I’m Out , not only out but screwed ! 😱

[Jaspy]

Who would ever thought riding in snow would screw your bike over, I sure didn’t ! After one of many crashes my bars on the left side got buried in the snow. After remounting I attempted to ride and immediately got a flashing red light and fault code. I turned the bike off n on to no avail. Looking things over I found one of the little push buttons covers had snapped off and filled with snow ! Rats!! After cleaning the snow off and digging into the white stuff I amazingly found the little button cover Taking out my handy tool kit I proceeded to glue the piece back on. Well it held but still didn’t work . Looks like today was going to be my walk out day
Thankfully I was way up in the mountains in the middle of nowhere. I say thankfully because it was mostly down hill back. Have you ever noticed how uphill sections seem to come out of nowhere when your walking out !? Three hrs later I was back and dropped dead Later I attempted to warm/blow dry the controller with no joy Scouring the net for a replacement controller (pn# X1V–83500–00) none were to be found Anywhere !! Apparently it’s on perpetual back order with Yamaha with No ETA insight Now what !?
I am not surprised but still majorly disappointed, my ride is my life saver.
Anyone out there have a spare controller for a Yamaha?

 

[Jackware]

Is it the Yamaha type C display?
If so I thought the control buttons unit came complete with the display unit ☹

Also I think the Type A is compatible as I swapped display/ controller from A to C and its straight swap with the plug connector in the top of the frame.

 

[Jaspy]

Is it the Yamaha type C display?
If so I thought the control buttons unit came complete with the display unit ☹

Also I think the Type A is compatible as I swapped display/ controller from A to C and its straight swap with the plug connector in the top of the frame.

No rats it’s the X display and of course the connectors are completely different on a Yamaha branded bike . Plus your right the display is attached with the control buttons by a wire that is not detachable.
I also looked to see if the new controller that is used with the newv pw-X-3 motor because it is way sweeter I think. But I was told the bikes have to be released first and that … blablabla… Long story short I am seriously thinking of buying another ebike to get back out in the Mountains. The way things are smelling it could be next fall .

 

[Stihldog]

A new bike it is then. …

 

[apac]

So, are you saying that without those buttons the bike will not turn on and function? That's a bit short sited by the manufacturer. can you open the controller and try and de-solder or snip the wires?

what does the main controller do? Does it have a user interface? If so I would just open it up and remove the handlebar buttons.

 

[Jackware]

Looking at the parts illustration you posted there's an adaptor loom between the display wire and the bike's loom.
If you can take a picture of the plug coming off the display unit and check the number of wires, I check how it compares to my loom (and therefore the type A & C displays).

 

[Jaspy]

A new bike it is then. …

Stihldog the biggest concern I have about buying another new ride is the motor water ingress problem on EVERY brand currently available I don’t know if Yamaha has addressed that issue on their new pw-x-3 motor or not ? Water water everywhere ! Seriously I no longer consider any ebike reliable because of that unaddressed issue which is a Huge one considering where I ride. This forum is Loaded with riders across the Planet who are going through motors like toilet paper. Just look at what Gary has gone through for example. At any rate I will be looking and attempting to repair my Yammy. I really love this bike aside from the Major water issue.

 

[Jaspy]

Looking at the parts illustration you posted there's an adaptor loom between the display wire and the bike's loom.
If you can take a picture of the plug coming off the display unit and check the number of wires, I check how it compares to my loom (and therefore the type A & C displays).

Jackware you are correct about the harness it is stuffed up inside the frame and as yet I haven’t pulled it out to see what kind of connectors are on it but I will and will get back to you. Thanks

 

[Jaspy]

So, are you saying that without those buttons the bike will not turn on and function? That's a bit short sited by the manufacturer. can you open the controller and try and de-solder or snip the wires?

what does the main controller do? Does it have a user interface? If so I would just open it up and remove the handlebar buttons.

Apac the controller ( display and buttons) are the brains of everything. Without it the motor will not even turn over. As far as waterproofing goes all our bikes are weak , if not through the controller , the main crank bearings will do you in, it’s just a matter of time unless you ride your bike on Dry pavement with the roadies.
The display and buttons are permanently glued shut and are non serviceable.

 

[apac]

Apac the controller ( display and buttons) are the brains of everything. Without it the motor will not even turn over. As far as waterproofing goes all our bikes are weak , if not through the controller , the main crank bearings will do you in, it’s just a matter of time unless you ride your bike on Dry pavement with the roadies.
The display and buttons are permanently glued shut and are non serviceable.

