Crank bolt keeps loosening

Good Times

Member
Nov 8, 2019
101
84
Sydney Australia
Anyone else's right crank arm bolt keep coming loose? (Rail 7)

Mine does every single ride now.

Surprised it's not an interference fit (the crank arm), it comes right off. It seems like a design issue, and I'm not sure how to fix it. Open to suggestions!
 

Doomanic

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My left crank arm bolt came undone the other day after 400-odd miles. It’s a really odd feeling; I thought I’d bent the pedal axle at first! I did it up to the correct torque settings (not the easiest thing to do on a rotating shaft!) and it’s been ok so far. I also checked the right and it was tight enough to trigger the torque wrench.
 

Doomanic

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Are you doing it up to the correct torque setting? If yes, a small dab of thread lock might work.
Is there any play in the crank arm before you do the bolt up? If yes, the arm is fubar and needs to be replaced. The play as you pedal will act like a wrench and undo the bolt.
 

Good Times

Member
Nov 8, 2019
101
84
Sydney Australia
I’m surely doing it up as tight or more than the torque setting. I was going to threadlock it but when I pulled the screw out tonight it’s all fully greased. So I don’t think it would take.

The crank arm feels fine, I actually don’t notice it riding just back home I’ll go to spin the pedal with my hand and notice it then. Weird. But would love to work it out. I’m worried it will come right out one day on a ride.
 

Binhill1

🍊 Tango Man 🍊
Mar 7, 2019
3,265
5,055
Scotland
I’m surely doing it up as tight or more than the torque setting. I was going to threadlock it but when I pulled the screw out tonight it’s all fully greased. So I don’t think it would take.

The crank arm feels fine, I actually don’t notice it riding just back home I’ll go to spin the pedal with my hand and notice it then. Weird. But would love to work it out. I’m worried it will come right out one day on a ride.
I find tightening my crank you dont get a feel about it . It just stops dead if you know what i mean . My torque tool doesent go high enough it's never loosened though.
 

Akiwi

🐸 Kermit Elite 🐸
Feb 6, 2019
986
1,292
Olching, Germany
Bosch Motor?
I had to tighten mine the other day. I also thought my pedal bearings had crapped out on me. Right side.
Last year on my previous bike I completely lost the bolt that holds the Left pedal on at the top of an epic ride at Lake Garda in Italy. Searched for ages but couldn't find the bolt. It was just before we started the epic trails back down after doing about a 1500m climb in very hot conditions. I had to do it all with my weight on the right pedal, and the left foot just pushing inwards so the pedal and crank arm didn't fall off. I was well pissed off. Luckils it was easy to pick up a new bolt in Riva for about €2.00.
 

Binhill1

🍊 Tango Man 🍊
Mar 7, 2019
3,265
5,055
Scotland
Bosch Motor?
I had to tighten mine the other day. I also thought my pedal bearings had crapped out on me. Right side.
Last year on my previous bike I completely lost the bolt that holds the Left pedal on at the top of an epic ride at Lake Garda in Italy. Searched for ages but couldn't find the bolt. It was just before we started the epic trails back down after doing about a 1500m climb in very hot conditions. I had to do it all with my weight on the right pedal, and the left foot just pushing inwards so the pedal and crank arm didn't fall off. I was well pissed off. Luckils it was easy to pick up a new bolt in Riva for about €2.00.
Ah lake garden hired a non ebike there once dumped at top with van and down hill all the way through tunnel at the end brilliant
 

Akiwi

🐸 Kermit Elite 🐸
Feb 6, 2019
986
1,292
Olching, Germany
Ah lake garden hired a non ebike there once dumped at top with van and down hill all the way through tunnel at the end brilliant
Hmm, trying to work out where you would do a dropoff with a tunnel at the end. there are loads of tunnels, Tremalzo then from Pregasina through the tunnel instead of the trail perhaps? It was the Tremalzo trail well before Pregasina where I lost the bolt.
 

Binhill1

🍊 Tango Man 🍊
Mar 7, 2019
3,265
5,055
Scotland
Hmm, trying to work out where you would do a dropoff with a tunnel at the end. there are loads of tunnels, Tremalzo then from Pregasina through the tunnel instead of the trail perhaps? It was the Tremalzo trail well before Pregasina where I lost the bolt.
Tremalso rings a bell Tunnels and road in James Bond movie
 

WilkyWay

Active member
Dec 26, 2019
120
102
Durham UK
I’m surely doing it up as tight or more than the torque setting. I was going to threadlock it but when I pulled the screw out tonight it’s all fully greased. So I don’t think it would take.

The crank arm feels fine, I actually don’t notice it riding just back home I’ll go to spin the pedal with my hand and notice it then. Weird. But would love to work it out. I’m worried it will come right out one day on a ride.
i had to tighten mine and a was surprised how tight 30nm was when it was on the stand, ideally you need to have 3 arms, two to hold the torque wrench and one to hold the none drive side crank. I’ve only had the bike out once since I torqued it back up, 20 miles ish, and it’s not budged.
 

bbred

Member
Aug 15, 2018
52
23
Derbyshire
Anyone else's right crank arm bolt keep coming loose? (Rail 7)

Mine does every single ride now.

