Chain ring advice please

[EMTBSEAN]

I have just under 2000 miles on my bike and I’m not sure if my chain ring is in need of changing, I have looked at pictures of brand new ones and I can’t see any difference really, I clean my transmission every time I come back from a ride and I clean and lube the chain meticulously too, I don’t know how I’ve done it but my cassette is still the original from new but I’m going to change it as it’s showing slight signs of wear, anyway I have taken a picture of my chain ring to see what you all think, oh another thing, I’m having trouble locating a Sram chain ring for my Whyte e-150rs, anyone know something I don’t please

 

[steve_sordy]

At 2000 miles you have had your money's worth out of your transmission. The chainring looks fine to me. I would keep doing what you are doing and do not change anything. But keep an eye on chain wear. How worn is your chain by the way?

 

[Rahr85]

i'd double check what chain ring you have.

This is what i got for when i replace the cassette on my e180. Don't forget the tool to remove the chainring..

SRAM X-SYNC 2 Eagle E-Bike Direct Mount chainring 1x12 for Bosch Perf, 14,50 €

SRAM X-SYNC 2 Eagle E-Bike Direct Mount Chainring 1x12 for Bosch Performance Line CX engines 2020 The SRAM X-Sync 2 chainring has been specially developed f

r2-bike.com

I've done just short of 1000 miles now but when i replace the cassette the chainring will be getting replaced as it is cheap enough and i'd rather they wear as evenly as possible.

 

[Jackware]

You don't mention why you are considering the change apart from the mileage, are you having issues with the chain slipping or difficulty changing gear?

 

[Mikerb]

If it is all still working ok then leave the cassette/chain/chainwheel. As soon as you start experiencing any problems change all 3. No harm getting the 3 items in the toolbox ready.

SRAM Eagle X-SYNC 2 Direct Mount Chainring - for Bosch E-Bike Drivetrains - 34 Teeth (bike24.com)

 

[Mikerb]

I put a new cassette and new chain on with an original chainring. It worked OK but was noisy. You could feel how rough the chain was running in the chainring. I changed the chainring after one ride like that and it made the the complete transmission smooth as .....

 

[EMTBSEAN]

At 2000 miles you have had your money's worth out of your transmission. The chainring looks fine to me. I would keep doing what you are doing and do not change anything. But keep an eye on chain wear. How worn is your chain by the way?

Hi Steve and thanks for your advice mate, my chain has only done just over 300 miles and it’s a Sram XX1, it’s hardly stretched at all which is why I bought it, I’ve already bought a new cassette which should be here in a few days, I bought it from Amazon, best price for a genuine Sram 11-50t PG 1230 NX so I’m happy about that

 

[EMTBSEAN]

You don't mention why you are considering the change apart from the mileage, are you having issues with the chain slipping or difficulty changing gear?

some of the teeth are a little bit more worn than I’m happy with so I thought better safe than sorry

 

[Nick790]

I’d like to swap mine to a 36t, but can’t find anyone with them in stock?

 

[Jackware]

I’d like to swap mine to a 36t, but can’t find anyone with them in stock?

Amazon?

I'm only going by the version @Rahr85 posted though;

 

[raymal]

I’d like to swap mine to a 36t, but can’t find anyone with them in stock?

Just bought a Race Face 36t from Tredz with no problem

 

[EMTBSEAN]

If it is all still working ok then leave the cassette/chain/chainwheel. As soon as you start experiencing any problems change all 3. No harm getting the 3 items in the toolbox ready.

SRAM Eagle X-SYNC 2 Direct Mount Chainring - for Bosch E-Bike Drivetrains - 34 Teeth (bike24.com)

i’ve requested a quote for shipping and they won’t ship to the UK so it looks like I’m gonna buy the chain ring recommended by Rhar85

 

[EMTBSEAN]

Apart from the different in size, what’s the difference between the 34t and the 36t chain ring, I was gonna fit the standard 34t chain ring but if there’s a definite benefit to the bigger one then I’ll fit one of those instead, sorry for not thanking everyone for all the help but thanks guys ?

