(HELP) Newbie just made a Custom Chinese Full Carbon EMTB Beast for $3000. What do you guys think?

[Polar]

I'm looking at the prices but they are all over the place. Which of these recommended brakes are closely priced to the full brake set of the XT M8100.

I still got time to change them if need be.

Most ppl will recommend what they use themselves but I'm pretty sure the brakes with most stopping power is Saints and Maven ultimate/silver Saints being more on/off and Maven better modulation. Since I use Maven 220/200 with no downside in my use I'll recommend them.
Power, modulation, freestroke, easy bleeding and of course price is the factors you have to take into consideration.
Other will have a different opinion.

 

[ah1]

If

To confirm the above for the OP Shimano XT M8100 4 pots will stop that bike on any trail that bike will handle.

Based on OP self proclaimed riding style I agree. For the others that think the XT are powerful enough to take a full powered on any steep, I disagree from experience. It's not just about the number of pistons, and ebikes generally need more stopping power than downhill bikes which are never expect with these XTs anyway

 

[Abizzle55]

So it's a great all rounder to start with. As I get more adventurous downhill, I will need to upgrade them to SRAM Mavins for example. Got it.

 

[Abizzle55]

Thanks for all the comments on the brakes.

However has no one got any comments on the RS Domain Gold RC? Thought front fork was one of the most important and costly component.

Any good?

Rear I think is covered as RS Super Deluxe Ultimate is a very good shock.

Are they a good match or is the rear better than the front?

 

[juggernaut]

Thank god for that!

60 volt! Have you tuned it? Apparently the motors good for 2000w over tune. Especially with the metal gear update over the plastic one they had before.

What kind of max speed you getting?

It’s the Frey Beast - comes specced with 60 volt 1800 watt motor. Peddle hard enough and you‘ll be rewarded with 60 klm top speeds running 20 psi pressures in the Maxxis’.

To be honest though I've never gone out with fully charged battery solely for a top speed run, With different tyres and/or pressures higher top speeds might be possible but you are pushing a lot of air so I’m not sure.

It did change the chainring to 48T to keep my 56 year old legs from going super sonic at those speeds as well as less use of the smaller cogs generally. I’d recommend you fit the biggest chainring you can, as I found the stock 42T frustrating to ride plus you’ll be using the bigger cogs on your cassette which will be better for longevity.

Not even the roadies have a chance but it’s fun to see them try

 

[Abizzle55]

Wow, that's excellent info in regards to chain ring.

Is that 1800w from the Bafang M620? I might get the factory to tune mines to that as well.

Can you tell me what battery model you have?

Thanks

 

[Doomanic]

If that parts list is being supplied by the frame supplier I'd be very surprised if it's not knock-off...

 

[Abizzle55]

If that parts list is being supplied by the frame supplier I'd be very surprised if it's not knock-off...

I did think the same, however one clue leads me to believe they are genuine. I originally asked for RS Deluxe Ultimate and they came back saying the factory is out of stock but the Deluxe Select+ is available.

If they were knock offs then they would easily be able to get various quality of knock offs for that model. Instead they said wait 2 months for factory stock or choose another model.

So I done further investigation and found out they are very low on stock at factory and various local suppliers.

So I reverted to RS Super Deluxe Ultimate. They will get back to me tomorrow on availability.

 

[arTNC]

1000W your drivetrain will implode quickly lol. ebikes are still using frail mtb components for drivetrains unfortanately. we either need thick steel chains and sprockets or belt driven eventually.

Not necessarily. I'm a long time pedal-only MTB'er and had the urge to test the waters of emtb. Rather than jump off the deep end of 5K-7K priced factory emtb's, I took one of my old MTB's, a 2003 Santa Cruz Bullit and stuck a Bafang BBSHD motor on it. It was surprisingly good enough to ride for three years until I got a Rail 7.

I ran my standard 9-speed SRAM drivetrain that was on the bike and eventually went to the lower priced but durable Shimano CUES 9-speed drivetrain. The BBSHD is rated 1000W, but has a peak output around 1500W. I don't ride bike paths or pavement. It has been used for aggressive MTB only. I was frankly surprised how well this combo worked as I was fully prepared for total disappointment.

My drivetrains haven't had premature or early death even though I somewhat expected such. Maybe hamfisted, dullards can destroy any drivetrain with poor setup, poor shifting, and/or poor maintenance. I think this issue is somewhat overrated on emtbs. I think some of this perception is from trying to run XC components on emtbs which might not be a good idea.

 

[Astro66]

Head Angle and Seat Tube Angle are XC geometry. So 4 pot XT brakes will be just fine.

All looks good. Fork and Shock can be upgraded later. But are perfectly adequate.

Maxxix Rekon are XC tyres. So maybe an upgrade here is justified. It really depends on what sort of XC trails you'll be riding on.

All in all, a great XC bike. My only negative, is I would have chosen Enduro geometry to match your longer travel suspension. Especially if you are looking to downhill later. Geometry can't be upgraded. So it's something you need to think about at the start, when you get a new bike.

 

[skinnyboy]

This: Especially if you are looking to downhill later. Geometry can't be upgraded. So it's something you need to think about at the start, when you get a new bike.

From the figures posted it has a 500mm rear centre (RC/chainstay length), which is very long. Given the wheelbase (and front centre and battery location) it will put a lot of weight on the front wheel. I like long chainstays, but 460mm is long on that wheelbase. Regardless of the components it will not be a happy downhill bike for sure. Maybe not even good for milder riding. Never tried a bike with even close to that weight distribution. Be wary.

Cheers.

 

[Astro66]

Agree. The bike isn't going to downhill easily with that geometry.

I made that mistake with my first MTB. I thought I wouldn't do much downhill. So I got an XC bike. Invariably you start doing downhill, and the slacker geometry bikes, just give you so much more confidence. And I changed to an Enduro EMTB.

