Regarding the Discs I will let you know when I Change them to Swissstopp Rotors, I‚m pretty sure It will fit. Regarding service, I have a lot of Dealers for Amflow within 10-15 Km around my home and I buy it at a dealer. So if there will be a problem it will be his Job to fix itAmflow first needs to prove itself IRL usage in all conditions. As It's a trail bike I am pretty sure people will want to overfork it to 170+ mm with a beafier 38mm fork, as a 36 is a bit lackluster on an emtb unless you buy it for cross country. A bigger fork will cause the back end with the tiny shock to suffer. A beafier suspension needs stronger brakes, there is the possible issue with the rear sensor disc not allowing a thicker brake rotor to be mounted due to clearance issues. The biggest hurdle and a tough one will be providing local support/service for the users. I know I definitely don't want to call an online support service or drive/ship the bike 300km+ to the first offical dealer/service.
Owning an emtb only two seasons, some electrical/electronic issues, a warranty motor replacement, the extra hassle of changing the brake lines, dropper lines, etc(all go under the motor with the majority of bikes), I came to a conclusion that, no matter the revolution, Power or Nm numbers I would never buy an emtb online or from a brand that doesn't have a reputable local dealer/service with a partnership of the chosen brand emtb.
An online chat line(most likely AI based on the start level, like a lot of brands choose to do) saying stuff like " turn of the bike for 10s and then back on" doesn't help when you start having water ingress or other electronically related issues on an ebike.
Owning a machine(what an mtb with a motor actually is) without local support and service is a Big NO GO.
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Also a bit about electric motor power and the 250W nominal power limit in the EU, as I see there seem to be some misconceptions about how an electric DC motor works and how the 250W limit is imposed on manufacturers.》》》》
The power output of an electric motor is a complex measurment:
P(Watt) = V(Volt) * I(Ampere)is only true in special circumstances eg when the load is a resistor.
It is not true in cases of an electric motor, whose real output depends on its Q factor, switching control, load etc.
This is because a motor gets pushed around its axle by solenoids, whose voltage across their terminals varies with time, the intensity of the current flowing through it is also a function of time, the output power is also a function of time with more variables than just V (voltage) and I (current Intensity).
Each function has also its harmonics, the resultant P is a complex function and it can be only measured in a lab environment.
The power is usually measured while the motor reaches its thermal equilibrium in a room at 25°C. Then there's also the factor of internal transmission that needs to be taken into consideration when looking at the final crank output numbers, if you look at some test diagrams from a german test lab the real crank Nm outputs are far lower than the speced motor are...
Also as I see a lot of people are confused about the 250W Power limit in EU, I did a little bit of online research about the European legislation EN15194, it is the standard that is most commonly applied, so maybe the bottom description will clears things up why such differences between brands.>>>>
There's effectively no limit in the European legislation EN15194, which It's all about the words and test methods, neither of which pin it down. The rules are that the manufacturer must not label the motor with more than 250w and a motor with a 250w label mustn't overheat when running at 250w continuous. You have to be careful about terminology and calculations. If you have a 20 amp controller and a battery at 40V, you can take as much as 800W from the battery, but at the low speeds where the controller will allow that current, efficiency will be as low as 25%, so the output power will only be 200W. When the motor is spinning fast enough to reach its 80% efficiency, the back EMF from the motor cuts down the current, so the maximum current from the battery might only be 10 amps max, so output power will be 10 amps x 40v x 0.8 efficiency = 320w.
From the attached diagram it can be concluded that the maximal torque of the motor is at very low speed. This is advantageous because it gives very good starting behaviour, but also means
high values of the current and the efficiency is small. So we have to deal with heating problems. The power reaches its maximum at the midle value of the speed, but here the efficiency of the motor is still very small and the problem of heating still persists. The highest value of the efficiency is at 4000 RPM close to the maximum value of the speed. This could be a good operating point, but here both the torque and the power of the motor are rather small. There are also some mechanical constrains to be taken into consideration. The shaft speed of the DC motor is 4000 RPM. This corresponds about an 80 km/h speed of the vehicle if the shaft of the DC motor is connected directly to the shaft of wheel. At a such kind of speed the power need to drive the vehicle would be much higher than that DC motor could deliver, that's where the internal motor transmission comes into play.
View attachment 148187
and yes the Amflow is a Trail bike exactly like a Levo