 

[Mikerb]

2 teeth

The bigger the chainwheel the higher your gear ratio is in each gear of the cassette. People often opt for a bigger chainwheel on a 1 x system if the gear ratio when in the smallest cassette cog is still not high enough for them ( or if they hack the motor and can go faster but still with pedal assist).

 

[Jackware]

You may need to check you've got another inch of slack in the existing chain / derailleur movement.

 

[EMTBSEAN]

2 teeth

The bigger the chainwheel the higher your gear ratio is in each gear of the cassette. People often opt for a bigger chainwheel on a 1 x system if the gear ratio when in the smallest cassette cog is still not high enough for them ( or if they hack the motor and can go faster but still with pedal assist).

thanks for explaining that mate ?

 

[EMTBSEAN]

You may need to check you've got another inch of slack in the existing chain / derailleur movement.

thanks for pointing that out to me mate, I didn’t give that a second thought, if my chain was old and stretched out I might have bought a 36t chain ring and a new chain at the same time but my chain is only around 300 miles so I’m gonna keep it stock with the original 34t chain ring, thanks ?

 

[Nick790]

I seriously struggle spinning the lowest gear in a steep climb, I can only think it’s fitted to get you out of trouble if your batteries flat. Im considering going up to to 36t. Anyone done it?

 

[EMTBSEAN]

If you go up to 36t you’ll struggle even more based on the information earlier in this post as it increases the gear ratio, I must admit after posting this I might be tempted to go up to 36t but only when my chain needs changing as the present one may not be long enough

 

[Mikerb]

Even with 0.75 wear it will not be long enough. It probably requires 2 extra links compared to your existing chain length.

 

[Nick790]

If you go up to 36t you’ll struggle even more based on the information earlier in this post as it increases the gear ratio, I must admit after posting this I might be tempted to go up to 36t but only when my chain needs changing as the present one may not be long enough

When I say a struggle, I mean it’s to low geared. My legs can’t keep up.

 

[EMTBSEAN]

When I say a struggle, I mean it’s to low geared. My legs can’t keep up.

fair enough mate I get what you’re saying ?

 

[raymal]

fair enough mate I get what you’re saying ?

I've just gone from 34t to 36t and no problem with chain length; the difference in gear ratio is minimal, in my opinion. The only word of warning I'd offer is to check on the gap you have between chainstay and chainring as it's pretty close on mine now with the new chainring (Pivot Shuttle)

 

[Beezerk]

Silly question alert.
If you fit a different sized front chainring could the bike think it has been chipped and will throw up an error?
In my head I get the rear wheel spinning at a different speed depending on how big the front chainring is and could get spotted by the software.
My head hurts when I think about it too much though ?

 

[Nick790]

Silly question alert.
If you fit a different sized front chainring could the bike think it has been chipped and will throw up an error?
In my head I get the rear wheel spinning at a different speed depending on how big the front chainring is and could get spotted by the software.
My head hurts when I think about it too much though ?

I would think it only monitors the final speed. It’s no difference than changing up on the rear mech.

 

[Beezerk]

I would think it only monitors the final speed. It’s no difference than changing up on the rear mech.

Right, thanks mate.
I was wondering if it monitored the cadence as well and needed the two to match up.

 

[steve_sordy]

@Beezerk What @raymal has done with his front ring (36t instead of a 34t) is less than a 6% difference. An average gap between cassette gears is 15%. So as he says, a minimal change.

Many riders have been fitting shorter crank arms which also changes the overall gearing, all without any bad effects from the motor. Going from 170mm to 160mm for example has exactly the same effect on overall gear ratio as fitting a 36t instead of a 34t. They both make achieving the same speed 5.88% harder, although I believe that it may feel quite different.

 

[Beezerk]

I realise I now I've absolutely thick as fuck, the bike doesn't know what gear you are in ??

 

[steve_sordy]

I realise I now I've absolutely thick as fuck, the bike doesn't know what gear you are in ??

But I'm sure that it still loves you.

 

[Penttithefinn]

I seriously struggle spinning the lowest gear in a steep climb, I can only think it’s fitted to get you out of trouble if your batteries flat. Im considering going up to to 36t. Anyone done it?

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