Clicking feeling when pedaling and motor on

[KuRi]

Today I noticed something new. I started feeling something like a "clicking" or "pulse" on my footpegs when pedaling and with the motor on (it goes 100% smooth with the motor off), but it is not always there. If I start feeling the clicking and I stop and start pedaling again it dissapears. This means it happens only with some "pedal engagements"... but happens no matter the gear or the motor assistance.

It could be bearings somewhere (pedals, motor, ...) but it is a new motor (only 900km) and not sure how can I explain this to the LBS to check it, because it happens only 1/10 of the pedaling time.

Fathom E+2 Pro - Syncdrive pro motor

Thanks!

 

[andyb2]

I sort of get this when very lightly putting pressure on the pedals. I just assumed that it was the motor applying more power than needed then backing off.

 

[DrStupid]

Check that it's not chain-suck on the front chain ring.

Some chain rings don't get on well with some chains. I had one new chainring from amazon that was very greedy when it came to letting go of the chain.

Also a worn out chain ring often doesn't want to release the chain as the teeth start acting like little hooks.

 

[KuRi]

Thanks for your comments! Could this be happening and not noticeable with motor off?

 

[DrStupid]

? maybe. As load is applied it could change position of the chain (clocking) on a worn out chain ring?

You will have to start ruling out possible causes... this a easy one to rule out.

 

[DrStupid]

Is your chainring OEM? How many miles?

Have you recently changed any driveline stuff like cassette or chain?

 

[KuRi]

The chainring is oem (praxis wave 36t). 4000km. Yes, I have recently changed cassette and chain (900km ago).

 

[DrStupid]

Ok. I would at least try a chainring. Mine (picture above) went bad on the second cassette, there abouts.

Are the teeth showing a "hook" effect?

 

[KuRi]

Hi! I attach a picture here, I think it is in a pretty good status. I usually replace chain before it can damage the chainring. I replaced the cassette to fit an 11-40 one, not because it was damaged

 

[DrStupid]

Looks almost new. Did you flip it?

 

[KuRi]

No, I only removed a couple of times to clean it. I rode 4000km+ of all mountain and some very hard uphill with it but I clean all the system very often and replaced chain every 1000km. I like to think that it helped

I never thought of flipping it... and I don't think is a good idea, right?

 

[DrStupid]

It looked as though it was flipped based on a few of the wear-marks.

Chain suck is pretty easy to see once you start looking.

 

[DrStupid]

No, I only removed a couple of times to clean it. I rode 4000km+ of all mountain and some very hard uphill with it but I clean all the system very often and replaced chain every 1000km. I like to think that it helped

I never thought of flipping it... and I don't think is a good idea, right?

Turning the chain ring around is mentioned in several threads, sometimes this is to move the offset, and sometimes to increase lifespan.

I have not flipped one on any of my bikes, but I have replaced a few.

One of the rings I bought new was very bad, noisy. I replaced it with another and all was good.

 

[KuRi]

Now that you mention it... it looks like the wear is on the opposite side of the teeth! how is this even possible?

 

[Bearing Man]

Today I noticed something new. I started feeling something like a "clicking" or "pulse" on my footpegs when pedaling and with the motor on (it goes 100% smooth with the motor off), but it is not always there. If I start feeling the clicking and I stop and start pedaling again it dissapears. This means it happens only with some "pedal engagements"... but happens no matter the gear or the motor assistance.

It could be bearings somewhere (pedals, motor, ...) but it is a new motor (only 900km) and not sure how can I explain this to the LBS to check it, because it happens only 1/10 of the pedaling time.

Fathom E+2 Pro - Syncdrive pro motor

Thanks!

Don't forget when the motor is on you can be applying over 300% extra power, so whats quiet when the motor is off is usually something that needs to be put under greater load to make the noise.
Also worth remembering that 99% of what goes on in the motor, is doing it at a different speed to your pedals, so if you have a click every pedal revolution for example, the motor may have turned many times.

When people bring their bikes to us with a clicking sound or feeling it is nearly always one of the following:
Loose motor bolts
Loose chainring to spider bolts
lose or worn crankarms
Damaged or worn cassette
Loose spokes
Suspension pivot bolts or bearings
Rear shock pivot bearings
Rear wheel spindle/axle bolt
seat post creaking
Pedal bearing failing
etc.

When I say loose, it could be tight, but just not tight enough.

Hope you find it

 

[JensO]

Don't forget when the motor is on you can be applying over 300% extra power, so whats quiet when the motor is off is usually something that needs to be put under greater load to make the noise.
Also worth remembering that 99% of what goes on in the motor, is doing it at a different speed to your pedals, so if you have a click every pedal revolution for example, the motor may have turned many times.

When people bring their bikes to us with a clicking sound or feeling it is nearly always one of the following:
Loose motor bolts
Loose chainring to spider bolts
lose or worn crankarms
Damaged or worn cassette
Loose spokes
Suspension pivot bolts or bearings
Rear shock pivot bearings
Rear wheel spindle/axle bolt
seat post creaking
Pedal bearing failing
etc.

When I say loose, it could be tight, but just not tight enough.

Hope you find it

Hello folks,
maby also a Bearing(s) in the hub freewheel faulty. I already had this in the past

regards
Jens

 

[KuRi]

Hello folks,
maby also a Bearing(s) in the hub freewheel faulty. I already had this in the past

regards
Jens

Do you mean the freehub of the wheel or of the motor?

 

[Bearing Man]

Do you mean the freehub of the wheel or of the motor?

The freehub is the thing that the cassette fits onto to allow freewheeling when not pedaling (the thing that makes all the clicking at the back of the bike). When these start to fail the bearings can collapse and or the ratchet and pawl system inside it starts to slip or make creaking, cracking noises. Remove your chain from the rear cassette and spin it backwards with your fingers and wobble it from side to side and then rock the cassette back and forth to see if the pawls are engaging the ratchet cleanly.

 

[KuRi]

Thanks for the info, very helpful. I have been told that there is another freehub mechanism inside the motor, for the same purpose.

In my case I bought a pair of new wheels (29) recently and the problem persist, so it is not the wheel freehub