Surprised it's not an interference fit (the crank arm), it comes right off. It seems like a design issue, and I'm not sure how to fix it. Open to suggestions!

If you use these ( or the equallivant for your make) you can tighten your crank bolts and then screw these on the top of the bolts. The crank bolt does not tend to move when it has one of these on top pressing against it

Brand-X Self Extracting Square Taper Crank Bolts
Brand-X Self Extracting Square Taper Crank Bolts | Chain Reaction Cycles
 

Jon219

New Member
Hi guys, have a 2020 Trek Powerfly 7 HT myself, awesome bike as I use it as more a countryside mobility aid than anything else.

However I am also having the driven side loose cranking horrors, it's already had a replacement set under warranty and is going back to the shop tomorrow.

I do feel for the shop I take it to as it never came from them but if I could change that now I would.

I've had the bike since October 2019 and it's still under 150 miles, only just had the new Bosch upgrade and it's even better.

Love the bike to bits but its spending a bit to much down time at the moment.

The 1st time the crank was wobbling was the bolt was loose but this time I am unsure and going to let the shop identify the issue.

Hopefully get to the bottom of the issue.
 

Doug Stampfer

Well-known member
Jul 7, 2018
737
756
NZ
Ah so it's not just me then. Lost my LHS bolt during a knarly downhill & didn't want to put the arm back on so rode out with it in my pack. Had a look this morning & the crank arm has a few knicks inside it towards the inside of the arm where it has sat halfway on moving over the steel axle.
Tried the RHS one to see how tight it should have been & found it was finger tight & came out with a easy spin. Had look all over & found the mino link bolt very loose too. I had the bike put back together a few weeks ago with a request that they check everything so was a bit peeved but often things get overlooked & I was warned when I bought the bike that Emtbs get a hammering so you have to keep checking.
If it got overlooked during the service is one thing but I hope its not something I have to check each other ride.
 

urastus

⚡The Whippet⚡
May 4, 2020
1,548
995
Tasmania
I’m surely doing it up as tight or more than the torque setting. I was going to threadlock it but when I pulled the screw out tonight it’s all fully greased. So I don’t think it would take.

The crank arm feels fine, I actually don’t notice it riding just back home I’ll go to spin the pedal with my hand and notice it then. Weird. But would love to work it out. I’m worried it will come right out one day on a ride.
With grease on the threads there is much more force applied to the threads at the same torque setting! I'd try to clean it all out by twisting a small piece of rag soaked in petrol (wear gloves) through the threaded holes. Clean the bolts too. Keep using little bits of clean rag till they don't show grease any more. Same with the bolts. Then loctite when all dry.
 

Philly G

Well-known member
Jun 29, 2020
692
517
New Zealand
With grease on the threads there is much more force applied to the threads at the same torque setting!
Isn't that the whole point of greasing threads? The grease helps you reach the proper torque. Dry threads have too much friction and can trip the torque wrench before the proper torque at the bolt head has been reached. Loctite performs the same function as grease in that it helps reach the proper torque. Until it sets of course. My rule of thumb is to loctite the bolts that should have it, and grease all the others.
 

Blue Moon

Active member
Apr 17, 2019
135
183
North Manchester
Had my right hand crank bolt come loose a couple of weeks ago on my Rail 7 and also found the shaft and threads were full of grease. Cleaned it all off the threads, added some loctite thread lock and torqued it up. Done over 100 miles since and all seems good.
There are lots of creaks and groans from the “motor area” when pedalling under load, does anyone have any ideas how I can sort this?
 

urastus

⚡The Whippet⚡
May 4, 2020
1,548
995
Tasmania
Isn't that the whole point of greasing threads? The grease helps you reach the proper torque. Dry threads have too much friction and can trip the torque wrench before the proper torque at the bolt head has been reached. Loctite performs the same function as grease in that it helps reach the proper torque. Until it sets of course. My rule of thumb is to loctite the bolts that should have it, and grease all the others.
For sure. There's a bit of a theme going on here though with crank arms coming loose. The same thing is happening over in the shimano forum. I agree with you - I either lube or use loctite; with these I'd use loctite. I'm also going to clean the ends of the crank shaft and crank arms and use some contact adhesive. I used to do that with square taper cranks - I could always get them off, but they never came loose. You can actually over tighten using grease at the same torque setting! I did with teflon tape on a car sump - I kept breaking the fibre washers with minimal effort. Now I just snug them. I imagine you could actually strip a thread esp in aluminium.
 

Philly G

Well-known member
Jun 29, 2020
692
517
New Zealand
For sure. There's a bit of a theme going on here though with crank arms coming loose. The same thing is happening over in the shimano forum. I agree with you - I either lube or use loctite; with these I'd use loctite. I'm also going to clean the ends of the crank shaft and crank arms and use some contact adhesive. I used to do that with square taper cranks - I could always get them off, but they never came loose.
I torqued mine up good, but after reading this thread I'm going to check them again sooner rather than later. If I find them loose I'll do the same, Clean them off and apply loctite instead of grease.
 

