CHAINS! ?

[Pike]

It's probably been discussed before, but hey I'm new, so...

My chain is phucked. I've done 93miles!!

Surely that can't be right?

I've a Haibike allmtn 2, running Yamaha motor, with 10x2 chain rings;
On a local ride yesterday it threw the chain off the ring on motor overrun, 1st time on a tasty downhill, so I thought it was just bounce, second time was on a flat ish section. Also it's so stretched it won't change front rings, it just bends
Checked the chain and it's gone ?

Having a look at the Haibike specs it seems it's a kmc x10 chain, (brand new) now as far a I know that's not an e bike chain.

3 questions,
What chain would I replace it with? And where best to get from at reasonable cost (im in Nottingham, uk.
What mileage should I be expecting
As this one has not lasted, should I return it?

Thanks in advance ?

 

[Kingfisher]

What derailer? shimano Xt/Slx? Is the clutch on?

Switch to a narrow/wide sprocket?

First ebike? On an ebike you really need to think about your shifting. A motor puts a lot of strain on a chain.

 

[steve_sordy]

I'm on my first emtb and I read all the threads about chain life being really short. The key is to change gear just like you used to do on a clockwork bike, ie with mechanical sympathy! No crash shifts under full power, ease off momentarily and so forth.
One thing I picked up on here was when climbing and you get into the situation where you need to change to an easier gear but you are already at full stretch and don't want to lose momentum by backing off to change gear. Try this: Increase the power by one mode until you gain the speed to enable a smooth shift, then drop back on the power. No crash shifts, no banging and crashing to stress the drive train. Smoothness is the key.

I have just checked my 11-speed chain and I got 0.33% at 575 miles. That is better than what I used to get with 10-speed on my clockwork bikes.

 

[Pike]

An update...

I've had the bike in the work stand, and checked everything and found a likely cause of my ailments,

The front sprockets are loose. Specifically the left hand thread splined nut that holds the sprockets onto the motor has come undone. I've had the crank arm off and re tightened it all up (now I need another tool I've not come across yet)
Now it shifts properly again, and hopefully it it won't throw itself off.

I've checked the chain with a park tools chain checker (my other is a cheap one out a bike repair set) and it's just over 0.5 (0.75 is new chain time according to the tool) so it's not buggered yet, but I've checked a brand new chain I've just put on another bike and it says the same on the tool so I think that's normal chain stretch after a few rides.

It is my first e bike, and I see what you mean by the gear change, you have to do a pronounced back off of pressure on the pedals as you change gear to get a lovely smooth gear change before engaging power again, lots of learning to do I'm sure!

 

[Gary]

What chain would I replace it with? And where best to get from at reasonable cost (im in Nottingham, uk.
whatever sram 10speed chain is highest in the series and under £15 any of the big online retailers (higher the number after the PC10 in the product code the better quality the materials used).

What mileage should I be expecting
1000miles easily. 2000+ if looked after and regularly cleaned/lubed properly and you continue to ease off while shifting.
Depends on terrain ridden and how well/badly you treat it (eg. bad shifting poor cleaning/lubing etc. will shorten its life)
My last Emtb chain had covered over 1800miles and was still running smoothly on the original cassette when i got rid of the bike in April of this year.
My current Emtb has done 1000miles since the middle of April and its original chain is not worn anymore than yours.

As suggested above getting rid of your front derrailleur and shifter completely and switching to a single 32t narrow wide chainring upfront should reduce both chain wear from shifting along with the chance of damaging your chain from it dropping/jamming. there's really little need for most Emtbs to have 2 chainrings upfront. Maybe consider it when your drivetrain does need replacing further down the line.

 

[Pike]

I liked the idea of 2x10 as it gave more range of gears for climbing, but I've never been into the 'granny' ring anyway, that's 32t (the setup is 32/44) would a 38t be a compromise? I'll check my other normal bike which is a 1x11 and see what that's runs upfront, I've been very happy with that setup over the past few years.
I suppose that would also allow me to put a decent bash guard on as well

 

[Gary]

34T is pretty standard for a FS Emtb with a shimano motor (ie. normal 104mm BCD chainring)..
32t is pretty standard for a non emtb with 11speed cassette.

44 is massive for off road use. (but would be nice on a derestricted commuter)

WC DH race bikes generally only run 36 or 38T at most

 

[Pike]

Perhaps I’ll look at a 36 or 34 tooth then, out on a big ride tomorrow, so I’ll try riding in the smaller ring and see if I’m undergeared at all

 

[Gary]

if it's 4 bolt 104mm there are plenty good alu NW rings on ebay (32-38t) for around £8 posted from the UK. There should be no need for a bashring though you'll probably need shorter chainring bolts.

 

[33red]

I have an Haibike with a smilar transmission, no reason to change a thing. I just use the 44 pedaling to the trails and back and the 32 in the woods. It is heavier so a small gear is nice.