Brose 1.3 motor vs Brose 1.2E motor

[Bearing Man]

Great to hear from you. Thanks for the feedback, glad to get to know the electronics are robust and no sign of heat damage, that sort of puts my mind at ease. Do you by chance know what temp the belt can sustain?

How busy are you at the moment? I think I should get you to do the Brose upgrade and weather proofing on my 1.3 before I throw it in the hard tail

I have seen belt damage due to heat, but this is normally because they have been fitted dry. What heat they can sustain, I don't know yet. As an EMTB forum legend, I am sure we can fit you in any time.

 

[Wiltshire Warrior]

@bearingman are you able to tweak my 1.2e in your work shop so that it becomes a 1.2?

 

[Bearing Man]

@bearingman are you able to tweak my 1.2e in your work shop so that it becomes a 1.2?

We could turn it into a 1.2 or even a 1.3 if you wanted, but it's not that easy. The electric motors armature must be changed with the ECU to get a matched magnet angle for the 3 phase motor. This means removing the armature and planet gears and swapping these too. 1.3 would need the deeper stator too. All a bit more than a tweak unfortunately.

 

[Wiltshire Warrior]

We could turn it into a 1.2 or even a 1.3 if you wanted, but it's not that easy. The electric motors armature must be changed with the ECU to get a matched magnet angle for the 3 phase motor. This means removing the armature and planet gears and swapping these too. 1.3 would need the deeper stator too. All a bit more than a tweak unfortunately.

PS my Bosch motor is still working great after you did the bearings on the cover.

 

[Bearing Man]

Ok would it be easier for me to just buy a 1.3 motor from you!?!?

PS my Bosch motor is still working great after you did the bearings on the cover.

Good to hear about the Bosch ? I will drop you an email regards your other question

 

[Kiwi in Wales]

Hi all,
Not sure if any of you guys use Blevo but it supplies you with all the info (and much, much more) that you have been talking about In the above posts. Motor temp, Battery temp, Motor Power measured in Watts, and loads of other geeky measurements for the entire ride which you can view after your ride on your phone. If you want even more detail like Current draw measured in Amps, you can download the CSV output file that has an output measurement for every second of the ride that you can easily download and ‘geek’ over. I don’t know how accurate the info from Blevo is but I guess it will be within + or - 10% or better?

From the data I have the gathered from the 1.2 engine in my newly acquired secondhand 2019 Levo HT on ‘Turbo‘ mode I consistently get outputs of between 580 to 601 Watts of peak power with a Current draw of 15.2 to 15.4 Amps. Motor temp will go over 50 degrees centigrade if consistently climbing on ‘Turbo’ but so far I have never seen it go over 55 degrees. Also, I have noticed it is very economical even on ‘Turbo’ with a 400 Wh battery and if you flip it to ‘Trail’ mode or ‘ Eco‘ it is of course even better. The thing that I ‘really’ noticed is how quiet the motor is compared to any of the 2.1 and 2.2 engines.

My Comp Carbon 2019 Levo FS with the allegedly ‘improved’ replacement 2.2 engine on ‘Turbo’ mode consistently outputs between 710 to 723 Watts of peak power with a Current draw of 19.0 to 19.2 Amps. Now the next bit is interesting as it could be due to the carbon frame not being the best at heat dissipation. Heat definitely increases on these engines. On ‘Trail’ mode if you are continuously climbing it will creep up to nearly 60 degrees. On ‘Turbo‘ mode I have seen it exceed 70 degrees which is why I have asked @PaoloBLEvo if he could add motor temperature to the voice alerts on Blevo so I can back off if it starts to hit a scary motor temp as I carry my phone in my body armour so I can’t see the display.

The question I have for @Specialized Rider Care is what is an acceptable motor temp and what temp range should we be trying to keep within? Is this possibly a reason why some motors have been failing and are still failing? I do not know what damage a consistent 70+ degrees will do to an engine or belt so your feedback or anyone else that knows about heat limitations on electric engines in ebikes would be much appreciated.

Maybe the heat output is not so high on the engines in the aluminium frames with the 2.1 or 2.2 engines in them but I do not have one to give you the feedback on. It would be good if someone who has Blevo and an Ali framed 2019, 2020 or 2021 could do some testing and feedback their numbers to compare?

I have a 1.3 engine which I purchased from Berks cycles a couple of years ago as a spare which I am going to drop into the HT to see what the temps are like continuously climbing on Turbo mode. I can only presume it is going to rinse the 400 Watt battery in just over half an hour as I know I measured the 1.3 engines output when I first got it and it was putting out figures of 740 to 750 Watts and a Current draw of 20 to 20.1 Amps.

Anyway, hope the above info helps and I will feedback what I capture on the 1.3

@Specialized Rider Care are you able to respond to my question please?

The question I have for @Specialized Rider Care is what is an acceptable motor temp and what temp range should we be trying to keep within? Is this possibly a reason why some motors have been failing and are still failing? I do not know what damage a consistent 70+ degrees will do to an engine or belt so your feedback or anyone else that knows about heat limitations on electric engines in ebikes would be much appreciated.

 

[Highgate hill]

Hi, I'm also trying to find out the difference between 1.2 and 1.2e
On the Spech' site it talks about same hardware different software!
From that I would think it's the same motor just tuned for economy!
Anyone know?
Thanks
Jerry.

 

[Bearing Man]

Hi, I'm also trying to find out the difference between 1.2 and 1.2e
On the Spech' site it talks about same hardware different software!
From that I would think it's the same motor just tuned for economy!
Anyone know?
Thanks
Jerry.

The motor 1.2e motor is identical to the 1.2 but set to 50Nm power output for extra battery mileage. The 1.2 outputs 70Nm. This is not reprogrammable or resettable by Specialized. They are bought direct from Brose like this.

 

[Zimmerframe]

The motor 1.2e motor is identical to the 1.2 but set to 50Nm power output for extra battery mileage.

And to reduce the problems which they had from heat issues with that motor when it was set to 70nm for some riders. The lower power effectively eliminated the reliability problems from heat just with a minor change.

Primarily, it was to address the heat reliability problem. But it's easier to market that as an improvement - "Efficiency".

 

[jlcortex]

Does anyone have a damaged Brose 1.2E or 1.3 that they want to sell?

I have a project to remove the current brose controller board and design a board that only contains the connectors of the motor phases hall sensors motors and nothing else with the aim of installing an external controller, a VESC

But my brose motor is perfect and I would like to buy a broken one if there are any

 

[Bearing Man]

Does anyone have a damaged Brose 1.2E or 1.3 that they want to sell?

I have a project to remove the current brose controller board and design a board that only contains the connectors of the motor phases hall sensors motors and nothing else with the aim of installing an external controller, a VESC

But my brose motor is perfect and I would like to buy a broken one if there are any

Drop me an email jlcortex, I am sure we can help. [email protected]

 

[CrashBurnFly]

All you need to know about the various motor versions is here

https://ibd.specialized.com/media/pdf/Specialized%20Motor%20Overview%20and%20Comparison_final.pdf

So is 50 Nm enough ... ? The 1.2E with 50Nm is more than enough grunt on a 2019 Kenevo to take you up a very steep climb such as going up the side of the South Downs - a 300ft climb in 0.5 mile in 3 gears up from the lowest gear without getting puffed and I am 6ft 5 and 110kg. On Turbo (max assistance) 50Nm is more than enough to spin the rear wheel on slippery steep stuff with a Mary on the back and often I have to drop the assistance level or too much wheel spin.