Binhill1

🍊 Tango Man 🍊
Mar 7, 2019
3,265
5,055
Scotland
I torqued mine up good, but after reading this thread I'm going to check them again sooner rather than later. If I find them loose I'll do the same, Clean them off and apply loctite instead of grease.
Must be something wrong somewhere, never had issues like that can't see why e bike should be any different from an ordinary bike. Heard of problems on ordinary bikes as well with that , never had a problem and I pedal strike as much as anyone if doing technical stuff. Never heard of torque values before ebikes came on go . I'm not really mechanical but mtb since 86 hopefully I've picked up something along the way.
 

Doomanic

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My left hand (non-drive side) crank arm came loose today. That's the second time in 1100 miles. I'll be having a chat with my LBS about it next week. It definitely rocks on the axle now so it's fucked. :mad:
 

urastus

⚡The Whippet⚡
May 4, 2020
1,548
995
Tasmania
Isn't that the whole point of greasing threads? The grease helps you reach the proper torque. Dry threads have too much friction and can trip the torque wrench before the proper torque at the bolt head has been reached. Loctite performs the same function as grease in that it helps reach the proper torque. Until it sets of course. My rule of thumb is to loctite the bolts that should have it, and grease all the others.
For sure, that's the theory. Use grease and a greater force is applied to the threads. Don't use grease and less force is applied to the threads. Both these examples would show the same torque setting on your tool. As I found with the teflon tape though, you can easily apply too much force, despite what the torque wrench is telling you. Threads, especially in aluminium, have limits too.
 

malo

Member
Dec 9, 2021
5
4
Austin
Does anyone know the part# or how to purchase a replacement bolt for the Left side crank bolt on a Trek Rail 7 ? I lost both the bolt and the outer ring (dust cover). Thanks for any info!

I found this link to a bolt on Trek's website. Ordered it today and will let everyone if it works:

 
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Mikerb

E*POWAH Elite World Champion
May 16, 2019
6,569
5,060
Weymouth
Assuming there is no damage to the spindle or crank arm loctite should not be required. The torque setting is however very specific and needs to be accurate so it is beneficial to ensure everything is spotlessly clean and a little grease applied to both the bolt threads and the spindle. The recommended torque is very specific because there is only a very marginal taper on the inner section of the spindle, but the splined section of the spindle has ramped stops. The crank arm has to be hard up against those stops and then the correct torque applied. Both under and over torque will lead to the crank bolt loosening. One way to ensure the correct torque is to torque up the crank bolt twice...ie torque up and then loosen the bolt....then torque up again. Loctite ( blue) will do no harm however you cannot use both grease and loctite and grease provides better lubrication and is more likely to enable the correct torque to be applied. It also provides better corrosion protection.
 

urastus

⚡The Whippet⚡
May 4, 2020
1,548
995
Tasmania
more likely to enable the correct torque to be applied
If you use grease, you're actually applying a lot more torque to the threads. I often wondered about this - where are the torque values measured? Lubricated or not lubricated?

Loctite when wet is also a lubricant. Crank arm bolts seem to be a trouble spot - I torque and use loctite on clean threads. If these bolts do come loose there will be some damage and wear to the splines in the crank arms - it will be a future weakness and probably come loose again due to small movement. Prevention as usual is the better choice. Loose crank bolts have been a theme for many owners, even on new bikes; are they all due to poor work? At the least, there isn't much of a margin for less than perfect workmanship, for some, it seems, there has been no margin regardless of workmanship.
 
Last edited:

Mikerb

E*POWAH Elite World Champion
May 16, 2019
6,569
5,060
Weymouth
If you use grease, you're actually applying a lot more torque to the threads. I often wondered about this - where are the torque values measured? Lubricated or not lubricated?

Loctite when wet is also a lubricant. Crank arm bolts seem to be a trouble spot - I torque and use loctite on clean threads. If these bolts do come loose there will be some damage and wear to the splines in the crank arms - it will be a future weakness and probably come loose again due to small movement. Prevention as usual is the better choice. Loose crank bolts have been a theme for many owners, even on new bikes; are they all due to poor work? At the least, there isn't much of a margin for less than perfect workmanship, for some, it seems, there has been no margin regardless of workmanship.
the torque value relates to the thread pitch, bolt size, and bolt material. The engineering specification is tabled and primarilly sets a figure where the greatest friction is achieved between male and female thread faces whilst staying within the shear limits for that bolt size and material. Lubricating a fixing ensures the friction along its complete length does not lead to a false ( usually under) torque being applied. When the correct torque is applied the grease is displaced in the mating faces of the male and female thread but remains in place above those faces providing some protection against corrosion etc.
Applying a torque seal to the bolt is fine as long as the crank arm has firmly abutted the ramp at the end of the splines and then forced marginally up that ramp by the correct torque. If that is not the case the torque seal on the bolt may prevent the bolt falling out but will not stop the crank arm moving on the splines eventually causing damage. A creeking noise from the crank is typical of that scenario.
 

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