Levo Gen 2 Crank arm stuck after bolt removal?

[MrSimmo]

Hi all,

I'm trying to take off the cranks from my Levo (2020), I've removed the bolt using an 8mm hex but the crank arms wont pull off. As the only thing behind the arms is the flimsy motor cover, there's not a lot to use as a lever.

Does anyone know if there is a trick to getting them off when they're stuck?


Cheers

 

[Zimmerframe]

They normally just wind off (with some effort sometimes) with the self extracting crank bolts.

Have you swapped out the cranks for something none standard which don't have self extracting bolts ??

Or they're the wrong size self extracting bolts ?(ISIS)

If that's the case, try it with the old self extracting bolts.

Otherwise, you're going to have to do something like this :

 

[MrSimmo]

Thanks Zimmer, you've got me thinking, I've fitted E13 arms to it; maybe they need a special tool!

 

[MrSimmo]

Yup im being dumb! Forgot all about needing the Parktool CCP-44!

 

[Mikerb]

Yup im being dumb! Forgot all about needing the Parktool CCP-44!

any universal crank puller will do the job............usually at 25% the cost of the CCP-44

 

[MrSimmo]

any universal crank puller will do the job............usually at 25% the cost of the CCP-44

Yup, I've got a CCP-44 but it turns out I can't use it with the pedals on as the cranks are too short (160mm), it doesn't rotate fully! Ended up using the budget one I had from a very old multi tool set which worked a treat

Trying to take the DMR Vaults off was another matter though... ended up snapping a Chrome Moly Steel socket and allen key (even after soaking with WD40 and Gas plus) so they're not going anywhere! I think I'll be servicing them on the crank! I'd put a liberal amount of grease on the splines when fitting as well.

 

[MrSimmo]

You are turning them the right way ??

Unfortunately, they don't have the flats on, so you can't use a spanner instead. I had something similar, but I can't remember how I got them off now.

Yup, although I did have to check 5 times as I kept forgetting!!

I thought about heating them, but not sure if that will help as I think both the axle and the cranks are alloy. When it comes to pedal servicing time, I might just waste a whole can of WD40 into a bowl and soak the arm/pedal for a week! It'll probably destroy all the rubber seals but they'll be replaced anyhow!

 

[Barbara_Reed]

Yup, although I did have to check 5 times as I kept forgetting!!

I thought about heating them, but not sure if that will help as I think both the axle and the cranks are alloy. When it comes to pedal servicing time, I might just waste a whole can of WD40 into a bowl and soak the arm/pedal for a week! It'll probably destroy all the rubber seals but they'll be replaced anyhow!

Could try oil from a can....

 

[MrSimmo]

Could try oil from a can....

Probably better than the spray

 

[Mikerb]

Obviously they self tighten in use so can be a swine to shift but shock is the best way to loosen them. Tackling them whilst the cranks are off the bike is best. Then you need a good engineers vice with soft jaws, a hex socket and t bar..................and a hammer! Allowing WD40 to soak in for 24 hours beforehand also helps. If you are tempted to use heat it is the end of the crank that it best to heat whilst doing whatever you can to apply a heat sink to the pedal axle.

If all else fails use an Impact Driver

ps because you need to use a hex on the inside of the crank it is best to view the crank/pedal from the pedal side so you do not get confused a bout which direction to undo!!

 

[MrSimmo]

Obviously they self tighten in use so can be a swine to shift but shock is the best way to loosen them. Tackling them whilst the cranks are off the bike is best. Then you need a good engineers vice with soft jaws, a hex socket and t bar..................and a hammer! Allowing WD40 to soak in for 24 hours beforehand also helps. If you are tempted to use heat it is the end of the crank that it best to heat whilst doing whatever you can to apply a heat sink to the pedal axle.

If all else fails use an Impact Driver

ps because you need to use a hex on the inside of the crank it is best to view the crank/pedal from the pedal side so you do not get confused a bout which direction to undo!!

Cheers Mike, will give it a try