So the whole bike can only function from the switch on the handle bar , and the bike is redundant if that breaks... Really? Ridiculous. Is the main controller damaged too?

 

[Stihldog]

So the whole bike can only function from the switch on the handle bar , and the bike is redundant if that breaks... Really? Ridiculous. Is the main controller damaged too?

I think it’s similar to the old kiox controller too. Your dead-in-the-water without it.

 

[Stihldog]

Apac the controller ( display and buttons) are the brains of everything. Without it the motor will not even turn over. As far as waterproofing goes all our bikes are weak , if not through the controller , the main crank bearings will do you in, it’s just a matter of time unless you ride your bike on Dry pavement with the roadies.
The display and buttons are permanently glued shut and are non serviceable.

Fortunately I have a spare Purion controller in the tool drawer (leftover from the Kiox upgrade) in case this ever happens to me.

 

[Jaspy]

Apac this is the way All ebikes function as far as I know. The controller is The brains of every motor, without it your outta luck. Even though some units may have integrated switches right in the display, it’s still the same story.

 

[Jaspy]

Now here is the kicker about the whole deal, the controller might be just fine ! Yeps it might just be a coincidence and the real problem may yet be the torque sensor or motherboard in the motor. ” Unfortunately you cannot not swap a motherboard (even if I found one) as they are keyed into the magnetic polarity of the motor. It won’t wake up and essentially will not work. (bearingman)From what I am hearing the fault codes don’t always tell the real story. So I could end up replacing the controller assembly and find out the motor still doesn’t run. Which basically means I have a nice boat anchor since boards are not available nor can be changed.

 

[Stihldog]

Now here is the kicker about the whole deal, the controller might be just fine ! Yeps it might just be a coincidence and the real problem may yet be the torque sensor or motherboard in the motor. ” Unfortunately you cannot not swap a motherboard (even if I found one) as they are keyed into the magnetic polarity of the motor. It won’t wake up and essentially will not work. (bearingman)From what I am hearing the fault codes don’t always tell the real story. So I could end up replacing the controller assembly and find out the motor still doesn’t run. Which basically means I have a nice boat anchor since boards are not available nor can be changed.

We’ll that’s just great …3 possible problems. Cheapest fix first?
You’ll be a rocket-surgeon after this.

 

[Daev]

"It's not rocket science...." Apparently it is - with all this in mind I think my purchase might be my one and only with regards to emtbs - ridiculous.... oh yeah, and don't get it wet ....whaaaaa???
Good luck with sorting it out for minimum outlay.... alternately, need a boat to go with that lovely new anchor??

 

[apac]

Apac this is the way All ebikes function as far as I know. The controller is The brains of every motor, without it your outta luck. Even though some units may have integrated switches right in the display, it’s still the same story.

the switches and the motor controller are very different things.

 

[Mikerb]

Most ebike systems work on the basis of a switch ( the power on switch on whatever system you have) that completes a low voltage circuit on the CAN ( usually 12v). That enables the controller ( the brains of the system) to do a system start up routine checking components required to make the system functional are working. They typically consist the speed sensor, the torque sensor and the battery. If the start up procedure works OK power from the battery is switched to the electric motor ( 36v or whatever V for your system).
So the mode change device is sometimes also the controller ( e.g. a Purion on a Bosch system), but not always. On a Levo the TCU is the controller and the mode slector is merely a set of switches.

So coming to your bike, your initial photo of the mode selector looks like the C system as per the attached and as per @Jackware s post and the power on/off switch is on the display not on the mode selector. So what exactly was damaged and how in the crash?

Display C - Yamaha e-Bike display & switch (yamaha-motor.eu)

 

[apac]

The TCU is not the controller it's just a programming unit for the controller. The ebikes electronic controller is inside the motor housing.

 

[Jaspy]

Most ebike systems work on the basis of a switch ( the power on switch on whatever system you have) that completes a low voltage circuit on the CAN ( usually 12v). That enables the controller ( the brains of the system) to do a system start up routine checking components required to make the system functional are working. They typically consist the speed sensor, the torque sensor and the battery. If the start up procedure works OK power from the battery is switched to the electric motor ( 36v or whatever V for your system).
So the mode change device is sometimes also the controller ( e.g. a Purion on a Bosch system), but not always. On a Levo the TCU is the controller and the mode slector is merely a set of switches.

