This is not for the E8000 motor.Shimano also sell a specific cabling kit:
Shimano STePS SM-DUE01 Adapter for Light
You just need to enable the lights option using the options on the shimano steps phone app.I am not able to select lights on in the menu of the Shimano display. It just beeps when I try to select the "Light" menu. Do I have to ask the manufacturer to open this option or something? Which is really a PITA. Thanks!
You just need to enable the lights option using the options on the shimano steps phone app.
I found it kinda weird Shimano disable the option on the head unit from new TBH.
also weird there's not a load of easily plug in light head unit options avaialable at a reasonable price.
It's tricky because I don't know if it limits to 1Amp or that's all the components inside are built to deliver, on one hand it could work but limit the through-put, on the other it could cut the supply or damage the components by drawing too much and overheat the circuts!Aha thats very good information. According to what you wrote on the other thread, if one installs a 6V light that draws more power then 1 amp to turn on, then it should simply not work. Is there a risk to the engine circuits by doing so ? I would think not but better make sure
The reason i am asking this is that i have 3 lights in the range 5-6v and 1000-2500 lumens. I dont now how much wattage they have and i was thinking of just trying them....
Thanks; that’s really useful. Don’t really want to put a notch in the motor cover so I’ll explore the internal route. I hadn’t realised that lights were such a significant current draw, might have to rethink that one or invest in a spare battery.I don't know if the design is similar on all bikes, but on mine there are cables coming out of the frame just behind the motor. On front of the motor there is a large flap door fastened with just two screws. I used a stiff wire from the motor compartment to find the way through to these openings, and then used this wire to pull through the electrical wires. In this way you can at least get the wires out of the motor compartment. If you do not want to do it this way, I would suggest you make a notch at the edge of the cover to allow the wire to come out. You may want to use silicone to make it water tight. Do not drill a hole since the cover then will be stuck to the wire.
Be aware of one VERY IMPORTANT ISSUE if you enable the light terminal (must be enabled using the Shimano E-Tube app): when light is enabled, the E8000 controller will calculate a backup power to maintain the operation of the light for a minimum of 40 minutes. This can be programmed to be more (only a Shimano dealer has the tools to do that), but not less. The disaster is what I experienced: I had still 2 bars left on the battery gauge when I started on an uphill. Then the motor suddenly was cut off becase the controller figured out it had to reserve the remaining battery for the lights! I have checked this with Shimano, who confirms this is what you may experience. So my conclusion is that the light feature is completely useless. I am now instead using an external power bank to power my cell phone for navigation (see my previous post).
Did you hardwire it? Which rear light did you go for?Meanwhile i have bought the Lezyne MacroDrive 1000 and installed it on my bike Never had such a powerfull light on a bike. Also connected some rear lights. I am like a Christmas tree now on the road
The really bad thing is that this becomes an issue as soon as you enable light with the E-Tube app - even if you are not drawing any current at all! And even if you have turned light off in the settings on the controller (using the buttons). The controller calculates worse case scenario, which is 2A (max rating) - not matter what the actual current flow is. I was not drawing any current at all when I experienced the issue.Thanks; that’s really useful. Don’t really want to put a notch in the motor cover so I’ll explore the internal route. I hadn’t realised that lights were such a significant current draw, might have to rethink that one or invest in a spare battery.
I currently use rechargeable lights but they don’t give me the range/reliability I want.
I see, so once activated it limits your range whether you are using a light or not. Explains why it is turned off as the default setting.The really bad thing is that this becomes an issue as soon as you enable light with the E-Tube app - even if you are not drawing any current at all! And even if you have turned light off in the settings on the controller (using the buttons). The controller calculates worse case scenario, which is 2A (max rating) - not matter what the actual current flow is. I was not drawing any current at all when I experienced the issue.
A good point; a couple of LEDs shouldn't need that much power. Most lights seem to be 6W, too.This doesn't add up. 504 WH battery at between 20% and 40% charge, and it wants to save it all for 40 minutes of 12 watt light? It should have at least 100 WH left, and the light should take a max of 8 WH.
Did you hardwire it? Which rear light did you go for?
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