 

[Mrj35]

This: Especially if you are looking to downhill later. Geometry can't be upgraded. So it's something you need to think about at the start, when you get a new bike.

From the figures posted it has a 500mm rear centre (RC/chainstay length), which is very long. Given the wheelbase (and front centre and battery location) it will put a lot of weight on the front wheel. I like long chainstays, but 460mm is long on that wheelbase. Regardless of the components it will not be a happy downhill bike for sure. Maybe not even good for milder riding. Never tried a bike with even close to that weight distribution. Be wary.

Cheers.

My bike has 462mm chainstays and it is a dh machine. It's so planted its amazing. But im also 6'3 so its good for me

 

[Astro66]

My bike has 462mm chainstays and it is a dh machine. It's so planted its amazing. But im also 6'3 so its good for me

But it's combined with a steep head angle. This bike is 68 degrees. Enduro is 65-66. Downhill is around 63.

 

[TimC7]

If you end up not liking it and decide to change you'll lose less on that in a year than the depreciation on a high end bike IMHO, but it sounds good for your intended use - battery size, motor, suspension, brakes will be fine for XC and easy DH.

 

[Abizzle55]

Thanks guys, all makes sense. And for Trail and XC the geometry and components should do just fine. If I get serious about DH later, I can always sell it and get an enduro and won't get stung on depreciation.

 

[Doomanic]

Carbon Riser Handlebars

Do you have a dental plan?

To answer you original question, "What do you guys think?" I think it makes a Haibike look pretty and I wouldn't touch it with a barge-pole. There's loads of discounts around on mainstream eBikes at the moment which make it even harder to justify IMHO.

 

[TimC7]

Thanks guys, all makes sense. And for Trail and XC the geometry and components should do just fine. If I get serious about DH later, I can always sell it and get an enduro and won't get stung on depreciation.

Be interesting to see how it pans out - where in the UK do you ride?

 

[Abizzle55]

I'm in Hampshire, near New Forest.

 

[Bummers]

Head tube angle far to steep, slacken it so it's a better all rounder. That handlebar riser looks terrible, why does it need a 100mm stem like that?
I'm surprised with all the XT brake comments, I thought they were pretty decent. Got them on my action team and no complaints.

Agree that the motor is overkill, the other options would suit far more, be less bulky and lighter.

I'd rather a second hand top of the range Zeb than a new mediocre fork if that's an option for you.

 

[juggernaut]

Wow, that's excellent info in regards to chain ring.

Is that 1800w from the Bafang M620? I might get the factory to tune mines to that as well.

Can you tell me what battery model you have?

Thanks

You can’t use a 60 volt battery on a 48 volt m620. The 1800 watt m620 has a custom controller to suit 60 volts.

Can you order you bike with the 52 volt m620, if so I would go with that. Also do you know if you are getting the Canbus or UART version of the m620?

 

[Abizzle55]

Unfortunately this is a brand new build at factory. So can't really use used higher end components. Everything will be new, which obviously dictates end price so had to get a balance.

Looks wise, it's not too dissimilar to some top end manufacturers, just needs a decent colour scheme to bring it out. I quite dig the two colour areas I have a choice to paint. One singular coloured frame can get a bit boring.

 

[Abizzle55]

You can’t use a 60 volt battery on a 48 volt m620. The 1800 watt m620 has a custom controller to suit 60 volts.

Can you order you bike with the 52 volt m620, if so I would go with that. Also do you know if you are getting the Canbus or UART version of the m620?

Which is the best for tuning? Can us or UART? Also can I reprogram the motor if I were to introduce 52/60V later?

 

[juggernaut]

UART is best for tuning. The 60 volt m620 is Canbus.

 

[skinnyboy]

My bike has 462mm chainstays and it is a dh machine. It's so planted its amazing. But im also 6'3 so its good for me

Agreed, I'm 6' and 450-460mm keeps the front end really planted. It's a geometry figure that seems to get lost in the shuffle with all the other numbers (since the whole "the shorter chainstays, the better" thing blew over). 10mm makes so much difference here, especially considering the battery placement. Good to see companies (like Norco) starting to offer size specific lengths. I can't even fathom a 500mm chainstay, sounds like a recipe for (face) planted.


Cheers.

 

[Mrj35]

But it's combined with a steep head angle. This bike is 68 degrees. Enduro is 65-66. Downhill is around 63.

oh yeah good point mines 63 head angle

 

[Mrj35]

Agreed, I'm 6' and 450-460mm keeps the front end really planted. It's a geometry figure that seems to get lost in the shuffle with all the other numbers (since the whole "the shorter chainstays, the better" thing blew over). 10mm makes so much difference here, especially considering the battery placement. Good to see companies (like Norco) starting to offer size specific lengths. I can't even fathom a 500mm chainstay, sounds like a recipe for (face) planted.


Cheers.

greg minnaar uses longer chainstays at 460mm i think, for dh, he's also pretty tall. Also I went with 40mm rise bars and that helped me a lot too with ideal body position for my height. Yeah I wouldn't want to go much bigger as it would be too difficult to pop off stuff (reach is 515mm). Its pretty cumbersome in slow tech though, definitely not ideal for slower tech so I stick to the more open speed stuff these days.

 

[Mrj35]

I'd just find a proper used ebike that is lower spec but good geometry and shocks. Your riding XC so your components dont really matter much anyway you won't break anything. That bike might be great for a year then it'll probably have problems, or you get lucky and no problems lol.

 

[Abizzle55]

If I can change the frame to something like this but with the exact same components, would it be a better all rounder?

 

[Mrj35]

If I can change the frame to something like this but with the exact same components, would it be a better all rounder?
View attachment 143278

thats much better