLY need it. Recently I switched to HC3 levers so I could adjust the reach and leverage ratio to my liking.

I only needed to bleed the system once when I installed the brakes 2 years ago, and I thought it was very easy to do. I don't think any air has gotten into the system because both levers are still quite firm. I follow tightening torque specs, so I didn't strip any of the screws.

 

[Mr Scooter]

100 percent Magura MT7. But make sure you use the MRD-P rotors. I personally prefer the performance pad over the race. It might not last as long but I prefer the brake feel... but I dont see a lot of wet rides...mainly dust issues rather than moisture and grit

 

[RebornRider]

100 percent Magura MT7. But make sure you use the MRD-P rotors. I personally prefer the performance pad over the race. It might not last as long but I prefer the brake feel... but I dont see a lot of wet rides...mainly dust issues rather than moisture and grit

Agree with MRD-P rotors. Some here have complained about clicking noises, but mine have never done that. I have only run the performance pads. Can you say what is different with the race pads? More initial bite?

 

[Singletrackmind]

100 percent Magura MT7. But make sure you use the MRD-P rotors. I personally prefer the performance pad over the race. It might not last as long but I prefer the brake feel... but I dont see a lot of wet rides...mainly dust issues rather than moisture and grit

 

[rydeezie]

I have Shiguras. Way better than maguras. Much stronger than the xtr’s on my other ebike and dh bike.

imagine stronger responsive xtr’s with modulation, that’s what you get with shiguras. Easier to bleed than maguras and the levers are not plastic

 

[Singletrackmind]

Lots of great inputs and thought I would add my 2 cents worth. I run a Shigura set-up on both my emtbs (Shimano Saint levers and Magura MT7 calipers with the 220 MDR-P rotors). Magura brake pads are actually made by Galfer and only differenceis the colors they arw painted. On my Yeti-160E I'm using the Performance pads aka organic (green color for the Magura branded) on both front and rear rotors. On my YT Decoy I'm running the Performance pads up front and the semi-metalic (black color on Magura branded) on the rears. IMHO this is the best performing brake set-up I've had the pleasure of riding. Had mzny different Shimano brakes over the years and detest Sram brakes on mtbs.

 

[squeegee]

Running Sram rotors at first and Maguras later could cause noises issues just due to the difference in braking surfaces. If you run Sram rotors for a while, be sure to either sand down the pads or replace the pads when switching to Magura rotors in case there are groves or wear from Sram rotors that don't match up to Magura rotor. That said even though Sram rotors are thinner they should work after the pistons adjust to the depth needed.

I like either brake but prefer Magura MT7 for overall feel. For ease of set up and maintainence, definately Shimano has Magura beat. Maguras take a lot more effort to get set up often requiring several bleeds before you get a proper feel at the lever. Caliper alignment can be more difficult than other brakes. Keep Maguras clean because if you let them get super dirty they can start making lots of annoying sounds.

 

[jej737]

2022 gen 3 Levo that came with MT7 pro. After 2-3 rides developed a squeal that I couldn’t get rid of. Replaced rotors and pads, MRD-p 220 front/203 rear and sport pads like recommended and also the original pads. Bedded in per magura. Again after 5-6 ride I have more squeal that will not go away. I wash it the same as my stumpy that has no issues. Reached out to magura and the sent me new pads, sport and performance. Anybody else have issues with magura squeal and help with resolving?

 

[squeegee]

Have had similar issues, try criss-crossing the pads in each caliper, left front to right rear position, right front to left rear etc. This ususually works for me for a good period of time. Also have found koolstop organic pads to be better both for limiting noise with no discernable difference in braking power. Also sanding down the pads and thouroughly cleaning the rotors helps. Scrub the calipers when you clean the bike.

Magura must go nuts with all the people who call them about this.

 

[jej737]

Have had similar issues, try criss-crossing the pads in each caliper, left front to right rear position, right front to left rear etc. This ususually works for me for a good period of time. Also have found koolstop organic pads to be better both for limiting noise with no discernable difference in braking power. Also sanding down the pads and thouroughly cleaning the rotors helps. Scrub the calipers when you clean the bike.

Magura must go nuts with all the people who call them about this.

I’ve sanded and cleaned many times, never lasts for a full ride. I’ll try the pad swap otherwise it’s so annoying I may look for a change. Stopping power is awesome and aesthetically I love the look but the noise is frustrating and annoying on group rides.

 

[squeegee]

I feel your pain, some people apparently have no problems with them. I ran them on another bike for over a year with almost no issues, then swapped them to a new bike and the noises started. Eventually I replaced the Magura pads on that bike with koolstop organic and don't have problems now. Running MDR-P rotors. I run mine with HC3 levers and if it wasn't for how awesome they are for adjustments I would probably switch to Shimano. Also have on Gen3 Levo so far no issues with Magura pads but I don't expect that to last. Koolstops are cheap and like I said, I can't discern any difference in braking power.
I've never tried the "Shigura" route but a lot of people swear by that set up, Shimano masters with Magura calipers.