So coming to your bike, your initial photo of the mode selector looks like the C system as per the attached and as per @Jackware s post and the power on/off switch is on the display not on the mode selector. So what exactly was damaged and how in the crash?

Display C - Yamaha e-Bike display & switch (yamaha-motor.eu)

Mikerb I need item number 1 part # 2 X1V–83500–00 METER ASSY.
As you can see it’s only available complete and they are calling it a meter assembly.
I broke the up button when I crashed into a snowbank.
End view of buttons with obvious sharp edges where I have snagged my gloves before.

 

[Jaspy]

Since it’s going to be a while before this problem is solved I decided drop the motor and to split the cases…


You guessed it moisture in fine droplets inside the case on everything !
The plot thickens…

 

[Jaspy]

Looking at the parts illustration you posted there's an adaptor loom between the display wire and the bike's loom.
If you can take a picture of the plug coming off the display unit and check the number of wires, I check how it compares to my loom (and therefore the type A & C displays).

Here is the black connector from the display unit.

 

[Jackware]

Looks identical to the normal connector;

This sites keeps all the options in stock;

Buy Yamaha E-Bike Display & Parts at HBS

Buy Yamaha E-Bike Display & Parts online? The largest Yamaha

hollandbikeshop.com

 

[Jaspy]

Looks identical to the normal connector;

View attachment 81607

This sites keeps all the options in stock;

Buy Yamaha E-Bike Display & Parts at HBS

Buy Yamaha E-Bike Display & Parts online? The largest Yamaha

hollandbikeshop.com

I actually saw this site and I cannot find any Yamaha part number or which bike application it fits. Plus the buttons are different then mine. The problem being if I just take a chance and it doesn’t fit, there is No returning. The listing says they have it in stock but we all know that’s not always the case. I sent an email to see if they can supply me with further info. Keeping my fingers crossed.
Here is mine , notice the difference the mounting looks like it’s vertical ?

 

[Mikerb]

my point was that the part you damaged is purely the mode switch and I do not see why damage to one of the switches would result in the bike not switching on at all, although without a wiring diagram it is not easy to determine how the CAN is routed. The on/off switch is on the display and if that has 12v on standby the bike should at least power up. So I am just wondering if the damage to the mode switch is a red herring and some other damage was done in the accident..........perhaps involving the main battery connections and/or connection to the display.

 

[Jaspy]

Mikerb I believe the switch may indeed be a red herring. I have since split the cases and have found water droplets everywhere. It looks like something that was put in a freezer and then thawed out. Is it possible that condensation can build up just from a huge temp swing ? I have been riding this winter in -20-25c outside and then bring the bike into a heated space of 20c inside. Can the heat of the motor working hard create condensation when cooled ? Is there anyway water can enter the motor other then through the
bearings/seals ?
I cannot see anything visible as far as damage to any of the boards , no shorts or water damage on anything. All the circuitry seems to be Well covered in a clear coating with no lifting anywhere I could see. So I have been drying everything out in a 30c oven with a fan blowing on the entire inside of the motor and hopefully it may do the trick.

This is the one way vent letting moisture out but not in… hmmm

 

[apac]

Use some copper gasket sealant around the edges of the motor casing when putting it back together.

it's nice to know that the controller has been varnished. You may get lucky and it will power up once you've dried everything out.
It could be worth brushing some ACF50 onto the contact points of any plugs If condensation is a problem.

Unfortunately if there is no breather hole to allow moisture out of the motor housing then condensation will keep happening as the motor heats up and cools.

Nice photos by the way, have you photographed the stator side? That would be good to see too.

 

[Jaspy]

Use some copper gasket sealant around the edges of the motor casing when putting it back together.

it's nice to know that the controller has been varnished. You may get lucky and it will power up once you've dried everything out.
It could be worth brushing some ACF50 onto the contact points of any plugs If condensation is a problem.

Unfortunately if there is no breather hole to allow moisture out of the motor housing then condensation will keep happening as the motor heats up and cools.

Nice photos by the way, have you photographed the stator side? That would be good to see too.

Vent hole you say …
Lookie here …

 

[apac]

Well done to Yamaha for including a one way air valve

 

[Mikerb]

If it was that cold when you crashed............and you then spent 20 mins or so finding and refitting the switch cover I wonder if the main battery or perhaps an auxiliary battery in the display shut down due to being too cold??
Does the display have an auxilliary battery?
Have you checked the main battery...does it have a onboard switch or charge level display?..........have you connected the charger to see what happens?