E7000 V E8000
- Thread starter ccrdave
- Start date
- Thread starter
- #3
thanks the reason for my question I am looking for a shimano powered bike for some long distance stuff we are planning next year 60-80 miles a day type stuff.
Carrying extra batteries is paramount and shimano batteries are more portable that spesh ones.
bikes on my list
canyon neuron ON
thok mig st (both have e8000)
and maybe a hardtail such as vitus sentier but the 2019 base model has a e7000 motor and I wondered about lack of power for the long distance stuff but conversly I wondered f the e7000 would be more economical battery wise
Carrying extra batteries is paramount and shimano batteries are more portable that spesh ones.
bikes on my list
canyon neuron ON
thok mig st (both have e8000)
and maybe a hardtail such as vitus sentier but the 2019 base model has a e7000 motor and I wondered about lack of power for the long distance stuff but conversly I wondered f the e7000 would be more economical battery wise
- Thread starter
- #5
yeah i just read his report
edited the above to add his vid
I don't even get what all the song and dance about a motor making a slight noise is all about. It's a motor. embrace it! It's hardly loud.
Positives of motor noise for me include an audible guide as to how fast your motor is revving and the torque it's putting out.
This is handy when negotiating anything technical or low grip.
It also tells you when to change gear lightly when you ease off the power pedalling.
I can't think of any negatives other than vanity.
Positives of motor noise for me include an audible guide as to how fast your motor is revving and the torque it's putting out.
This is handy when negotiating anything technical or low grip.
It also tells you when to change gear lightly when you ease off the power pedalling.
I can't think of any negatives other than vanity.
Oh.. also. With the E8000 in it's standard configuration trail is set to LOW and as such for me didn't offer enough of a difference from ECO. I changed mine to MED and it's far better all round for my use. This should be configuarble to taste just the same on the E7000.
Something I wish both motors had was some sort of properly custom settings relating to how the motor delivers it's power assistance with regards to cadence as Shimano assume 100rpm is fast. I on the other hand don't consider that to be anywhere close to a fast cadence. When my motor was new it actually shut off assistance at around 135-140rpm but I think through firmware tweaks it no longer does. But it'd still be nice to be able to control where the sweet spot is for riders with preference for either a low, high cadence or freaks like me with high peak but very wide cadence range. But that's just a tiny niggle and something most riders wouldn't even understand nevermind want. In reality it works really well without it.
Something I wish both motors had was some sort of properly custom settings relating to how the motor delivers it's power assistance with regards to cadence as Shimano assume 100rpm is fast. I on the other hand don't consider that to be anywhere close to a fast cadence. When my motor was new it actually shut off assistance at around 135-140rpm but I think through firmware tweaks it no longer does. But it'd still be nice to be able to control where the sweet spot is for riders with preference for either a low, high cadence or freaks like me with high peak but very wide cadence range. But that's just a tiny niggle and something most riders wouldn't even understand nevermind want. In reality it works really well without it.
Boosted
New Member
Out of interest how do you re-configure a Shimano E8000 motor? Im yet to receive my bike so have no idea? Does re-configuring have any affect on warranty?
I have an E8000 and never find the motor noise intrusive. My wife has a Yamaha PW with pretty much the same noise loudness but different pitch - luckily neither of them is annoying.
On asphalt roads, I'm running ECO and offroad I use Trail (set to Mid) with the E8000.
I've never ridden E7000 but I as I'm not using Boost on the E8000 I think the power of the 7000 would be just as sufficient for my riding style.
As you will not use full power on long distance riding either of them would be a good choice. I would buy the bike that I like better (geo, specs, color etc.) regardless of the motor.
On asphalt roads, I'm running ECO and offroad I use Trail (set to Mid) with the E8000.
I've never ridden E7000 but I as I'm not using Boost on the E8000 I think the power of the 7000 would be just as sufficient for my riding style.
As you will not use full power on long distance riding either of them would be a good choice. I would buy the bike that I like better (geo, specs, color etc.) regardless of the motor.
steve_sordy
Wedding Crasher
Until I saw that review I thought they were the same motor but with different peripherals. Every day is a learning day!
- Thread starter
- #13
With the Shimano Steps App.
It's just simple configuration settings. Eco isn't adjustable, Boost and Trail can be Low, Med or High. The rest of the settings are mainly just display options for the screen on the bike.
None of it affects warranty
If the e7000 puts out less peak power than I would presume it uses less battery ? The trail mode on the shimano s is reactive, it senses your inputs and reacts accordingly, upping the support to near boost levels if it thinks you need it.
Boosted
New Member
Great thanks. A little like Specialized Mission Control then but with less options.
Don't know. Never used Spesh mission control. Sorry.
Google it.
Shimano have a cartoony video explaining it.
Google it.
Shimano have a cartoony video explaining it.
- Thread starter
- #19
does that reactive mode work on the e7000 as well?
Northumbrian
New Member
I tend to run trail at the lowest setting, it is similar to eco, but with a bit extra when needed. Suits my style of riding, when i’m looking for eeking out extra distance.
On that, the 7000 might be a better choice, (or loose some weight, get fitter, change to faster rolling rubber.....)
On that, the 7000 might be a better choice, (or loose some weight, get fitter, change to faster rolling rubber.....)
steve_sordy
Wedding Crasher
It does not put out less peak power, it puts out less torque 60Nm instead of 70Nm for the e8000 (Nm = Newton-meter). So at the same pedalling rate, yes it will draw less power (power usage is proportional to cadence x torque.
One Nm is equivalent to 102 grams weight on the end of a meter long lever, or 618gm on the end of a 165mm crank. Therefore 60 Nm is equivalent to 37kg on your 165mm crank. No wonder boost mode makes you go so quickly!
Disclaimer: No brain cells were harmed in the production of this post.
So basically wear your steel toecapped work boots and you've upgraded 1000 Es?
cool!
cool!
Maybe, but you’d need to wear on light boot and swap it between feet every half a pedal stroke, so possibly not that practical...So basically wear your steel toecapped work boots and you've upgraded 1000 Es?
cool!
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