E-Sommet: 2 Years On

[R120]

223MM FTW for car park steeeeezzzeee offs - nothing says business more than 223mm when I am pulling my Vitus out fo my Smart car.

 

[R120]

True to my word when I said I thought I would be leaving the bike as it is for a while, I have gone and bought some new drivetrain bits - still waiting on one more delivery . .

 

[R120]

Much better

Went with an E Thirteen chain device

E*Thirteen

I have a Funn chain device on back order too which IMO is the neatest of the current available options, but will likely fit that to my E-Sentier. The Funn can also be centred on the chain with the chain ring locked on, so a bit better design IMO.

FUNN

Note to anyone wanting to replace the chain guide you will need to remove the chain ring/spider, which requires a specific tool (though you can bodge it with some plumbers grips, but I didn't want to take the risk). Its not hard to do with the proper tool, and I would suggest a useful addition to the tool box because it allows you to get everything off for a thorough clean behind the spider once in a while. I went with the Park Tool version as cheaper than the official Shimano one from my googling,

Also if going with the EThirteen set the side to side chain clearance before putting the lock ring back on (by loose fitting the chairing), as its adjusted by adding washers between the chain guide mount and the motor, and you cant adjust it with the chainring on. Being the idiot I am I found out the hard way by not reading the instructions before I installed it.

Half hour job if you read the insturctions

 

[Gary]

you will need to remove the chain ring/spider, which requires a specific tool

 

[Gary]

BTW, next time I need to remove the shimano chain guide there's a good chance it will be modified to 2 bolt design with the aid of above handy tool before re-fitting.
There's no need for a top guide to need 3 bolts.

@R120 I can't see what'd stop your new E13 guide from being removed without taking the shimano steps spider off. does your tarty new direct mount ring foul access to the bolts?

 

[R120]

Of course it does Gary, why on earth would I prioritise ease of maintenance when replacing a perfectly good chainring

 

[R120]

All the aftermarket chain device are 2 hole fixing, so no faffing about. I can still get to the bolts to adjust, but they seem a bit longer than the OEM Shimano ones and just hit the chainring before coming fully out.

 

[Zimmerframe]

I almost went with the e-13 or the FUNN .. I was under the impression you could "add" either without removing the chainring. In the end I "added" the shimano one because the LBS insisted they would cough up for it instead of me buying the others (there was no chainguide as standard on my bike). Instead I got stung for twice the RRP for the Shimano one

I have a new unused shimano chainring tool if anyone wants to borrow one

 

[Gary]

I have a new unused shimano chainring tool if anyone wants to borrow one

I'll buy it off you zims
Pm me

 

[Zimmerframe]

I'll buy it off you zims
Pm me

I was going to send it to you as a birthday pressy ... (disinfected ) Will PM - without the death threats this time

 

[davosaurusrex]

I got them from Dirthut on eBay

For the front, includes adapter:

Galfer Disc Brake Rotor & Adaptor 223mm Wave Fits Front Discs 180-223 SB001 8400170076881 | eBay

I didn't put a 1mm washer on like I did on the rear as it clears fine, and has worked well even though the calliper is close to the top of the disc. I reused the stock calliper bolts in the adapter, I should swap them out for shorter ones but haven got round to it.

On the rear I put a 1mm spacer/washer under the OEM calliper mount as the disc is 203mm vs the stock 200mm Sram one.

Looking on his shop now he doesn't appear to have the matching 203mm rear, just the floating version, but worth sending him a message as I remember him being helpful when I was confirming what bits I needed.

View attachment 29092

View attachment 29093

The adaptors I got with the 223mm rotors aren't marked SB001 but I'm 100% sure they are identical. I have had to space mine out between mount and caliper same as yours but when I look at Doomanic's photo on the "what have you bought" thread his Shimano caliper has no spacers. Mounted on a Yari so I assume the lowers are the same. Are the mounting points on calipers not universal?

 

[Cisco]

Here is mine for reference.

Loving this brake

 

[R120]

I have no washer on the front, just a 1mm washer out back as reused the existing mount there. I did experiment with a washer up front but its not needed with the correct Galfer mount.

 

[davosaurusrex]

Same as that. seems a bit odd that you still have to space it off.

Only had one ride on mine before launching myself into a tree, again. Just noticed I've snapped the reach adjuster off the front brake in doing so. Balls. Might try and find a lever assembly for it, might see how much you can get a Code RSC complete assembly for....

Was feeling great up until that point although you can hear the rotor passing the pads. Hoping that will wear in. I had pushed the pistons right back into the caliper and removed a bit of fluid

 

[davosaurusrex]

I have no washer on the front, just a 1mm washer out back as reused the existing mount there. I did experiment with a washer up front but its not needed with the correct Galfer mount.

