Deciding Factor for new eMTB

[Bigxmtb]

Hi new around here and a bit of an eMTB virgin.

Im sure there is millions of posts just like this one, but with so many options for eMTBs its a tough choice as its not a cheap choice to make. With that in mind my here is what im struggling with:

I have a few bikes I like but due to budget constraints there seems to be a trade off no matter which bike I go for. I wont say which brands and bikes im looking for just to keep it unbiased from makes and models.

Bike #1: Better front and rear sus, better tires as the difference but comes with the E8000.
Bike #2: Better brakes, option of an addon battery and comes with the more powerful bosch CX motor.

Both bikes have a 500WH battery and have great geometry thats suited to me.

About me im 6ft, a heavier rider than most and I live in an area with quite alot of climbing involved no matter which direction you go. To me it seems to come down to the motor and whether or not that extra power will make a big difference on the trails. Obviously on a standard MTB I would normally go for the better suspension. Hoping someone here can offer their opinion in hopes it helps me make a decision.

Thanks in advance

 

[Forever Wild]

Hi new around here and a bit of an eMTB virgin.

Im sure there is millions of posts just like this one, but with so many options for eMTBs its a tough choice as its not a cheap choice to make. With that in mind my here is what im struggling with:

I have a few bikes I like but due to budget constraints there seems to be a trade off no matter which bike I go for. I wont say which brands and bikes im looking for just to keep it unbiased from makes and models.

Bike #1: Better front and rear sus, better tires as the difference but comes with the E8000.
Bike #2: Better brakes, option of an addon battery and comes with the more powerful bosch CX motor.

Both bikes have a 500WH battery and have great geometry thats suited to me.

About me im 6ft, a heavier rider than most and I live in an area with quite alot of climbing involved no matter which direction you go. To me it seems to come down to the motor and whether or not that extra power will make a big difference on the trails. Obviously on a standard MTB I would normally go for the better suspension. Hoping someone here can offer their opinion in hopes it helps me make a decision.

Thanks in advance

Motor power is not the deciding factor In my opinion. If you’re a big rider like me, put a premium on suspension and brakes. EMTB tends to go faster both uphill and downhill. Suspension, tires and brakes take a beating. Worse if you’re a heavy rider.

 

[Wheelie_King]

I’m not sure many people will use the full power of their motor very often due to several factors including battery management and riding dynamics. I’ve dialled my Levo right down from factory settings for example. So might help simplify if you accept both motors sill do a good job for you.

I’d say battery capacity (or cost/ease of having a spare) is right up there to be considered against your fitness/weight/ride lengths and types. 500Wh whilst the most common do leave people with range anxiety and needing to carry spares. Conversely, 2 batteries at a trail centre - change at lunch works very well.

I’m on a 700Wh battery and can honestly say that for me I’d rarely want any more. The most I’ve used in one ride is about 70% of that. I think I’d be totally knackered by the time the 700 is empty!!! You could argue I’m carrying too much battery weight for the common shorter rides but I like the simplicity of one battery so don’t care.

 

[R120]

If you weigh more you will go through the battery quicker, so its battery range rather than motor power that becomes a factor - all the current motors are more than powerful enough, out on the trial its negligible between them in the real world. Its climbing that kills the batteries range, so if you are heavy and live somewhere where you will be climbing a lot, you will want a bigger battery, or ability to easily upgrade/ add another battery.

IMO frame material is irrelevant on an EMTB, so if one is carbon and the other alloy I wouldnt make that a factor.

I would try and buy a bike with decent suspension, or at least with suspension that you can easily upgrade the internals on. E.G if one bike has a RS Gold 35 fork, and the other a RS Yari, the gold you would have to buy a new fork to upgrade, whereas the Yari you can change the guts and make it a Lyric if you so choose.

Another factor you haven't mentioned is if the battery can be removed? If it cant, and you have no where to charge it where you keep the bike this is areal PITA.

 

[OldGoatMTB]

Another factor you haven't mentioned is if the battery can be removed? If it cant, and you have no where to charge it where you keep the bike this is areal PITA.