 

[leftside]

I kept the SRAM Code RSC brakes, but put on Magura 220mm rotors (front and back). They are thicker and the bigger diameter did the trick. Happy with the brakes now and didn't have to spend much.

What adapter did you use to go from the 200m rotors to these 220mm rotors? My wife has just received a YT Decoy with the SRAM R brakes, and they don't compare to Saint/Zee/XT I've used in the past. Others have also said these Magura rotors will improve things.

 

[Mr Scooter]

2022 gen 3 Levo that came with MT7 pro. After 2-3 rides developed a squeal that I couldn’t get rid of. Replaced rotors and pads, MRD-p 220 front/203 rear and sport pads like recommended and also the original pads. Bedded in per magura. Again after 5-6 ride I have more squeal that will not go away. I wash it the same as my stumpy that has no issues. Reached out to magura and the sent me new pads, sport and performance. Anybody else have issues with magura squeal and help with resolving?

They can be fiddly. But squeal is generally just miss alignment.. If I develop a howl or squeal it almost always goes with resetting the callipers.. also the Performance pads are quieter than Race

 

[whwv]

What adapter did you use to go from the 200m rotors to these 220mm rotors? My wife has just received a YT Decoy with the SRAM R brakes, and they don't compare to Saint/Zee/XT I've used in the past. Others have also said these Magura rotors will improve things.

SRAM 40mm post mount adapter. Same part as listed in this post, but ordered from JensonUSA or Competitive Cyclist (can't remember which). That said, I don't know what the YT Decoy frame is built for. If it's 180 front and rear, then same parts.

 

[RustyIron]

I’ve sanded and cleaned many times, never lasts for a full ride. I’ll try the pad swap otherwise it’s so annoying I may look for a change. Stopping power is awesome and aesthetically I love the look but the noise is frustrating and annoying on group rides.

I run MT7's on MDR-C rotors. They have just over 500 miles on them. I love the way they function... except the slight noise they make. It's a high-pitched squeal, but it's not very loud, probably not even as loud as my tires. But it's there at certain speeds and braking pressure.

My usual tricks for quieting brakes has had only minimal effect:
1. Align calipers perfectly.
2. Chamfer leading and trailing edges of pads.
3. CRC Disk Brake Quiet. This dampens vibration. I only used a minute amount, and maybe should use a thicker layer.

If your vibration is so great that other riders can hear it, then maybe these three things will help.

 

[maramouse]

I used mt7, a "shigura" mixed mt5 calipers and xt lever and now xt 4 pistons with bca rotors, for my small hands, i prefer shimano ergonomic lever, the "shigura" was the powerfull brake I ever used, but poor modulation, mt7 have the best modulation, but you have to squeeze the levers to stop and I don't like it, the xt are powerful and modular the right, in imho

 

[cappuccino34]

MT7 here. They've been faultless apart from very short pad life on genuine pads, but switching to Nukeproof sintered pads fixed that. They're also better in every way, besides lasting longer.

The only other thing was that the floating disk on the rear suddenly got noisy, which in itself wasn't a problem because it didn't affect performance at all, but it meant that I couldn't hear any new noises so I just replaced the disk.

Performance has been absolutely brilliant.

Roughly twice as powerful as the garbage SRAM Code Rs that were on my bike before.

 

[RM.SGO]

About to start building a 2022 S-Works frameset. Is there an adapter needed to put the 203MM MDR-P on the rear? Frame is an S3, also curious if anyone has run the 220 back there with any issues? Currently running the 220s front and rear on my 2019 Expert Medium but the clearance in the rear is tighter than I would like as I move to a carbon rear swing arm.

 

[Stihldog]

Mt7’s here also. 5 of us installed the 220mm MDR floating rotors front and rear on Rail 7 and 9.7. Most of us eventually changed the rear back to MDR 203mm. (Which used the original 203mm adapter). Reason being that the rear brake was too sensitive or aggressive and didn’t quite give the modulation needed (or expected). Rear tires wore out faster and sliding the rear around switch-backs was touchy. I find the braking much better with 220 front and 203 rear.

On another note; one front 220mm rotor began to sound like a tambourine when riding over any terrain. I suspect that the rivets were not set properly. Solution; changed the rotor. Problem solved but at a cost.

 

[whwv]

About to start building a 2022 S-Works frameset. Is there an adapter needed to put the 203MM MDR-P on the rear? Frame is an S3, also curious if anyone has run the 220 back there with any issues? Currently running the 220s front and rear on my 2019 Expert Medium but the clearance in the rear is tighter than I would like as I move to a carbon rear swing arm.

I’m running 220 MDR front and back on an S3 with no issues. Using them with the stock code brakes that came with my build and those rotors were enough to keep me from having to buy a new brake system. I have codes on all my other bikes but they weren’t cutting it on the levo until the rotor upgrade.

 

[RM.SGO]

@whwv how’s your clearance in the back? Any pics? Which spacer did you use?

 

[Murch]

I went from XT with 220 MM Galfer rotors to MT7 with the same but new rotors and I am kicking myself for not making the switch sooner. The lever feel and pull are so consistent with MT7's, they feel the same front and back. With XT/XTR the rear lever always pulled differently from the front.