I see what you mean with the 1mm washers you have put between frame and adaptor on the back. What I'm referring to is the conical washers between the adaptor and the caliper that we're all using - Doomanic's set up is caliper direct to adaptor. Are the SRAM's designed to always have the conical washers?

 

[Cisco]

The cup/conical washer is dictated by the caliper. For example if you were using a Guide caliper instead of Guide RE caliper then the cup/cone spacer would not be required.
As far as rubbing and requirement for bleeding is concerned the problem is that a pre-used caliper tends to have shit on the edges of the caliper pistons(from using the 1.8mm disc) which restricts their return on the thicker rotor. If you use a new caliper then there are no rubbing issues with the 2mm disc.

 

[R120]

Yup you need to "reset" the callipers and make sure the pistons are fully back in when installing the rotor.

 

[davosaurusrex]

Ta. Caliper mount offsets differ then

Don't think it's down to dirty pistons, I pumped them all out a bit and cleaned them up nicely before fitting the disc. Pads are used though. Might wear in but I remember being able to hear the pads on the rotors when I ran Galfer wavy rotors on my GSXR1000!

 

[davosaurusrex]

Yup you need to "reset" the callipers and make sure the pistons are fully back in when installing the rotor.

Yeah done that

 

[R120]

So all I did with mine was remove calliper, swap the adapters, reinstall calliper, use spreader tool with the old pads installed to pus the pistons back fully, remove old pads, check pistons fully back, install new pads, then install wheel with new discs, line up calliper, then go off and bed them in.

 

[R120]

One thing I would say, is that mine used to go out of alignment quite regularly, and my local mechanic recommended fitting torque caps to my DT Swiss wheels to stop this happening.

I fitted them a few weeks back, and it has made a big improvement to the alignment. As an example I was doing hard stoppies before fitting the torque caps to see if I could get the alignment to go out and figure out why , and it would after a couple of them. Same test done with the Torque caps and no problems.

Basically the really help make it more solid around the axle on an RS forks, as the force these big rotors put through the fork is very noticeable, and the caps help keep everything a bit more solid down the bottom.

 

[davosaurusrex]

Gah, another £35! Will see how I get on first I think

 

[R120]

I am a ham fisted mechanic at best so you may fare better! I ran them for a good six moths or so before getting the caps, so its not a necessity, just worth considering.

 

[CH61S]

Could you post a link to the dropper lever you installed please.

 

[R120]

Could you post a link to the dropper lever you installed please.

I have used two that are pictured in this thread, the OneUP, though mine is an older version and they now do this one:

DROPPER POST REMOTE - V2

and the PNW Loam lever

THE LOAM LEVER

Both are installed using Sram matchmaker to mount to the brake clamp, however IIRC correctly the Sram Guide RE's dont come with the matchmaker clamp as standard so you need to get one of those too.

Both levers can be bought with a dedicated clamp if you dont want to mount with the brakes.

 

[RocketMagnet]

I use a Wolf tooth Dropper remote on all my bikes. On my E Sommet I had the Clamp Non Matchmaker version spare in a box so just fitted that and it all fits nicely on the standard 800mm bars even with Revgrips fitted. Not a cheap remote but it's the best i've used and I do have the Matchmaker version on another bike. The one fitted to the 2019 Esommet worked but it's pretty nasty and gets really ugly once you take it apart and look at the mechanism.. so yeah it's one of the few things I'd recommend upgrading out of the box so to speak.
ReMote

 

[R120]

Yeah I had a Wolf Tooth on mine for a bit too, not much to choose between the 3 but the PNW is definitely the highest quality in terms of materials and thought, and has more adjustment than the others, so its what I have stuck with for now.

Reminds me of how many times I have changed up kit on the bike! Must buy a new bike to put all the spare parts on

 

[R120]

So now got my perfect set up dialled in cockpit wise and getting the information I want without having the display. Many thanks to @mark.ai for the data field he developed to enable the steps info to be displayed on certain Garmins. Super stoked on this.

 

[Cisco]

True to my word when I said I thought I would be leaving the bike as it is for a while, I have gone and bought some new drivetrain bits - still waiting on one more delivery . .

View attachment 30135

View attachment 30136

How are you finding the 36T Funn chainring.

 

[R120]

So far so good - at the end of the day its a chainring and does its job, but only about 150 miles on it so far. I won't lie, the only reason I got it over just getting another hope chainring was I prefer the look of the direct mount!

I am also now running the Funn chain device, really good quality bit of kit, definitely recommended if you want to swap out the stock Shimano one, and much better than the E13 one I briefly tried.