Perhaps. I thought this would be important, but since purchasing my bike I have only removed the battery once, and that was when it was brand new. I only charge every two or three rides so it’s easy enough just to roll in the house and lean it against the wall and put it on the timer while it charges.

 

[Bigxmtb]

If you weigh more you will go through the battery quicker, so its battery range rather than motor power that becomes a factor - all the current motors are more than powerful enough, out on the trial its negligible between them in the real world. Its climbing that kills the batteries range, so if you are heavy and live somewhere where you will be climbing a lot, you will want a bigger battery, or ability to easily upgrade/ add another battery.

IMO frame material is irrelevant on an EMTB, so if one is carbon and the other alloy I wouldnt make that a factor.

I would try and buy a bike with decent suspension, or at least with suspension that you can easily upgrade the internals on. E.G if one bike has a RS Gold 35 fork, and the other a RS Yari, the gold you would have to buy a new fork to upgrade, whereas the Yari you can change the guts and make it a Lyric if you so choose.

Another factor you haven't mentioned is if the battery can be removed? If it cant, and you have no where to charge it where you keep the bike this is areal PITA.

Both bikes the battery can be removed. I guess should also add, currently on my normal MTB the average ride is about 15miles, im assuming on an ebike might venture further not having to worry as much about the climbs towards to the end (that i usually die on). I know there is a variety of factors that affect battery but I assume both batteries would be able to get 15-20miles anyway?

Also stumbled upon a Scott Genius eRIDE 930 today as potential option but its comes with an X-fusion rear shock not a fox or rockshox. Has anyone had any experience with the xfusion?

What im really saying is, I still have no clue what to go for lol. Thanks for all the replies so far.

 

[R120]

Yes you would have enough range out the 500wh for that riding

 

[Forever Wild]

I would be totally exhausted if I tried to drain a 500wh battery. The real issue perhaps with a 500wh battery is as it ages its effective capacity degrades. I did not use battery size a deciding factor in my recent 2 emtb purchases.

 

[Bigxmtb]

Only took me a day to decide as the bike i originally wanted was back in stock in my size.

Just ordered the Giant Trance e+2 Pro not one of the bikes above but had a chance to ride the e+3 before and enjoyed it but was hard to find the e+2 or e+1 in size large, was sold out in all my lbs and alot of online shops too.

Regardless thanks for all help, hope this bike turns out awesome over long term.

 

[Wheelie_King]

Irrespective of the common sense big decision approach you have been through (like we all have), I’m sure you’ll love it and be inspired to ride like a kid again.
Post a reply to this thread once you’ve done a few rides and let us know what you think.
Enjoy!!

p.s. I’m 7-8 months into eMTB ownership and I’d say that while you’ll love having one, it may take a little while to get comfortable. Pinch flats on non-tubeless are a curse, and it takes a while to get used to the battery consumption / anxiety. Now that I’m used to mine I love it even more ?

 

[Tooks]

I see you’ve ordered your new bike now, and I’m sure you’ll love it!

The only thing I was going to add was that there’s a lot to be said for buying a bike locally, so that you’ve got backup/support should you need it.

The weakest part of most e-bikes seems to be the electric parts, a bit of a problem as that’s there reason for being, but being able to pop it back to a shop rather than have to post it off for an unknown amount of time is much more preferable for me.

 

[Loamranger]

Bigxmtb, bike fit and geometry is most important, buy a bike with enough reach. Seatpost angle should be steepish for better climbing. Head angle slack for better DH. At 6ft and big I would look for a bike with minimum 500mm reach. So that limits choice straight away.

 

[Bigxmtb]

Bigxmtb, bike fit and geometry is most important, buy a bike with enough reach. Seatpost angle should be steepish for better climbing. Head angle slack for better DH. At 6ft and big I would look for a bike with minimum 500mm reach. So that limits choice straight away.

Ye I kinda settled on the bike i did because its similar geometry to my standard mtb. So I agree but im a lil diff I think dont have the longest arms despite the height. so its a trade off usually.

Only have 4 days left till my bike is delivered week has gone so slowww